I will be starting the restoration of my Jupiter by stripping the steel work , & would like peoples input on sandblasting,soda blasting, Walnut shell blasting or chemical dipping/molasses.
After that is there a good way to paint or galvanise the chassis & steel components to last another 60 years. All suggestions appreciated. I don't care about originality for concourse , just want it rust proofed.
rust prevention
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David Kemp
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rust prevention
Good memories of Bradfords.
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Keith Clements
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Re: rust prevention
A Jupiter is a complex fabrication and rust is not the only problem. Galvanic action on the aluminium is by far the biggest problem and really can only be cured by taking it off the steel frame which supports it. This means a body off and bare metal restoration.
The chassis is fairly immune to rust being moly chrome but may, after prolonged exposure, penetration with moisture inside the tubes or other damage, succumb to the rust worm. I have found the best solution here is a wax based fairly fluid preventer that is applied using a long 360degree spray through small holes you drill and then plug in each section of tube.
The steel panels can be treated in many ways. If there is significant ‘holiness’ then methods used on the ‘Early Javelin Restoration’ are appropriate. If a bit more than surface rust, then a wire brush or rotary tool to get rid of the majority and then application of a rust convertor is appropriate. Once rust is removed, cover with Hammerite or other chip resisting paint.
If you are just trying to prevent rust then you need to make sure all seams are sealed by thorough cleaning (perhaps using steam and compressed air and lots of digging out with brush and knife). Some areas of the Jup are notorious for holding mud, so some refabricating might be useful if you expect to use the car on muddy roads.
The best prevention for rust is using the car.
The chassis is fairly immune to rust being moly chrome but may, after prolonged exposure, penetration with moisture inside the tubes or other damage, succumb to the rust worm. I have found the best solution here is a wax based fairly fluid preventer that is applied using a long 360degree spray through small holes you drill and then plug in each section of tube.
The steel panels can be treated in many ways. If there is significant ‘holiness’ then methods used on the ‘Early Javelin Restoration’ are appropriate. If a bit more than surface rust, then a wire brush or rotary tool to get rid of the majority and then application of a rust convertor is appropriate. Once rust is removed, cover with Hammerite or other chip resisting paint.
If you are just trying to prevent rust then you need to make sure all seams are sealed by thorough cleaning (perhaps using steam and compressed air and lots of digging out with brush and knife). Some areas of the Jup are notorious for holding mud, so some refabricating might be useful if you expect to use the car on muddy roads.
The best prevention for rust is using the car.
Last edited by Keith Clements on Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Chris Spencer
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Re: rust prevention
'Chip resisting paint' - YES - BUT - 'Hammerite' is far from chip resisting and would be the last thing that I tared any of my vehicles with - there are many advanced solutions with todays paint / chemical technology - from experience I would highly recommend this supplier http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes who market the Dynax range of corrosion control & metal priming products. Dinitrol http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Products/Rust ... wwodREEA6g Also have a good quality range of anti chip underseal products & cavity waxes - my personal preference is use the Dynax range of rust convertors with the Dinitrol range of rust preventers.cover with Hammerite or other chip resisting paint.
Chris
37 Jowett 8 HP - In many parts
52 Javelin Std 'Taxi Livery'
52 Javelin Std Patina project
52 Javelin Std Sports project
52 Jupiter SA - Original car - full restoration project
52 Javelin Std 'Taxi Livery'
52 Javelin Std Patina project
52 Javelin Std Sports project
52 Jupiter SA - Original car - full restoration project
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Keith Clements
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Re: rust prevention
Regarding bare metal preparation, then a dipping by Envirostrip saves a lot of time and effort, provided all non -steel components are removed. If no welding is necessary, then have it primed by the company as well. Envirostrip can advise. Note that you will lose all lead filler on the bulkhead in the process, so (as you are not into faithful originality) can be replaced by plastic filler.
Provided the media blasting company knows what they are doing, then aluminium can be blasted (probably at low pressure and using soda rather than silicate). I would recommend that way as paint stripper and rubbing down is very time consuming.
The decision revolves around cost. Expect to pay over £2000 for dipping and blasting, if you disassembled all the parts. It will be less, if you hired or bought blasting kit. It is possibly more satisfying to do it yourself and get a chance to examine every nook and cranny along the way. You will need a powerful compressor, breathing kit and a garage that is easily cleaned afterwards.
