Jupiter restorations.

[David Kemp]

Hi this is one of my Jupiter projects chassis SA715, To gain encouragement & hopefully help others a few of us will be trying to work on our cars & supporting one another.
If you have a Jupiter project please post photos of it here with the occasional update or lack of progress, sometimes with others pressure we all work better.

[Keith Clements]

Hi David,
Keep us informed of progress. The Great SCrebuild topicshould give you a lot to chew on.

[markymar93]

I'll try and post a pic of my Jupiter project shortly. I am looking for another as well if anyone knows of one. Condition not an issue more so an interesting history.

[David Kemp]

Thanks it would be nice to see others projects. Where are you based? I ask as most Jupiter projects seem to be in the North America.

[markymar93]

I'm in West Sussex. The car is being restored in Hampshire

[Srenner]

Hey David:

715 looks pretty good sitting in your shed! I first picked it up 25 years ago, so don't wait another 25 to get things done, get on it!

Cheers
Scott

[chapman]

Dear Restorers don't forget o send me a story and pictures for By Jupiter, everyone wants to know about restoration projects
Tom Chapman Editor
tbc1937@gmail.com.
07818593017

[David Kemp]

Hi Scott I hope it does not take 25 years.
My kids are now saying please hurry up & restore it. Rather than take it to dump. The change came , when I showed them pictures of restored Jupiters , yours included!
They particularly loved A turquoise green car , My ambition to paint 715 original red or Jaguar blue has now been over ridden it will be turquoise green!
Other good news as Richard has given me 2 engines & gearboxes, meaning I now have power plants for both my cars.
The more I probe 715 the happier I get it is a good solid chassis & body.

[David Kemp]

I have no floor in my car, does anyone have a picture or diagram of the layout? Particularly where it joins toe board & around the battery boxes?

[Forumadmin]

The floor has to be made to fit around each A post so as to slide it in. It runs in line with the front edge of the cross member between the two A posts. I will photo that and behind the seat in my SA but please realise that bits have been taken out to accomodate the overdrive. The original was crude in that it just followed the perimeter with two rectangles cut out for the battery covers. There is also the hole about 1.5inch diameter for the battery cable. Many people have done much better carpentry to provide proper wooden covers for the battery/spares or valuables box (if you only have one 12v battery).

[Andrew Henshall]

Hi David,

I made a replacement floor out of 1/2" marine ply for E1SA433R using my original floor as a pattern. The original was badly affected by wood borer, although think I still have it in storage!

I discovered that the original floor did not fit my car particularly well, and so I added extra material here and there. It is a very complex shape but I can take measurements & email them to you with photos because it is currently out of the car. I've checked my restoration notes and the floor is made to these overall figures:

Width inside A-pillars: 1204 mm
Width inside B-pillars: 1232 mm
Overall length (front to rear at longest point) 1172 mm

Of course, there is no guarantee that a floor made to my dimensions will fit your Jupiter! There are so many differences between individual cars, and besides, my body frame has had both inner & outer sills replaced (both sides), the footwells replaced, the firewall replaced, A-pillars moved to make the doors fit, both battery boxes replaced, etc, etc.

One factor I didn't expect to encounter was that I was unable to jiggle my new floor into the passenger compartment because it was too big! I had to remove some material in order to get it to clear the obstruction on its way down into place!

Best regards,

Andrew

[David Kemp]

Thanks guys any photo of the floor in place & the battery box covers, would be appreciated.
Laurie I must come & look at your car, you have gone through what I am attempting .
Could you post a few pictures here for the Jupiter fraternity?

[Srenner]

Hello David:

Getting another floor is, at best, a guide to fitting yours. Several times I have used a large cardboard sheet and fitted it to one side of the floor using the threaded fasteners in the body work to hold the cardboard, then added the other side and lastly fastening the two halves together to make a template. This allows a little wiggle room for the little variances that exist just on your car from side to side.

Per Andrew's comments, overall the front is slightly narrower than the b-post. The wood extends just to the forward edge of the floor joist that has the 5 threaded fasteners across the width of the car. Also, you may find that a small notch is required where the a-pillar meets the floor joist. A notch here allows the door sill edge of the floor to reach both vertical steel seams of the pillars without leaving a gap. Also remember that the door sill/carpet finisher rail will hide the edge of the floor at the door openings. The rest of the floor follows the outline of the cockpit as defined by the 1" flange that has the threaded fasteners. The wood goes right up to the edge of the battery boxes and across the small sheet metal arch that begins the propshaft hump, so pretty much a straight line from one box to the other. You might see a vertical gap where the floor edge meets the hump, but that's correct.

Installing the one-piece floor involves inserting it almost vertically, angling the leading edge farthest from you just short of it's final position, sort of like trying to balance the wood on the opposite front edge from your rear edge, then lowering and wiggling the floor into position. Easiest with the steering wheel off and IIRC, done from the side opposite the steering wheel.

Removing the floor is done by prying up or pushing from underneath, a rear corner such that the rear is slightly higher on that side, sloping both down towards the front and towards the other side. Wiggle the floor backwards and up, increasing the angle, trying to get the front edge clear of the a-pillar.

A pretty tightly fitting floor can be had with a little patience. The best fit will be difficult to get in or out and just at the last movement, snicks into place.

Have fun!
Scott

[David Kemp]

Thanks can some one show mw what the battery box covers look like & how the battery leads are routed,
I can;t think of a tidy way to do it.

[David Kemp]

I have made a floor , which will go in once my daughter has painted it. I would rather wait till she can do it ,as this encourages youth interest. My next question is , what thread were the floor bolts? I ask as I want to buy a tap & die set to clean up the threads before even attempting to put a bolt in, I am guessing they were counter sunk machine screws the same as my old Bradfords. My memory says they were BSF but time is starting to cloud my memory. Any help would be appreciated.