Side lights on with ignition

[alexander]

Had first run today and noticed that the side lights were on when ignition was on.
Lighting switch works as it should with side on first position and headlights on second.
My car is a 1953 and before I check switch wiring just thought I'd check if the Javelin was the first car to have running lights!!!

Not to many problems from the run , oil leaks, hand brake needs adjustment, running gear needs adjusting. Will update the head gasket thread once I'm certain I have it sorted.
Keep safe everyone

Dave

[Nick Webster]

Hello Alexander,

Glad to hear you are out and about on the road. Over the years, what with Jowett owners being an ingenious lot, many modifications have been made to the cars. Can't say that I have heard that running lights are high on the list of desirable mods, so I am stuck for helpful suggestions. Earth faults would normally be a favourite for non sensical electrical paths.

Nick

[Chris Spencer]

Dave - Side lights should be on the switch only - Its a Lucas PRS 5 switch on the delux Javelin - I think that the previous owner has wired it up incorrectly - wiring diagram for the switch is not readily available but I did find something online that someone had done with the same switch fitted to a different vehicle - I will see if I can find it - Edit - link below

https://nigelhamlinwright.files.wordpre ... witch1.jpg

[alexander]

Cheers both the switch is on Saturdays to do list
Dave

[Keith Clements]

download/file.php?id=6840&mode=view

But the owner may have been a Volvo driver or the car may have been used in Sweden.

Note the fault may not be at the switch but elsewhere in the wiring system.

If the ignition comes on when sidelight switch is on but ignition switch is off then there is a connection between the two circuits. The resistance of this connection would be useful to know. It may be going through a bulb.

Is there any non original wiring anywhere. If so start there.
Check all lights function properly and are not dim or come on at the wrong time.

[Chris Spencer]

That particular Javelin is a UK car - its been rewired recently by the previous owner whom owned a Fiat not a Volvo - fault lies in that fact that he's wired the switch wrongly - its a common mistake on the Lucas PRS 5 switch (I made the same mistake recently which why I went searching for a switch diagram)

[alexander]

Hi All - update.
With ignition on engine not running the side lights do not light. Engine running with side light switch off no lights to start with but after a short while the side lights come on. Switch engine off then turn ignition on not starting engine the side lights are on.
Switch ignition off leave for a short while turn ignition on not starting engine and side lights don't light.
Switch wiring seems ok so I've check earth points for wiring and they seem OK. I am going to fit extra earthing straps between body and engine to see if that's the problem.
Any suggestion if I'm missing anything please.

Good news oil leak was down to the rear timing chain cover bolts not being tight, hand brake was down to adjustment, plus the petrol gauge only showed quarter full and that was down to the sender arm being stuck.

So side lights is the on going issue at the moment.

Keep safe
Dave

[Keith Clements]

Check earth on regulator.
Ignition warning light during all this?
Check and clean fuses.
Use voltmeter and resistance meter.
This is likely to be a combination of faults.
I run a cable from the earth on battery terminal to my meter.
Then check earth resistance at all the components. Should be less than 1 ohm.
That is on the earth point of distributor advance base plate, lamp holder body, regulator earth terminal.
Do the same locations but on volts range and measure voltage when using starter motor and also when charging with engine running. There should be no voltage. Less than 1 volt.
Possibly regulator wired incorrectly. Check A and A1 connections particularly.

[David Morris]

Hi Dave,

I hope you get your side lights problem sorted. Sounds like a wiring problem to me, but why this should be intermittent is puzzling. My comment concerns your report that you have sorted the oil leak by tightening the bolts on the rear timing cover.

Luckily, you have stopped the oil leak, but you should be VERY cautious about over tightening these bolts. Many crankcases have been harmed by the two bolts being nipped down too fiercely and the threads stripping as a result. You will find lots of cases with helicoil inserts here, as a repair.

There is, unfortunately, an interaction between the vertical ( well almost vertical ) two bolts on the top of the casting and the five smaller ones coming in horizontally from the front timing cover. Over-tightening the front ones tends to pull the rear cover forwards, which is the opposite of what you need. The front ones only need to be nipped up enough to hold the crescent gasket seal on the front cover. It's a good idea to open-up the five holes in the front cover, so that the rear cover has room to move down when the two bolts in the rear cover are tightened and only then tighten the five front ones.

Use either a new gasket on the rear cover with a smear of sealant, or try the 'O' ring modification for more reliable results. This is the worst point on the Javelin/Jupiter engines for oil leaks and a quick look at the top of these engines will, in all probability, show the two longitudinal 'valleys' swimming in oil. You will be the exception if the top of the engine is dry.

Do stay safe, and, in my view, this virus is not beaten yet?

All the best,

David

[alexander]

Hi Keith
Thanks for the fault tracking guide, following it l found that one rear side light had an earth problem so my lights are doing what they should now and staying off when the engine is running. I did all the checks in your list just to make sure the electrics were OK so again many thanks for your help.


Hi David
Thanks for the warning, I did just nip the front bolts as a check after I found the two at the back loose (really loose)!!!

Stay safe
Dave

[Keith Clements]

This why on my Jup every component has a separate earth wire going back to an earthing block that has a connection via a massive earth strap to the battery terminal. There is also a cut out in this strap to isolate battery, does not isolate generator though so separate cut out on that.
This should also reduce galvanic corrosion.