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Hi guys.
I have at last made a prper start at reassembling my basket case jupiter.
Lots of the original parts are missing,which makes it difficult to match up what goes where and with what.First thing is the fuel system.Ihave refitted the original pipe from tank to chassis.I bought a new fuel pump
which i think is the same type as fitted to MGB.This ihave fitted to the chassis bracket.It delivers 2.7 psi. Will i need apressure regulator?If so what type and where will i fit it?I have the original A.C glassbowl filter, is it
needed?If so where does it fit?I am also in the process of fitting the wiring harness and battery leads.First thing to decide is whether to stay +earth or go -ive I would be pleased to hear your views on this.
Having spent last year sourcing parts for a major rebuild of E2 SA 922 I commiserate. I confess to knowing a man who can rather than being multi skilled myself. The petrol pump to my knowledge does not have any seperate pressure regulator. If others have and can show benefit them I'm sure you will here through this post.
+ve or -ve, that IS the question. When we did the rebuild I had it done as original (+ve) I have just had it changed over. The reason, am having a form of electronic ignition fitted to cure the Jupiters natural aversion to water. Purists will shudder but on asking a surprising number are -ve earth.
If you look in the memberlist you will find a link to my website, which if you click it will take you to the rebuild and all the stages therein. I can't guarantee to find all the parts but since I have done that recently I may be able to help; feel free to either e-mail or private mail and I will answer what I can
Hi Allister thank you for the reply.Like you ,ihave gone for -ve earth
for the same reasons .Ihave also nearly finished fittihg up the fuel system but am still wandering what to do about the A.C filter,before the pump or after it? Cheers ARTE ET MARTE
Not too sure what name to use Tiffy, Arte or Marte, but hello anyway. My car was off the road from 1971 to 2007. The petrol tank had plenty of chance to rust, it took that opportunity with a vengance. I put the car on the road in May and have since run about 2000 miles in it Originally (the May rebuild)no filters were fitted. The swishing of petrol round for the first few miles scoured the flaky surface of the tank beautifully. This found its way through into the carbs as a fine sand. It took me some while figure out it wasn't the electrics and get to grips with the fuel. I bought and put in the tank some additive designed for diesels that breaks down this sand. This goo gave up the unequal struggle and continued to let sand through. Next up was an in line paper filter between the tank and the pump. This worked quite well for a few hundred miles. It then needed changing.
Wanting a more permanent solution I have resorted to getting a new filter again designed for diesel fuel injection systems metal in construction (Vauxhall Astra) and fitting that in place of the paper filters. This is the location that the pump manufacturer said to fit it (twixt tank and pump). If you are using the Zenith Carbs that a Jupiter engine was originally fitted with they have a gauze filter in line at the junction of the pipe in the carb. I am considering putting paper filters just before those as well. This is very much Belt, Braces, suspenders, binder twine and anything else I can think of but cleaning the carbs out every 200 miles is such a drag
Hi Tiffy,
Like Alistair, I opted for Neg earth some years ago...mainly due to the fact that I couldn't get the car, a Javelin in my case, to charge, even with different dynamos and control boxes. I had to carry a charged battery and a pair of jump leads everywhere.
It was a very simple job to put in an alternator, I used a Lucas 17ACR as fitted to most older BL cars. The pulley off the dynamo fits straight on to the alternator to cope with the thicker belt and the only other part needed was a length of tube about 8mm internal to fit between the rear bracket and the alternator lug.
I used a piece cut off an old Escort rocker shaft I had in the odds and ends box. I think it was about 2 inches long. A length of 8m threaded rod was used as a bolt.
Regatrdsd
Ted
To change the polaity of the generator
remove all wires
using a battery conect the gererator body to -ve
main feed to +ve and spin for 30 sec as an ordinary electric motor.
Hi guys ,greetings and thank you for the input.Well Allisteir of course you are right about the Tiffy business,i will change that to my proper name which is Len Johnson when ican figure out how to do it.
Ted,i have a jupiter dynamo which i will stay with because of the rev.counter drive.Par for course so far is the fact that the piece where the rev counter gearbox screws on is broken off laterelly leaving only half the threads.This means sourcing another dynamo or just the end plate unless of course someone knows a suitable repair method.
Thanks Keith for the info on polarity change,Am i right in thinking you also need to swap the wires over on the control box?
Best Regards Len.
Hello again,Keith i did what you said regarding the dynamo polarity.The dynomo spins freely and smoothly by hand.When i wired it up to a battery it spun at about 400 rpm at aguess.The lengths of wire iused were aboout the same diameter as sidelight wire which started to burn.Is this normal or is there a prob lem within the dynamo?I know the jcoc have the rev.counter gearbox in stock the problem i have is that the threads on the end ofthe dynamo are broken so iwouldn,t be able to fit the gearbox .At the moment this problem isn,t too urgent as i want to cocentrate on the fuel system and electrics in an effort to get the engine running.The engine came with the car as a recon unit but i don,t know by who.Anyway i took one of the heads off to see if had been coverted.It hadn,t so i hadthem done and refitted them.That is why i am so keen to get it running to find out just what i have got.
Cheers Len
Don't forget the smiths clock are built for either = or - earth , changing the polarity will kill it if you are still lucky to have one that works in your car.
Bryan
Len, you will also want to change the ammeter round. But this is not critical in the same way as Bryans comment, it would just show discharge rather than charge if you didn't change it.
Regarding the MGB fuel pump, I fitted one to my Jupiter and I had to fit a pressure regulatar to reduce the pressure down to 2 psi. The regulator was called a "Filter King", this was 15 years ago. I notice that Demon Tweeks have listed what looks like the same regulator but now called a "Petrol King".
I also have the same pressure regulator fitted. I have a Facit pump fitted and without the regulator the carbs keep flooding. I have it set just above 1 PSI.
Hi guys.
Hi Allister thank you for the reply.Like you ,ihave gone for -ve earth 