Starting The Engine

[AlanBartlett]

Right this is the new part for me, What do I need to get/do to start the engine, Ive recently serviced it and am getting new gaskets for it, also fresh oil I have put inis there anything else I need to get or do before, I've got all the radiator pipes all ready to go. So does anyone have a guide for what I need to do? Thanks If you can help

[Keith Andrews]

What do I need to get/do to start the engine, Ive recently serviced it and am getting new gaskets for it,

little confused as what u have or intending to do up to this piont
This and old engine, rebuilt, reconditioned???

Either way...make dure u have oil pressure
It is a good idea to flush, preferably pull the radiator headers, and clean
Flush fuel lines and tank, adding a filter, check for fuel line leaks.
Clean and check carb, particularly wear in the butter fly bushes.
A good squirt of oil down the bores
Use a Zn based engine oil on new engines...this is a debatable piont, but doesnt hurt yo go to the safe side of the debate.
Check HT leads, dizzy cap, points.and timing right, and centrical weights are working....and dizy shaft bushes are not worn.
Compression test...leak down preferable.

[AlanBartlett]

Its an engine which has been left for 8year soaked in oil to stop seizing and has been partly serviced as fresh oil change and well lubricated has been set up to top dead centre

[Mike Allfrey]

Dear Bartlett Long Seven,

Are we discussing a Vintage Jowett?

How good are the battery and starter motor?

Your first goal should be to ensure that there is oil pressure before actually running the engine. With Javelin engines, I remove all sparking plugs and crank the engine on the starter motor till oil pressure is generated and indicated as being steady on the gauge.

Make sure that the inside of the distributor cap is clean and dry. Make sure there is a correct gap at the ignition points and that they are clean.

Make sure you have good connections at the coil lead and plug leads into the distributor cap.

Inform your neighbours and the environmental folk. that you are about to cover the county with dense smoke. If an engine has been soaked in oil, it will take a while to burn off the excess.

Make sure that the exhaust pipe is clear to let out all manner of black bits and pieces.

Cross your fingers - both hands. Make sure the gearbox is in neutral and that the clutch actually does its job.

My 10 HP Four Saloon started remarkably easily after slumbering since 1959 - so, all things Jowett being equal, it should start quite easily and settle down to that even Jowett beat at idle.

Good luck!

Mike Allfrey.

[AlanBartlett]

Cheers Mike, Yeah its a vintage 1934 Long Saloon 7 Thats cleared things up for me. Lets pray it runs after all this time

Alan Bartlett

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Alan.

Good to see you are nearly at the firing-up time.

I agree with all Mike says, but have you also checked that the oil filter is clean.

There should be at least 1/2" of the oil level wire showing, and preferably a bit more - up to 2" as long as the wire hasn't rusted at the top, thereby shortening it.

I would also recommend new plugs set to 25 thou.

I see that you have registered on JowettGallery so I have uploaded two items of interest to you for your pre-war car (note not Vintage as that period finished on 31st December 1930).

The first is an article which describes early pre-war Jowett maintenance -up to 1933, (but there's a lot of similarities), and the second is a wiring diagram for the 1933/4 cars.

Hope they are of use.

The photo of the car that you've published in JowettTalk could be used as an Avatar so that when you post anything, a thumbnail photo of it will come up on the LHS of your post. Check back in this site for K.C.'s instructions.

I might respectfully add that it's much better for us all if you have your name in the Author column instead of 'Bartlettlong7'. It's much better for us all to reply to.

Keep it up, and if you ever feel like taking a lump hammer to the "darned thing", walk away and leave it for a few days. We've all been in that position with our Jowetts. Ask for help and re-commence when the red mist has subsided.

Regards,

Tony.

[AlanBartlett]

I might respectfully add that it's much better for us all if you have your name in the Author column instead of 'Bartlettlong7'. It's much better for us all to reply to.

How do I change that name then? Do I have to email K.C ?

[Tony Fearn]

Alan.

I expect that emailing K.C. is the way forward if you wish to change the user name. It doesn't seem to work in the 'Profile' at the top of the page.

Tony.

P.S. My post about the pre-war maintenance in JowettGallery seems a little blurred. If you want me to photocopy and send it over to you just let me know through the PM option.

[AlanBartlett]

Ok cheers I'l add that to the growing list, I also need to track down some gaskets or make some? I basically need a whole set inlet manifold and exhaust, well basically a set for a 7 engine

[Tony Fearn]

Alan.

Jowett Car Spares, the Club's spares department has these gaskets if you can't obtain them anywhere else.

When you replace the inlet manifold I was told it's wise to use two gaskets on each side.

The aluminium manifold is usually quite brittle on the flanges after all this time. Roy Braddock once said that before you gently but firmly bolt it to the top of the cylinders, you should loosen the nuts around the flanges holding the cylinders to the crankcase first. This allows a little more movement when tightening the inlet manifold nuts so that the manifold is less likely to crack at the flanges whilst being tightened.

When the manifold flange is secure, the cylinder flange nuts can be re-tightened. I believe that flat washers should be used here.

Of course the tappet clearance of 2 thou all round when cold should be checked afterwards.

Tony.

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

If you propose using a starting handle to start it make sure your thumb is on the same side if the handle as your fingers. The "little engine with a big pull" has a nasty habit of delivering an almighty kick!

[george garside]

I can confirm what Tony has said about Roy Braddocks use of two gaskets on each side of the induction pipe. It was his 'standard' way of doing it and it saved a lot of broken flanges . He also advocated the tightening of induction pipe before tightening the pots & I have a strong feeling this was also recommended in either one of the factory service bulletins for Bradfords or in the JCL publication 'Hints for the Mechanic' which I think was published in 1946 which was aimed aat the pre war stuff. I should have a copy of this somewhere but am only just starting to 'unearth' my Jowett bumph since moving to Anglesey last year

[george garside]

I can confirm what Tony has said about Roy Braddocks use of two gaskets on each side of the induction pipe. It was his 'standard' way of doing it and it saved a lot of broken flanges . He also advocated the tightening of induction pipe before tightening the pots & I have a strong feeling this was also recommended in either one of the factory service bulletins for Bradfords or in the JCL publication 'Hints for the Mechanic' which I think was published in 1946 which was aimed aat the pre war stuff. I should have a copy of this somewhere but am only just starting to 'unearth' my Jowett bumph since moving to Anglesey last year

[AlanBartlett]

Ok I will take these into account, I heard of the starting handle to kick back. Erm does anyone know what size chain it is for the drive chain ive dropped the little link into the metal casting/oil bit i hope to find it but I dont know? Any ideas?

[AlanBartlett]

Here is a list of the things I feel I need to do to get it running/road worthy but not finished as for paint and cosmetics still need to be done after

Clean the engine - maybe pressure washer, to get all the dirt grease and grime off.

Tidy up the electrics behind the dash- wires dangling down just needs to be tidied to look nicer.

Setup the timing on the engine- setup top dead centre and put the timing chain back on.

Oil pressure- find it, make sure it reads on the guage.

Petrol guage- make sure that is working,

Dip switch- wire it up

Then after that list I think I would be about ready to start it up, any advice would be great