Rear exhaust bracket

[alexander]

My rear exhaust pipe , the one attached to the silencer has always touched the transverse stay. On inspection I have a different bracket to the one in the parts book. Can anyone tell me 1. the dimensions of bracket 1652 and 2. What does it bolt to as it look to be pointing away from the cars floor.
Thanks in advance
Alexander

[paul wilks]

I hope this might help!

[paul wilks]

exhaust fitting 2.doc

(12 KiB) Downloaded 20 times

[paul wilks]

exhaust fitting 2.doc

(12 KiB) Downloaded 26 times

[alexander]

Many thanks Paul for drawings , it looks like I have the twin to yours , some how it was fitted but with all the problems you had still there.
Alexander

[paul wilks]

Hi Alexander
To be honest the drawing of the exhaust with all the problems wasn't mine! I took it from something I'd seen re the problems encountered by another member. I hope they won't mind!
Regards
Paul

[David Morris]

Hi All,

Yes, the exhaust pipe assembly is a problem. I fitted mine some years ago and chose a stainless steel one, as I didn't want to go through this struggle again! Don't even think of getting a mild steel pipe, you will regret it! The pipe as supplied was too long ( fortunately! ) and I had to shorten it. I didn't have the problem with the bracket hitting the chassis, mentioned in the drawing with the 'two-mount' bracket forward of the jacking socket, and the upper part of the rear rubber mount just fixes up into the boot floor.

Where the pipe goes through the port through the chassis, I wound thick asbestos rope around the pipe, to stop it rattleing. With some thick copper wire at the ends, to stop it unravelling. If the pipe had been plain steel, this would have rusted quickly, but being stainless, it has lasted years. The asbestos rope can be purchased from a wood fire shop, as they use it to seal the front doors of the fires.

All the best,

David

[Nick Webster]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that some people have modified exhausts to have a flexible pipe, presumably before the first support. This allows the engine to move (as it certainly does) without putting too much strain on the pipe. Modern stainless flexible pipes are really long lasting. Does anyone have any experience of this? Where do you suppose would be the optimum point of fitting.... assuming it is a good idea at all.

Nick

[David Morris]

Hi Nick,

Yes, this seems a good idea, as the present pipework has to accomodate a lot of shaking from the engine. I guess the best place would be about a foot back from the first flange on the nearside exhaust manifold, where the present pipe is reasonably straight. Probably best to get the flexible bit welded onto the pipe, using stainless welding rods.

Best regards,

David

[Keith Clements]

Look at Peter Pfister's exhaust, there maybe a pic on JT or Facebook.

viewtopic.php?p=41521#p41521

[alexander]

Thanks for the inputs- Finally got the exhaust to clear but was still getting a knocking sound. Check clearance a number of times and was certain the exhaust was clearing. Just by chance while wriggling under the car I grabbed the rear layrub carrier and the end hit the body metal to metal. The attachment was one eighth of inch thick rubber bolted in two places to the carrier and two places to the body. I take it that these fixing should be strong enough to allow a little flex but not allow metal to metal contact.
Looking in the spares book if I’ve got the right part numbers it looks to be part 52323 rubber and fabric x2 and part number 52325 clamp plate x2. Can anyone confirm that these parts are correct. Thanks
Alexander

[alexander]

Thanks for the inputs- Finally got the exhaust to clear but was still getting a knocking sound. Check clearance a number of times and was certain the exhaust was clearing. Just by chance while wriggling under the car I grabbed the rear layrub carrier and the end hit the body metal to metal. The attachment was one eighth of inch thick rubber bolted in two places to the carrier and two places to the body. I take it that these fixing should be strong enough to allow a little flex but not allow metal to metal contact.
Looking in the spares book if I’ve got the right part numbers it looks to be part 52323 rubber and fabric x2 and part number 52325 clamp plate x2. Can anyone confirm that these parts are correct. Thanks
Alexander

[Chris Spencer]

That's correct - the fabric wears over time and then becomes frail - Jowett Car Spares keep the fabrics in stock - Pic of an original and a new one below

[alexander]

Thanks Chris will order a pair

[Keith Clements]

Flex
viewtopic.php?p=41521#p41521