Pre-war clutch
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k. rogers
- Posts: 480
- Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:43 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1933 7hp Kingfisher
1935 7hp Weasel
1928 7hp Sports replica
1952 Bradford special - Given Name: Ken
- Location: Cornwall
Pre-war clutch
Having just reinstalled the rebuilt engine in the Kingfisher, I am not convinced the clutch is releasing enough when I depress the pedal as it is not easy to select first gear. I have checked the clutch plate while the pedal is right down and can turn it using a screwdriver against the rivets around the plate centre but I wonder whether it should be free-er and move more easily than this - can anyone give advice , please?
7hp Weasel & Kingfisher
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Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
Re: Pre-war clutch
Hope this is sorted now Ken after our telephone conversation.
Tony.
Tony.
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k. rogers
- Posts: 480
- Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:43 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1933 7hp Kingfisher
1935 7hp Weasel
1928 7hp Sports replica
1952 Bradford special - Given Name: Ken
- Location: Cornwall
Re: Pre-war clutch
Thanks Tony, it only needed very slight adjustment, but it did make a difference - easy when you know how!
7hp Weasel & Kingfisher
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Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
Re: Pre-war clutch
Not much useful data in my last post, so here's what Ken and I discussed.
Up to 1933 the clutch pedal lever was attached directly to the cross-tube in the gear box that carried the forks that pressed upon the clutch thrust bearing.
I suggested that with the floorboards in-situ, Ken should loosen the bolt at the bottom of the clutch pedal lever, and with the pedal shaft hard up against the floorboard, he pulled the forks within the rear of the gearbox back as far as they would go.
Having done this, the bolt is tightened up, and then the adjustment of the toggles should be carried out as per the manual, allowing 1/16th gap before actuating.
The 1/16th gap can be 'guessed' by feel, and as long as each of the three levers seem to have the same gap, the clutch should take up smoothly.
If you're doing this without the floorboards in, then a pretend wooden floorboard strip should be bolted to the scuttle so that the clutch pedal lever is in its usual position before setting the clutch toggles.
Tony.
Up to 1933 the clutch pedal lever was attached directly to the cross-tube in the gear box that carried the forks that pressed upon the clutch thrust bearing.
I suggested that with the floorboards in-situ, Ken should loosen the bolt at the bottom of the clutch pedal lever, and with the pedal shaft hard up against the floorboard, he pulled the forks within the rear of the gearbox back as far as they would go.
Having done this, the bolt is tightened up, and then the adjustment of the toggles should be carried out as per the manual, allowing 1/16th gap before actuating.
The 1/16th gap can be 'guessed' by feel, and as long as each of the three levers seem to have the same gap, the clutch should take up smoothly.
If you're doing this without the floorboards in, then a pretend wooden floorboard strip should be bolted to the scuttle so that the clutch pedal lever is in its usual position before setting the clutch toggles.
Tony.