with those interested in the cars from Bradford, England. If you want to post on this forum you need to register. The site uses cookies and uses security certificates when you are logged in.
Well after a little under two years since posting here perhaps its time I posted a little update.
Work on the Tramp had slowed down to an almost stop over the past couple of years, having been busy with car shows with The Lady (1934 Long Saloon) dancing, and just general lack on interest. Not much progress has been made. But having got back from a holiday back in October i decided it was time to pull my finger out and get back on with it! So over the past few months I have been getting stuck back into it, making things, wiring up things and just generally putting more things back together so here are a few photos of progress.
Let there be light!
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
I have been tackling the brakes today, having read most of the other topics about the brakes on here, and the diagrams about the rods and lengths.
My question is how many springs are on the brake cross shaft? I know there is one spring from the chassis to the pedal arm, but I think I remember when taking apart the brakes there was one which fell apart from the chassis to the actual cross shaft? There is a loop off the chassis which I can only assume is where it connects, but where does it attach to the cross shaft?
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used). From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis) From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987) From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on) From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black. Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013.
Would anyone know the thread size on the brakes adjusters for the bolts which hold the adjusters to the back plate? They are not bsf. Or don't appear to be.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
Hi Alan
I removed one from a spare CC axle that I have and checked it, to my surprise its 5/16" UNF, there is a bit of a clue in that he head size is 1/2"AF (or 13mm if you don't have AF spanners.)
Prior to 1949 it would have been known as NF. Presumably Girling were also supplying brake systems to the US and Canada as well at the time hence the use of this thread form.
Its quite possible that the thread tapped in the expander units is also of the Unified series, as they have studs screwed in, most probably UNC as its into aluminum.
Whitworth and UNC use the same Threads Per Inch for diameters up to but not including 1/2", its easy to wind a Whitworth in thinking its just a bit tight, the difference being that the Whitworth form is 55 deg and the UNF/UNC is 60 deg
Thanks for that Steve, I managed to find some on ebay just before Christmas. Although I do take a trip over to a local fasterner company which has a nice selection of the olders sizes, the festive traffic made it impossible to get to!
I'm just in the process of sorting out engine bits again. Of the 5 crankcases I have with the lorry, only one seems to have not inherited the crack in the front main bearing housing. (Was/is this a problem with them) Although I am a little concerned that there seems to be a few cases with bit of casing which seems to have worn away near the oil pump drive (The connecting rod from the camshaft to the oil pump) Is this a common thing? Is there anything else I should be looking out for with the crank case?
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
I was wondering if anyone knew if the back plates were interchangeable on a Cc engine. Ive have been reading up on the engine facts. And read up about the mains on later engines not needing line boring. That being said does this mean that each crankcase and back plate are paired? Though it does list them at seperate parts in the parts book? I have a good crank case, but not back cover plate for it. Does anyone have any information on this? Many thanks in advance.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
A few photos of updates after a busy few months of pulling my finger out & getting on with things
Also a question about the windscreen rubber. Has anyone fitted one of the new ones? Does the rubber bend around, or should it be cut and glued to fit the right angle to get around the sharp corner? I have the original rubber which is still intact, though it does seem to bend around the corner without a join in it. I was wondering what would look best with the shape of the windscreen surround.
Last edited by AlanBartlett on Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
Well its has been a while since posting. Progress is going well, and at present I find myself with half an engine to build. Awaiting boring of the barrels for the new pistons. Can you believe it is fast approaching 4 years since he arrived?
So today I have been mocking things together to make sure all goes together well when I do the final build. I have a question and a diagram of something I am stuck with.
The camshaft end float. I have been reading the pdf guide online about the feeler gauge gap. Which I currently have is 6thou between the bearing and the oil drive gear. Which is more than the 2thou recommended. All that movement is I imagine going to make quite a noise when properly assembled. With the gear flush against the shoulder of the cam. How would I decrease this gap. Is fitting shims an option?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
Hi Alan,
it's a while since I had machining done on the camshaft from the Kingfisher, but I remember having the same problem and yes, I would imagine too much clearance will give a knock on tickover. Shimming is one answer but I felt that in that situation it wasn't good as the shim would be rotating with the cam and could eventually break up. In the end I had the bearing end of the cam machined to facilitate the required gap - mine ended up with 1 thou. I would need to see your cam assembly to explain what I mean, but are you able to bring it to Tedburn on 18th?
Machining does sound like the option to go for, like you the thoughts of a shim spinning around against the right end float may cause for a headache down the line.
To machine down the end of the bearing on the cam end that the gear sits to bring it closer to make the 2thou clearance.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
Hi Alan. The cam that came out of mine during the rebuild had about 25 thou end float as I remember and the noise was pretty impressive! A very heavy knock that sounded like a loose flywheel to me and quite alarming. I don't think it was the right cam for the engine and I replaced it with a bradford cam and bearing, as suggested by Tony and others. I can't remember the clearance I ended up with, but I think it was over 2 thou - maybe 4-6?? I needed to get the engine in quite quickly and as I'm planning to replace the timing sprockets at some stage, I figured I'd sort it at the same time, if needed. As it is, it seems fine.
I pondered shimming it, but wasn't happy with the thought of using a shim only a couple of thou thick, as it might be a bit flimsy. My thought was it might be better to machine down the face of the gear to actually increase the size of the gap, then use a thicker shim to bring it down to 2 thou again - if that makes sense.
Hi all.
You're correct about the knocking noise if the cam end float is too great.
Somewhere on these pages I related that in the past I investigated such a noise. Took a little bit of time, but the culprit was a too-thin split pin through the castle nut on the front end of the shaft. The nut loosened off a bit on its own, and that allowed the gap to widen a few thou. Nipping the nut up and using the correct split pin worked wonders.
Tony.
