Javelin rear axle hub puller

[Tony Fearn]

On eBay:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jowett-javeli ... 3aa435ed37
Tony.

[Jack]

Worth considering, if I have remembered correctly, that these are different between early Javelins and late ones (the mechanical brake axle is different from memory). Unless of course I imagined this, but someone should be able to confirm.

I suspect this will be for the much more common late one.

Jack.

[CyrilWhite]

Iam bidding for this ,I live nearby so thought It was worth a punt.
Also I came across an ad for a company called Dynabead ,new to me perhaps others have knowledge of this systen for dynamic wheel balance .
if it works we could do with a hollow doughnut inventing for fitting around the prop shaft ( just dreaming ).

[Keith Clements]

http://www.dynabeads.co.uk/dynabeads_how.php
Presumably they work, but it does say you need to have some tyres/wheels balanced in the normal way as well. My guess is that with our large diameter and often distorted and poorly balanced wheels/tyres (especially of the cheap variety) that is good advice. Whether they compensate for uneven wear depends on how much rubber you have lost (or possibly gained, if you have been exuberant on a track day). Also leaving tyres standing for months can also cause major distortion which these beads will not compensate for.

I would go for the larger size application say 5 or 6 oz if I was going to use them.

And yes they could be used inside a prop shaft. I have used a similar method by only loosely fitting a Jubilee clip to the shaft. It tends to find the place of imbalance. Once it has moved to its desired position you can clamp it tight. A similar technique is used for flywheel / crankshaft balancing when using viscous dampers.
http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pd ... r_Info.pdf

I have one thought which is that the onset of vibration means that something is wrong , so if these beads mask that then you might not notice a missing wheel nut or wheel bearing or layrub going quite so soon to avert disaster.

[David Morris]

Hi,
That rear axle puller looks to me to be for the early mechanical brake axle. The thread on the drum was much smaller in diameter than the later hydraulic ones.
To those bidding, it might be worth asking the vendor to measure the id of the puller?
All the best,
David

[Andrew Henshall]

According to my measurements:

Early hydro-mechanical rear hub thread: 1-5/8" x 12 tpi = 1-5/8" x 12UN

Later full hydraulic rear hub thread: 1-7/8" x 12 tpi = 1-7/8 x 12UN

[BobCulver]

A couple of points

When Javelin axle nuts are tightened to conventional torques (which do not seem to be necessary) the hub expands so the puller will not thread on. It is a pain to labooriously reduce the threads with a small sharp file. Most engage one or two threads and ruin the hub and puller.
There is a pipe thread which is a near fit and more loose. Many resort to but a crude option.

With Javelins the brake drums are frequently way out of balance.

On our family cars, seldom driven over 110 kph, I have for decades balanced wheels horizonatlly using a lightweight level. Need some sort of centre with an acurate centre depression and balance wheel on a point. Put equal weights inside and out unless obvious otherwise. Works fine on non McPherson cars, bit variable on the latter.

Some balance Javelin wheels using an old hub with no seals and light oil in bearings. Again divide weights equally inside and out.

Bob Culver

[Keith Clements]

The drums on the racing and rally Jowetts in the 50s were meticulously balanced, but it is something I never got around to doing. For many years a local garage had an on car wheel balancer that overcame the problem.

[Andrew Henshall]

There is a pipe thread which is a near fit and more loose. Many resort to but a crude option.

Bob Culver

Indeed standard BSP plumbing fittings will screw onto both types of the hub and work satisfactorily for a while until the thread strips out of the fitting, which can damage the hub thread. BSP threads are named after the pipe inside diameter and not the thread outside diameter. The BSP fittings will screw onto the Jowett rear hubs despite being 11 tpi, because there is only 6 or so threads on the hubs and BSP threads in plumbing fittings are a tapered thread.

Early hydro-mechanical rear hub thread:1-5/8" x 12UN 1-1/4" BSP (11 tpi) thread will fit

Later full hydraulic rear hub thread:1-7/8" x 12UN 1-1/2" BSP (11 tpi) thread will fit

Regards,

Andrew

[BobCulver]

I guess the unstated message is that Javelin hub pullers are often of limited use as often will not fit.
I dont know what others do. Clawing a multiarm puller onto the cast iron rim of the drum is crude. I guess ideally a heavy circular plate should be tight clamped by the wheel nuts and pulled upon. Old robust brake discs may be adaptable.

Bob Culver

[robert lintott]

There is a Service Bulletin No 159 dated Nov 1953 which says the threads on the Jav/Jup axle shafts have been changed from BSF to SAE (14 TPI) Bob

[Keith Clements]

I do not go anywhere (usually) without my hub pullers in the car. (Except when on a JOAC weekend a few years back when I needed to borrow the Chairman's front one.) I now have a combined one! The front one is a bit of a pain because you need to take out the bearing lock. It is all too easy to resort to a mallets on the drum (or tyre )if you do not carry one with possible resultant damage.

[David Morris]

Hi,

I use a home-made three legged puller that fits on three of the wheel studs. The centre bolt bears on the end of the half shaft and I must admit I use a coin of the realm ( 1p/ penny ) between both to take the pressure off the steel surfaces. I probably will be heading to the Tower after admitting this, but anything soft and made of copper would do as well!

David

[Andrew Henshall]

There is a Service Bulletin No 159 dated Nov 1953 which says the threads on the Jav/Jup axle shafts have been changed from BSF to SAE (14 TPI) Bob

Indeed, but we are talking about the thread on the rear hub (drum), not the axle half shaft.

The rear hub on full hydraulic brakes definitely has an 1-7/8" thread (OD) x 12 tpi, according to my measurements. 1-7/8" x 12 tpi => 1-7/8" 12UN thread.

Cheers,

Andrew

[AmilcarJohn]

Andrew,

Doesn't that contradict your previous post regarding Hydro-Mechanical where you stated that the diameter was 1-5/8"?

Sorry if I'm missing something!

John