Carb/fuel pump(braddy) cleaning:
These are hard to detail and clean up, espec if on the car.
Clean with thinners, and tooth brush to get the crud off.
Make up a soln of citric acid, about 3 teaspoons in a cup warm water...check the missus' spice rack to source the citric acid lol.
With a tooth brush, give a light scrubb and leave damp, about and hr later another light scrub..
just as it drys, use one of those little brass toothbrushes, and 'buff' up with it. A final rub with a dry scotchbrite looks even better.
If u leave say over night then buff it means more buffing...thats more work and a 4 lettered word lol
A final mist spray of a clear polyurethane on the outside will mke it stay clean longer...this may yellow slightly over time, but in manner that somwhat looks like caduim plating.
If rebuilding and have the carb dissambled, clean with thinners, dry then drop into a bowl of citric acid for about 1/2 hr no longer...repeat if results are not up to sctatch...dont dry, hose out and wash down thougherly, and a bit more, blow dry with the air gun.
This can also be used on things like pistons...dont do it on polished aluminum otherwise u will have to re buff on a polishing wheel.
Alumium polishing at home
like the braddy inlet manifold.
Polishing can be expensive..
To take a Braddy inlet manifold from heavy corrosion after yrs laying in a paddock, about 3 to 4 hrs.
1/ clean up with a 4"ginder and a reasonble fine sanding disk.( $NZ 1)
2/use a 3m grey grade buff that goes in the drill ( $NZ15)...take out the sanding marks from 1/....start in 1 place and work your way over the unit, dont work on the whole unit at once.
2/A 4" cloth buffing wheel ($NZ15) in a high speed drill clamped in the vise, a few drops of kero on the wheel. I use a stick of Stainless steel buffing rouge rubbed onto the buffing wheel.
Polishing Al one hast to understand what happens...what u do is create heat, (hot) this 'melts' the top molecular layer of Al, and sort of moves it to an fills fine scratches. I find by 1st heating the unit with a lpg torch till hot (need leather gloves) then start polishing is best rather than devaloping the heat from friction.
Again start at one end and work your way over the unit. keep buffing wheel damp with kero.
Clean up with a mix of kero and thinners...final polish with a good car polish. Polish , let dry off , and buff...leave in the sun for couple days, and re polish to build up a good protective coat. 3 polishes.
Do not use a good drill and the buffing wheel...it will kill the end bearing and not drill a hole straight again.
I have a heap of 'tricks' like these, learnt thru my hotrodding days.
Before
This is the result of a day 1/2 from unpainted, covered in crap, surface rust, and general yrs of neglect. (carb has only been cleaned with thinners here.) All done with engine in the car, nothing removed except manfold, water hoses and battery
I will continue later...any questions will be happy to answer in mean time
PS..that engine is near stuffed, theses more blow by from the braether than exhaust and has a hell of a knock lol and still goes well lol