1936 Jowett in Germany restore

[Chris Spencer]

Hi Marcel - Very happy Christmas to you too

I think your German 'Kunstharz lack' - is a base coat colour that is applied (the colour is of a matt apperance) then an acrylic lacquer is applied over the top of it and it becomes a high gloss finish

Cellouse paint is a old system - the paint colour is thick which is then thinned to enable it to be sprayed - the vapour of the thinners then evaporates to air leaving the paint on the panelwork - it requires a lot of detailed & methodical preperation to otain the correct results

[1936xxMarcelK]

Best wishes to you in the new Jear 2013!
That all youres wishes come true !!

greetings from Gschwend
Marcel

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello,
I´m ready with welding the frame. Soon i want to take the frame to sandblase and spray-galvanize.

I have washed my engine with fat solvent, too
and want to give it to a engine specialist. He has asked me, what spares are on the marked. for example cylinder head gasket.
Can anybody give me a answer?

Thank you for answers
Kind reguards
Marcel

[1936xxMarcelK]

Haven´t nobody a adress for replacement parts?, or maybe spares for me?
Today i brought my engine to a mechanic man and he made troubel about the parts.
The starter motor and the dynamo must be analyse,
Are there such spares in good condition?

Greetings

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Marcel.

I think, as I have said before, that you will need to contact JowettCar Spares as they are part of the Jowett Car Club and have a lot of spare parts.

The address is in the Jowetteer magazine, and you should send a list of which parts you need to them by post if you can not contact them by telephone.

You will have to remember that your car was made more than 70 years ago, and that parts for it, even in England are difficult to find.

The Spares Department is open only between 19.00 and 21.00 hours (U.K. time) on a Monday night, so a letter may be the best way of asking if they have what you need.

All the staff are unpaid volunteers.

Best wishes, Tony.

[Chris Spencer]

Marcel - If it makes it easier for you with the language barrier / translation - please send me a list of what you may require and I will talk to Jowett Car Spares on your behalf

Regards Chris

[Forumadmin]

Jowett Car Spares is accessible via email and responses are usually prompt. However, answers still take until Monday when all the team meet.

Try michaeldko'at'hotmail.com or Michael D Koch-Osborne via the JowettTalk members list or Private Message or 'Spares' via http://jowett.org/requests.php

All these are better than snail mail!

Note that parts books are available in the JowettGallery to identify items exactly.

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Marcel.

I apologise that I did not know about the email connection to Jowett Car Club Spares:-

http://jowett.org/requests.php

I'm surprised that it is not listed in their advert in the Jowetteer magazine, as we are a global Club.

I hope it works for you.

Tony.

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello,
thank you for answering!
in the moment i put a list of car spares, i need.

News: the motor is running the first time on saturday. I´m happy!
What oil I need and how much?
The oil filter is in the near of the oil pump, where the oil pipe for the oil pressure comes out of motor, is that right?

Best greetings from Gschwend
Marcel

[Keith Clements]

Marcel, good news about the motor. I will let those familiar with the engine to answer where the oil filter is. Can you get 'Classic' motor oils in Germany? These are non-synthetic and do not have additives which might attack bronze bearings. The recommended oil for summer was Castrol XL which was a straight SAE 30 oil , rather than multigrade. But today a 20w-50 multigrade is best; but I will let the pre-war guys answer properly. The recommended oil in winter was Castrol CW which seems to be still available http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiple ... Id=7001024. But a multigrade will save you changing oils!

The 1936 Maintenance Manual is in the Gallery TOPIC here.

The lubrication system is here and here is an explanation in the 1931 driver\'s handbook.

You need to register on the Gallery to see these.

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Marcel,

Keith's just beaten me to it, but he knows much more about adding links than I do, but I attach a scan showing a photograph of the engine, which relates to the diagram showing the path of the oil around the engine.

As you will see, the pump is at the front of the engine, the oil filter is on the left of the engine (looking forward) and the pressure release valve is at the back of the engine, and this includes the oil pipe to the pressure gauge.

The brass oil filter has 'top' stamped on the external plate. Keep this to the top when refitting or the oil will not pass through.

If you have to remove the oil pump, then gentle warming of the surrounding aluminium will help.

I use a multigrade oil in my pre-war cars and have not had a problem.

The 'Pre-war' section of JowettTalk has much information on restoring a pre-war car. Alan Bartlett has done it with his father's car, so you can use the search facility to help answer many questions.

scan0003.jpg

Regards,

Tony

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello,
Thank you for giving useful informations. links and the picture!

I have fulled `mineral´ 15W40 in the motor until the oil dipstick was comming out the half track, its ok? I fulled ca. 2 liters in.
How much is the exactly filling capacity in liters?
next, i let the oil out of motor and clean the oilfilter
I think i don´t have to remove the oil pump, it seems to work good, the oil pressure manometer shows full presure (on oil pressure manometer shows 50).
Where is the air filter? probably in the little room bevore the carburetor (also the same component as the carburetor)?

The rest of my Jowett makes good progress,
- the frame is ready welded (with reinforcement for the porter)
- the carpentry has made a few wood work.

soon I want to make a few photos and show here in the forum.

Kind reguards
Marcel

[Tony Fearn]

Marcel,

The engine takes 4.5 UK pints (2.56 litres), and the sump is full when the indicator wire stops rising.

There should always be at least 1.5cm of indicator wire showing.

There should be no need to remove the oil pump. It is difficult to do so.

The oil pressure when cold seems ok. When driving the car, or when increasing the revolutions of the engine, the normal range of oil pressure should be between 25 and 30 on the Jowett oil gauge, when the oil is warm.

The pressure can be altered by using the pressure release valve (PRV on the oil diagram in the Gallery that Keith linked)), screwing it in or out as necessary. I have attached a drawing of part of the PRV to show the inside of the central part.

scan0018.jpg

There is no air filter on the carburettor. The aluminium 'elephant's ear' with a sliding plate each side is the choke which cuts off the air for cold starting.

We are all looking forward to the photographs of your progress.

Tony.

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello Tony.
You said:

There should always be at least 1.5cm of indicator wire showing.

I don´t really understand. Would you explain precisely it for me?

Thank you

[george garside]

Marcel, your engine has 2 oil filler caps, one is the pipe just in front of the offside (steering column side) cylinder which is probably best ignored. The normal oil filler cap is the brass one on the top of the timing case near to the petrol pump. Next to this is a narrow tube with a brass cap on it, When you unscrew the little cap a wire should rise up to indicate the oil level. AS Tony has said to fill to caorrect level pour oil in until the wire stops rising. To check the level undcrew the cap and maake sure that the wire is rising byprobably the amount Tony specified.

The oil filler in front of the cylinder is probably because at some time in its history the crankcase on your engine has been replaced using one from a Jowett industrial or tractor engine as the one on top of the timing case would have been difficult to reach in that instalation.

george