I think it best to give a blasting company the whole job of doing the chassis and have it enameled after media blasting. Care must be taken as blasting can work harden the very thin chassis tube. I blasted the SC chassis and Amy paint stripped (14 coats) and sanded the aly on the SC. Something we only want to do once! One thing to note on the chassis is that weld flux residue left there during manufacture is often caked on and can harbour rust. This can only be removed by chipping, so best done before you send away for blasting. We have subsequently bought stripping pads for the rotary tools that would have made the job easier, but care has to be taken with the very soft body aly.
Peter and I also blasted the Jav shell, but then had it acid stripped by Envirostrip once we discovered pockets of rust everywhere under the paint. I decided just to have Jack's Jav shell acid stripped to see what we were dealing with straight away. We can use media blasting for any residual rust that is sometimes left by the process.
Provided the media blasting company knows what they are doing, then aluminium can be blasted (probably at low pressure and using soda rather than silicate). I would recommend that way as paint stripper and rubbing down is very time consuming.
The decision revolves around cost. Expect to pay over £2000 for dipping and blasting, if you disassembled all the parts. It will be less, if you hired or bought blasting kit. It is possibly more satisfying to do it yourself and get a chance to examine every nook and cranny along the way. You will need a powerful compressor, breathing kit and a garage that is easily cleaned afterwards.
I think it best to give a blasting company the whole job of doing the chassis and have it enameled after media blasting. Care must be taken as blasting can work harden the very thin chassis tube. I blasted the SC chassis and Amy paint stripped (14 coats) and sanded the aly on the SC. Something we only want to do once! One thing to note on the chassis is that weld flux residue left there during manufacture is often caked on and can harbour rust. This can only be removed by chipping, so best done before you send away for blasting. We have subsequently bought stripping pads for the rotary tools that would have made the job easier, but care has to be taken with the very soft body aly.
Peter and I also blasted the Jav shell, but then had it acid stripped by Envirostrip once we discovered pockets of rust everywhere under the paint. I decided just to have Jack's Jav shell acid stripped to see what we were dealing with straight away. We can use media blasting for any residual rust that is sometimes left by the process.
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Srenner
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Re: rust prevention
I recommend blasting with the least abrasive media approved for rust removal. Paint can come off with lighter media, but may not remove the scale. Sand is the least desirable, as it cuts the metal, whereas beads sort of peen the surface. IMHO, never dip the chassis as the tubes could degrade from hydrogen embrittlement.
There is a bit of a trade off in buying a blasting cabinet or outsourcing everything. There are tons of little parts that would benefit from soda or fine bead blasting and no issue of lost parts. But you need to buy the cabinet and a decent compressor. Plus, it can take a surprising amount of time to blast a part. Still, this is the route I would suggest.
As I am familiar with your car, I suggest removing the scuttle/subframe and having both the chassis and the scuttle blasted. A good operator will mask/protect areas you don't want touched. Be sure that anything threaded gets protected; don't assume the operator will do this. Take a minute to look at things and consider if grit, air pressure or anything else will damage the function of the part. I often leave bolts and screws in their bosses.
The question I see is removing the alloy rear skin so that all the rear structure can be done. Do not work the skins off their supporting structures.
Looks like it could be a fun year ahead!
There is a bit of a trade off in buying a blasting cabinet or outsourcing everything. There are tons of little parts that would benefit from soda or fine bead blasting and no issue of lost parts. But you need to buy the cabinet and a decent compressor. Plus, it can take a surprising amount of time to blast a part. Still, this is the route I would suggest.
As I am familiar with your car, I suggest removing the scuttle/subframe and having both the chassis and the scuttle blasted. A good operator will mask/protect areas you don't want touched. Be sure that anything threaded gets protected; don't assume the operator will do this. Take a minute to look at things and consider if grit, air pressure or anything else will damage the function of the part. I often leave bolts and screws in their bosses.
The question I see is removing the alloy rear skin so that all the rear structure can be done. Do not work the skins off their supporting structures.
Looks like it could be a fun year ahead!
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Keith Clements
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Re: rust prevention
Here is my set up inthis post.
As Scott says you find you use the soda and grit blaster frequently when rebuilding a car even if you have had the majority done professionally. You also have less chance of losing the parts.
You can also see in the Early Javelin hereand in other places where we used sand blasting to clean up prior to welding before it went for dipping.
As Scott says you find you use the soda and grit blaster frequently when rebuilding a car even if you have had the majority done professionally. You also have less chance of losing the parts.
You can also see in the Early Javelin hereand in other places where we used sand blasting to clean up prior to welding before it went for dipping.
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