Rear wheel bearing replacement
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rob needs
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Rear wheel bearing replacement
My MOT tester found some movement in the rear offside wheel, he still passed it thou.He reccons its a wheel bearing job,whats involved replacing one of these?
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Forumadmin
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Check that the drum is on the taper properly. When you take it off make sure the shaft is not shiny anywhere indicating movement of the hub on the taper. If it is, then clean to remove all trace of grease on the taper and hub. If it is not, then check for movement in all directions on the shaft.
Replace hub, tighten to at least 80 lb/ft. Mike Alfrey has elsewhere explained the correct procedure. You can check by replacing wheel and trying to move in all directions. If there is still movement, it may be the hub is worn and the washer is not contacting the hub. I have had two hubs that have worn because they were loose (or perhaps changed from another car). Fitting a shim (around the whole circumference except for the keyway) into the hub solved the problem.
Replace hub, tighten to at least 80 lb/ft. Mike Alfrey has elsewhere explained the correct procedure. You can check by replacing wheel and trying to move in all directions. If there is still movement, it may be the hub is worn and the washer is not contacting the hub. I have had two hubs that have worn because they were loose (or perhaps changed from another car). Fitting a shim (around the whole circumference except for the keyway) into the hub solved the problem.
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David Morris
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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Hi Rob,
I have not yet had to replace a rear bearing, so cannot speak from personal experience, but I have had problems from a loose taper, as Keith has already mentioned in this thread. If yours is a hydro-mechanical rear axle, then the half shafts and hence the tapers were much smaller than the later axles. On a previous early Javelin, mine started 'fretting' around the Woodruff key and produced the problems Keith has mentioned. It became a real pain to sort out!
Like Keith, I had to use shims and do it up really tight. I suspect Jowett's had similar problems with these early axles, as the later ones are much 'fatter' all round. Everything at this end of the axle, including the size of the Woodruff key, got enlarged when they made the switch to full hydraulic brakes.
As for changing the bearing, I am sure it must be fairly straightforward, as these Salisbury axles are pretty conventional. By the way, GKN Salisbury still exist, and might be able to advise on the phone?
Hope this helps,
All the best,
David
I have not yet had to replace a rear bearing, so cannot speak from personal experience, but I have had problems from a loose taper, as Keith has already mentioned in this thread. If yours is a hydro-mechanical rear axle, then the half shafts and hence the tapers were much smaller than the later axles. On a previous early Javelin, mine started 'fretting' around the Woodruff key and produced the problems Keith has mentioned. It became a real pain to sort out!
Like Keith, I had to use shims and do it up really tight. I suspect Jowett's had similar problems with these early axles, as the later ones are much 'fatter' all round. Everything at this end of the axle, including the size of the Woodruff key, got enlarged when they made the switch to full hydraulic brakes.
As for changing the bearing, I am sure it must be fairly straightforward, as these Salisbury axles are pretty conventional. By the way, GKN Salisbury still exist, and might be able to advise on the phone?
Hope this helps,
All the best,
David