Jupiter restorations.

[David Kemp]

I have separated the body & chassis, The chassis is extremely good, I may now clean it by hand then paint it.

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[Srenner]

Good job! Be sure to consider adding a brace where the small engine support chassis tubes enter the larger diameter chassis tube. I have seen (welded in as support) everything from a thick flat strap bent to match the step to an elegant "funnel" shape tapering the large tube to the smaller tube. Better to do it now than find out the motor can fall out!
Cheers,
Scott

[David Kemp]

Could you please post a picture or diagram of how you have modified your front tubes.

[Forumadmin]

The aim is to strengthen the joint between the small tube at the front and the wider rear chassis tube that tends to break often after a jump over a hump back bridge (or any rut on an outback road) where the engine puts strain on the joint. Knowing that a welder can put suitable fillets into the joint. But please note you need stainless steel filler rods otherwise the joint will be brittle.
I made a strut from stainless 2mm sheet curved to meet the front tube and upright tube making sure they do not foul the engine. Note the right side is more difficult as the cylinder is further back.

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Alternatively you could put some angle underneath, as Jowett did to strengthen the main chassis tubes.

[Srenner]

Okay, I give up. 30 mins of trying to get the photo to enlarge.. It's in the Gallery under 715 rust repair, mod to 114 chassis..

[Keith Clements]

click on the image to view

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This was expanded using CTRL + in the browser and then the snipping tool captured the area desired. Unfortunately the original is low res and pixelated.

[dougie]

Good work David. It looks like you are realy getting on with it.
Brian and I are here to help you any time,just ask.
I live at Morayfield now so that isn't far away.
Cheers.
Doug Rath

[David Kemp]

Thanks Doug, your help will be appreciated. At the moment I am helping my daughter restore her Grandads Honda trike, she has a real love for it. Looking at it , I thought a lot of Jowetts, this trike has not been used for a good decade. The oil was a black goo, it took many flushes before the oil was clear. After that it stopped smoking & ran better. The lesson to Jowett owners is change your oil once a year even if you don't use it.
Oil does degrade, & turns good engines into smokey old bombs!

[David Kemp]

The link below films the body coming off the chassis of 715. My thanks to everyone who helped.
The final lift I did with a chain hoist, not the grunt & groan method, most certainly the better way is with the chain block. No backs were hurt in this production!

https://youtu.be/1BKvz4c-m0A

[Forumadmin]

Great to see all the extras. I hope they all remember where everything goes back! It is worth labelling everything. Hopefully they will not be as old as Amy was when she eventually saw her car put back together having seen it taken apart when she was 3.

Also it would be sensible to weld ( or otherwise securely fix) some supporting struts between the door openings and across between the B posts ( seat back) so as to maintain the fit of the door. It is quite difficult to get the door fit correct as both the chassis and body flex. Judicious adjustment of the body mountings is necessary with the chassis supported by the wheels. Make sure you do the fit of the doors before painting.

In most cases it is worth taking the aluminium panels off the steel frame by drilling out the rivets so as to neutralise any corrosion and patch up any corroded flanges. Corrosion is usually at the bottom of the B posts and back bottom of bonnet.

[Andrew Henshall]

Hi David,

I concur with Keith's recommendation about securing the door openings on the body frame. For E1SA433R, I made up 4 brackets to bolt 2 identical length (but handed) rigid struts (one each side) between the upper door hinge mount and the door latch mount, and fitted them prior to welding the body frame to a heavy steel body-aligner frame. We then cut out the inner & outer sills (both sides) and both footwells & most of the firewall, leaving just the scuttle, & cross-members with A & B pillars attached! Once all the serious structural repairs were complete and the body frame rigid again, only then did I take the struts out of the door openings. The doors were then fitted and the gaps checked and adjustments made. My body frame is already painted, sitting on a temporary frame, & ready to fit back onto the restored chassis.

Cheers,

Andrew

[M S G Benning]

[quote="Srenner"] I have seen (welded in as support) everything from a thick flat strap bent to match the step to an elegant "funnel" shape tapering the large tube to the smaller tube.
If you go down the route of the funnel, can you advise the dimensions - i.e. respective diameters/circumference & length?
Thanks
Steph

[Keith Clements]

Hi Steph,
You really need to work it out on the car. As you can hopefully see from the pictures I posted you are aiming to provide support across the 90 degree joint down to the smaller tube. You are limited to providing clearance with the engine where I would leave at least 5mm to account for engine movement and mounting sag.

You could cut a vertical fillet out of 3mm thick piece of flat stainless but I chose to bend the flat stainless into a slight curve so that it provided more of a joint to the tube. Essentially the stress is more distributed around the tube than would be with a flat section.

[Srenner]

The fabricator used a slip roller and then hammer fitted the "cone" shape to fit the OD of the 3" and 2" tubes. TIG welded in place. That car is now in the UK and I hope will be taken to JCC and JOAC events.

KC is correct about leaving clearance for the block. The fabricator "forgot" the admonition, but we got lucky on the fit.

Cheers,
Scott

[David Kemp]

How do you remove the midship bearing , from the drive shaft? Nut & flange were no problem, I don't want to risk any damage if possible.