1930 engine strip - flywheel

[Brucegirvan]

I know some have been following events on Facebook, but as I get nearer the critical areas I feel Jowett Talk is a better forum.

1930 detachable head engine. Big ends are spread over the bottom of the block, so I am in the process of stripping the engine down….and loving the learning. However I now have a question: what is the recommended way to remove the nut holding the flywheel on? I really am nervous about placing a rod across the block to use to crank to act against. I do not want to use the 2 bolt holes on the flywheel- I believe these are 1/2in Whitworth that I’ll need for pulling the flywheel off. Do I need a chain wrench around the flywheel? All advice welcome, and thanking you in advance.

[Tony Fearn]

Hi Bruce,
Have a look at:-
viewtopic.php?t=507

There should also be other references within the Pre-war section, but vary the search words.

If the conrods are out, then a piece of stout wood (say 1" x 2" by about a foot long) through the baffle plate hole will stop the crank from rotating as you undo the flywheel nut. Don't use metal as it might spoil the journal. a short sharp shock should loosen the nut. I use an ex-WD box spanner with a hefty tommy bar and a lump hammer on the bar. As usual, leftie loosie.

I've just removed one from a crankcase and the nut is very tight on its thread, all the better to re-tighten it I suppose.
Tony.

[Brucegirvan]

Thanks, Tony. And there I was thinking I had found all the flywheel posts. Obviously not!
I did try a long extension bar through the barrel holes to brace the crank against, but felt uneasy as the torque got more and more. I have some hardwood around, so will try tomorrow. In the meantime I’ll enjoy reading that link. Many thanks.

[BarryCambs]

If it's really tight, I always go with an impact wrench as the best solution in these cases. Maybe a bit of gentle heat? The threads for the puller are 1/2 Whitworth.

[Brucegirvan]

I have ordered a 7/8 Whitworth box spanner to help rather than damage my thin, large jaw adjustable spanner. I had to blink twice when I saw the price of a 7/8 w socket. Hopefully I will not have to go down that path, but if I do I may just try a local garage…though these days they have more cable connections and computers than old car tools.

[Tony Fearn]

Hi Bruce,
Have we an update about the dismantling?
Have you achieved the nearly impossible?
I have the Whitworth screwed bar and nuts, and the thick steel plate if you need them.
I'm coming to Stratford inch Allah, so I could bring them down for you to borrow and return at a later date.
Tony.

[Brucegirvan]

Tonight I got the 7/8 BSW nut off using a moderately long cheater bar and hard wood support for the crank to lever against. Flywheel still not budging - 2x 1/2 BSW bolts in with a puller attached, some wooden blocks between the flywheel and engine to encourage the flywheel forwards, and some heat the to centre of the flywheel. Not much moving. Have left it ‘tight’ overnight to see if anything moves: I have left the 7/8 nut on to catch the flywheel should it ‘go’.

If you could look out your gear, Tony, then if I haven’t had any luck I can try your kit. You never know. I remember Alan’s message about 2hrs of battling to get it off. I am hoping this one sees sense!

[Tony Fearn]

If you could look out your gear, Tony, then if I haven’t had any luck I can try your kit.

I'm setting off for the rally on Friday morning. The puller is 'looked-out'.
Let me know by telephone or email, if you need it, but not on Friday morning.
Tony.

[Brucegirvan]

Tony - the blighter is still not moving, so the lending of your puller will be most welcome. Yes, please give it a vacation to Stratford.

See you late Friday or over the weekend. Eddie will be on display somewhere...assuming the journey goes to plan.

Regards

[Tony Fearn]

O.K. Bruce, I'll put it in the car.
Tony.

[Tony Fearn]

O.K. Bruce, I'll put it in the car.

I did and it's with Bruce now.

We'll see if it works.

Tony.

[Brucegirvan]

Did it work? Oh yes it did! A couple of turns and off it popped. Now I need to get the cam gear off and am thinking of the same set-up. Does anyone know the thread size- appears either 5/16 x 13 or M8 x1.5?

Many thank, Tony. Have the right kit makes it easier.

[Keith Clements]

Worth posting a picture and making an engineering drawing so we can make some.

[Tony Fearn]

Having the right kit makes it easier.

Wonderful!
As someone said some time ago, and I presume he was also a Lancastrian, - "Tha carn't do owt baht right tackle".

I have found that a slim three-legged puller will sort-out the camshaft gear. I also use a large Jubilee clip with it to stop the puller legs spreading.
I'd be surprised if the puller holes were of a mm thread. Screw a known bolt into the thread to confirm the thread pattern.
Don't forget to make a punch mark on the cam gear boss, relevant to the keyway, so that you can put it back in the original position. There's a 1/3 tooth difference.
There should also be a punch mark at 6 o'clock near the teeth of the camshaft gear when the punch mark at 12 o'clock on the crankshaft gear shows TDC.
They should be opposite each other, although as it's many years old, the engine might have been 'fettled' a few times since 1930 and there may be a few marks.

I have used the same three-legged puller with the crankshaft gear, but note the position of the round key in the crankshaft end.

I can not comment on the use of the same system that was used on the flywheel, but I suppose it should work ok using a variety of steel washers.

Most of the above is resting within my ageing little grey cells, but Jowett Talk and the archive should help, and the literature shows how to time the engine.

After all this, it was really lovely to meet up with you at the Stratford rally. Previously you've only been a name in the Jowetteer.

Regards,

Tony..

[Brucegirvan]

Worth posting a picture and making an engineering drawing so we can make some.

Here’s a photo of the puller in place. I’ll put a drawing up too when I get round to it. As Tony indicated when we were chatting at Stratford, when screwing the bolts in, you have to be careful not to go too hard as you can mash the bearing housing behind. Something that obvious has happened before (second photo). Of course that may have been me on an earlier attempt though as I a bit OCD I always like to have the bars horizontal when loading as I can then note movement easier.