COOLANT PUMP REPAIR

[Leo Bolter]

Tonight, whilst "cruising" around "The Gallery", I happened on this pic of Tim Neville's:

https://jowettnet/forum/download/file.p ... &mode=view

. . and I thought "Oh, the old corrosion, allowing the thermostat to pop out problem, eh"?

The problem reminded me of a temporary fix I did, which is still in use about 15 years later!!

What I'd done, when there's not enough groove depth for the stainless steel welding wire circlip to hold the thermostat and rubber ring in place (water pressure can dislodge all of this!) is as follows:

PROCEDURE
1/ Procure 3 x 1/8" Monel or Stainless Steel countersink headed pop rivets about 3/8" long (this length is from memory . . it would pay to check!) and drive the "nails" out of them.

2/ Leave the sealing ring out of the housing, but put the thermostat in place.

3/ Carefully measure the depth from three approximately equidistant good places on the external edge of the orifice down to the thermostat body at the aforementioned places and mark these places on the edge of the "rim".

4/ Deduct 1/16" from that measurement.

5/ Scribe the new measurement on the outside of the housing (on the surface where the radiator hose goes).

6/ Accurately centre punch the scribed mark.

7/ Remove the thermostat.

8/ With a 1/16' pilot drill, drill right through at the punch marks from the outside to the inside.

9/ Open the pilot holes out to 1/8".

10/ At the holes, carefully countersink the outside surface of the pump body with the correct angle to suit the rivet heads and just deep enough so the heads lay flush with the surface.

ASSEMBLY
1/ Put the thermostat into the housing with no gasket (when in use, insignificant quantity of coolant will leak past).

2/ Push in the 3 pop rivets to hold the thermostat in place.

3/ Slide the radiator hose (with RTV Rubber Gasket smeared sparingly inside) into position being sure that the rivets are well covered. Care will be required as the hose slides over the rivet heads!

4/ Try to ensure the radiator hose clamping hoseclip is positioned over the rivets if at all possible.

RESULT
An effective repair . . and the thermostat will never pop out of place and jam sideways in the hose!

Cheers, Leo

[Forumadmin]

I do the same regarding the holes but make four, then use stainless wire across the holes such that this holds the ring in place. Much better than the circlip. Just make sure the wire does not foul the opening of the stat.

[Leo Bolter]

Look what I just found in my archives . . . .




I'm sorry about the text being so small . . . this is as large a picture as I can use (the forum system will not allow me to upload a bigger image . . . and fair enough too!)

Here's the text:
Drill 3 equidistant countersunk 1/8" holes in the waterpump alloy at a suitable distance from the remains of the thermostat flange. These holes will take 3 countersunk headed stainless steel "pop" rivets, with their riveting pins driven out (and not "popped" of course). These "retainers" will be held in place when the hose is fitted and they in turn will retain the thermostat.

In the spirit of the Olympics, I must say . . . . "our women's hockey team was ROBBED, by the Brits!" But it was a great game to watch!

Especially so when using the nice new digital tuner on my iMac . . What clarity. (The very best of gear is being used at the Olympics, and of course the iMac is a pretty fair performer too). The close-ups are so revealing . . . perhaps too revealing! Every pore and pimple is on show to Zillions of people around the world!

Not much Jowett work being done in the wokshop in the evenings these days . .

Cheers, Leo

[Tim Neville]

An excellent idea for a fix. I had actually seen the illustration before.
I have contemplated boring out the casting, shouldering it, and forming an internal thread to accommodate a new housing insert turned from brass.
I accept that a newer pump might be easier, but my whole philosophy at the moment is to keep the car as original as possible.

Reply better late than never, eh?