Bradford CC Lorry (The Tramp)

[AlanBartlett]

I've started on the assembly of the engine for Tramp. And about to tackle the dreaded ring gapping. Following the Bradford guide on here. Can anyone tell me what the piston ring gap should be? It says in the guide about 3 - 5 thou. Is there any other information on this area?

[Keith Clements]

Read and comprehend.
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tec ... -ring-gaps

There are MINIMUM and MAXIMUM ring gap specifications,which must be observed for the best performance of a new ring set.

Minimum gap tolerances must be observed in order to prevent the ring ends from butting together as the ring expands when the engine approaches operating temperature. Hastings recommends a MINIMUM of .0035 gap per inch of cylinder diameter.

Any increase in the diameter of the cylinder is being used in, over the designated size, results in an increase of approximately .003" in ring gap for each .001" increase in cylinder diameter.

In order to check ring gap, the rings should be placed at the lowest possible part of the cylinder (below ring travel area) as this is the portion of the cylinder that is unworn and which the ring is sized for. Checking ring gap in the worn portion of the cylinder will show a gap increase in direct relation to the amount of cylinder wear present.

A MAXIMUM of .003" wear per inch of cylinder diameter, not to exceed .012" in any case for successful reringing. If a cylinder is worn in excess of this it should be rebored and the proper oversize ring installed. Checking ring gaps can give an approximation of cylinder wear as well as keep you from installing wrong sized rings for the application being rerung.

And make sure you use a good ring compressor and expander. It is all too easy to break a ring.

[AlanBartlett]

Thanks Keith, a chat with my local engineer, cleared it up for me.

Onto the next query. Just about to fit the fly wheel. Putting back what came off. Though the rear bearing cover has changed. The Thrust washers (The two half moon shaped bits which sit in the rear cover) appear to tighten up on the fly wheel. My guess is there are either different thicknesses? Shims are mentioned in the spares list. But not sure how shimming it out would help if its already tight when doing up the fly wheel. Do the washers go level with the top of the rear bearing cover? I'm going to find the others that I have and have a measure up.

[Keith Clements]

No doubt some Others can contribute. The crankshaft requires some end float or play so the thrust washers control this. White metal bearings or washers can be lapped in to fit. Make sure you clean off any grinding paste used to lap.

[AlanBartlett]

A quick update video from a few weeks ago, I have few more to upload. So watch this space. Having finally received the correct paperwork. Proper road testing is imminent.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J1bqMqJF83k" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1bqMqJF83k

[Keith Clements]

Thanks Alan. Your youtube clip was followed by disasters on dynos....

[AlanBartlett]

Well 4 years & 6 months after Tramp arrived on a trailer. I and friend attended a Classic Pub night, the first proper outing for the Bradford. Still lots to do, but made it under its own steam and no hiccups. Perhaps the birds provided the luck! Even chasing 50mph at one point. Lots to sort out with steering and brakes along with tyres. But it felt good to be out on road. I have few more videos to upload of driving around the compound over the last few weeks.

[ian Howell]

Alan: -

Well Done!

When I rebuilt my Bradford back in 1963/4 both the steering and the brakes were 'different'.

However, by the time it went for the MoT the brakes were VERY effective (as long as the vehicle was empty) but I think the steering always was questionable - even from new.

I found the technique was to point the steering wheel towards the required line and when the car followed, turn a bit further. Repeat until you are going where you want to!

ps Is there a lesson to be learned (by me at least) with regard to your distributor drive? Was there any previous indication of a problem?

Us Pre-wars need to know!

Regards, Ian H

[AlanBartlett]

Ian,

The journey back from Harrogate I gather. It was the drive gears of both distributor & dynamo which caused the car to be stranded. I think what had happened is the pin holding the distributor drive had worked loose. It is something I haven't checked. Which in turn was moving the gear which then wore away the teeth of the dynamo gear. Sadly nothing I could do at the road side, a side of flat teeth where it had just come into contact in the wrong place. I think just one of those things. There was no indication to anything going wrong other than the fart, pop & bang when we ground to halt. Two new gears from Jcs & away it went again, even improving performance. Its amazing how much damage or improvement those two drive gears can do.

[k. rogers]

Well done Alan - it's a real credit to you! Can't wait to see it again now it's running. Now what's this about 'birds'? Is this the feathered variety or have you struck lucky?!!

[AlanBartlett]

The birds! Can't you tell from the luck white splats all over the panels? Bloomin things nesting at the unit! Its supposed to be good luck?

[k. rogers]

Oh, I see! Don't know what's worse - the birds or the morning dew!!!

[ian Howell]

Alan: -

I wonder if / hope that you intend to retain that irreplaceable patina that is at last being recognised as confirmation of a working life well lived?

Sadly my car was too far gone to retain much that showed (bodywork and interior) but I did make strenuous efforts to retain, repair or source, original mechanical parts wherever possible.

I have noticed quite a few 'barn finds' at shows recently. This is also encouraging in that it proves that there are still 'finds' to be made. Amazing!

[AlanBartlett]

Aha. Yes Ian, the patina is staying, Still working on a way to protect it. All the panel work which has been welded I've tried hard to make the repairs not stand out too much. The brushed over matt black seems to have blended well with the rest of it.

Having mainly driven it up and down the village, it was quite a different experience jumping in The Lady yesterday for an afternoon drive.

[AmilcarJohn]

I used to have a 1920 Hupmobile in similar condition. I found the best way to enhance/preserve the paintwork was to brush with black shoe polish and then buff with a lint-free cloth. It also works on surface rust and can build a patina rather like the barrel of a gun.

Any normal car polish/ brasso/ furniture wax dries in the imperfections and shows white. Lots of people suggest spraying with WD40 and wiping clean with a rag. That can work, but tends to become a hazard to clothes and also attracts dust.