Jupiter restorations.

[David Kemp]

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[David Kemp]

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[David Kemp]

These are a few items I cleaned up so my daughter had something to paint. The petrol tank straps were very corroded but still solid. A good soaking in molasses made all the difference , the end bolts now swivel as intended.
The uni yokes cleaned up very well , for a before please view my latest video on you tube.
https://youtu.be/Ys2cqC7PNJc

[Forumadmin]

Your question about removal of midship bearing may have been lost in subsequent posts. I do not think it is a particularly tight fit having yesterday put one on a Javelin shaft. I would have thought a bearing puller or some other puller would work.

[David Kemp]

Has anyone got a source or part number for the universal joints. Mine would probably clean up , but I would rather just get new ones.

[Forumadmin]

Worth getting new ones. They wear out quite quickly. I suggest the club would have them. Powertune RJUJ101 MGB/Midget/Mini
http://www.psautoparts-store.co.uk/inde ... uct_id=305

For all bearings I go to Simply. Here is a list
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3752&p=20988&hilit=midship#p20988

[David Kemp]

Thank you I thought they would be a common uni, as hardy spicer seems to have made r
the yokes.

[David Kemp]

Hate to sound silly but how do you get the steering rack out of the chassis? From what I can see you need to take the tie rods off the pinion side & slide it out the chassis holes, is there any trick to remove the tie rod ends as mine refuse to move, left hand thread maybe? This is a left hand drive car. I need the rack out for inspection , & to be able to media blast then paint chassis . So I can start reassembly.

[Srenner]

Great progress David!
The steering arms come off at the end of the rack.
A large washer is folded over where the ball end socket nut (part 970 in the Jup parts diagram, page 44) is threaded into the steering rack ball housing (part 3065). These can be quite awkward to separate. Then remove the three compression screws. One end of the chassis mount is slotted and one wiggles the rack out. Procedure is outlined in the adjustment section in the Jup specific part of the workshop manual.

As for the tie rod end, don't forget to undo the clamp bolt on the steering arm!?!? The threads are normal and should come loose when the clamp is undone. Never had one stick, although turning the bastard can be a challenge. A spanner fits the square on the bottom of the shaft, but that disappears up into the steering arm before the threads cease engagement in the arm.

Have fun!
Scott

[David Kemp]

Thanks, Had a friend over, who is an ex-mechanic. He said "this is odd, but easy", and after a lot of grunts, groans & the odd undecipherable Hungarian word, he managed to get it apart.

[David Kemp]

Any hints on how to remove the torsion bar adjusters from the chassis?

[Forumadmin]

Assuming you have torsion bar out, you need to undo the very large thin nut forward of the adjuster. This is wired in.
There is a washer below it and this holds the rubber shock absorbing cylinder in place. (Replacement is VW part in plastic.)
You will need to fabricate a puller to extract this.
Read this
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4003

[David Kemp]

Thanks, it is how I guessed, I just prefer to ask than risk breaking 60 year old parts.

[dougie]

I am only a few kilometres away David.
I am here to help you and you only need to ask mate!

[David Kemp]

I am about to start reassembly of my Jupiter, beginning from the rear & working forward.
I have bought new rubber cones for the rear torsion bars. Should I lubricate them with rubber grease? Leave them dry?
Any suggestion regards best way to re insert & set up the rear end would be appreciated.
Finally oil leaked out of the weld holes that hold the axle tubes to the diff housing, is this cause for concern?