javelin steering

[cyril winstanley]

I found the much vaunted clever steering box on the Javelin to be a severe problem & the Club has no new spares. The result is dreadful sloppy steering. Has anyone tried fittiing a Jupiter rack & pinion? The geometry must be the same on both cars but space may be a problem . Worh a try though, you may get the best steering Javelin ever. Cyril Winstanley

[Forumadmin]

The geometry is not the same, there is nowhere to fix the bushes that hold the rack, and I would be very wary of doing such a mod from the insurance point of view.

Although I have not refurbished a Jav box, I did put a good one in last year. It should not be that difficult to get rid of the slopiness.
When I get time, which is not likely to be this year, I will have a look at how to do it.

You should check that the big nuts, and all the nuts come to that are tight. It may be just that that is giving the play.

[David Morris]

Hi there,

You mentioned that you have sloppy steering on your Javelin. This really is very unusual, do believe me! The Javelin steering set-up is usually very good and, as all the wear points are adjustable, you should be able to adjust all the 'slop' out of the system, to give results that are really great for the age of the car.

The box is adjustable for pinion mesh with the 'rack' and each of the steering cones can be adjusted to remove all the wear. If you have the later track rod ends, then these can be adjusted to take out wear. However, it's worth stripping these down for examination, as I have seen really quite dangererous wear in the track rod pivots, where just tightening the adjusting nut masks a really dodgy situation that is hidden from view, either by the owner or the MoT tester. Taking out the wear is only half of the problem here and careful examination might be life-saving.

However, there are at least two points that you might like to look at when adjusting the steering link rod. The cone nuts can wear oval and this gives strange results. I believe Bill Lock has new ones, if the Club does not have any. Also, take great care to fold the tab washers on the cone nuts both inwards over the adjusted nut AND outwards over the locking nut. Failure to do this can lead to the steering cones locking solid on the road with horrible results!

Finally, the swivel pins should be free of wear, both vertical and horizontal. If the pins or their bushes are worn, then you will have a sloppy system.

I hope this is useful and that you can restore your Javelin steering to zero-slop!

All the best,

David

[Forumadmin]

From the Maintenance Manual.

129. Steering Linkage Service
Adjustment for wear on the steering linkage is provided on the Bearing Cone nuts at each end of the Steering Link. To make adjustment, remove the Lock nut and Tab washers, fully tighten the bearing cone nut, and then slack back through 1/6th turn. Fit new tab washers and lock up in this position. Before folding over tabs check that the steering is free. Adjustment is also provided for end movement in the steering rod couplings at each end of the Link. Fold back the rubber cover at the inner end of each Steering rod, unscrew the socket, and with draw the rod from the housing in the end of the link. The Steering rod pad can then be removed from the housing and sufficient shims fitted behind the pad to eliminate all end movement, while allowing the coupling to move freely. It should be noted that stiffness in these couplings does not affect the freedom of steering movement, and that it is therefore necessary to disconnect the ball joint from the Steering arm at the brake drum, in order to check the full arc of the rod. To remove the Steering Linkage from the car, detach the ball joints at the outer end of the Steering Rods, from the Steering arms, and remove the Lock nuts and cone nuts securing the link to the Steering box arm and to the intermediate arm. The linkage can now be manoeuvred clear of the chassis.
No provision is made for adjustment of wear in steering ball joints, or for replacement of separate parts of the unit. Should it be necessary to replace these joints the track should be re-set, as detailed in paragraph 124. With the linkage removed, check the steering intermediate arm for signs of wear or excessive play. The bolt securing the arm to the chassis should be tightened fully so that the bearing cone is nipped up, the arm should move freely without play.

Fig 54

130. Steering Column and Box Adjustment
Adjustment is provided, on all cars, for pinion end movement, by means of shims fitted between the face of the column and the flange on the box. A flange on the pinion registers with the recess and with the flange. Removal of the shims reduces the end movement of the pinion. To adjust, release the three setscrews securing the column to the box and also the column “U” bolt and the gear change column bolt, lift the column and pinion clear of the box, and remove shims as necessary, to reduce end movement. Check that the pinion can move freely through the full arc of the quadrant before completing reassembly. On early cars there is no adjustment for meshing of pinion to gear, but on all cars after Engine No.D9/PA/3871, an eccentric pinion bush is fitted into the bore of the Steering box bracket. A drilled lockwasher is keyed into the flange of the bush and fits between the flanges on the column and the box. To adjust, remove the three setscrews securing the column to the box and turn the lockwasher until the best possible meshing is obtained, bearing in mind that if wear has taken place this will be mainly in the centre of the gear, and that adjustment will be limited by meshing on each extreme lock. Adjustment is also provided on all cars for steering box arm play. This can be re-set, by removing the rubber cover on the top of the arm shaft, removing the split pin, tightening down the nut fully and slacking back until the arm can move freely. Re-fit the pin and rubber cover.

131. Steering Column and Box Service
To dismantle the steering column ; release the setscrew on the side of the steering wheel hub and remove the horn push assembly, disconnect and remove the horn brush on the side of the column, release the Steering wheel nut, and draw off the wheel. Disconnect and remove the accelerator pedal. Release the three setscrews securing the column to the box, and the gearchange column bolt. Remove the “U” bolt which retains the steering column and gearchange column to the facia panel. The steering column and pinion are now free for removal, and should be lifted upward, so that the pinion clears the box, before moving to the side. Note and save the shims and the Locking washer fitted between the flanges on the column and the box. Remove the pinion downward from the column, check the felt bearing at the top of the column, and replace if necessary, and also check the horn slip ring and connection. To remove the Steering box from the chassis, jack up the front of the car, remove the right hand front road wheel, detach the steering, detach the steering ball joint from the steering arm and lift clear. Disconnect the Stub Axle column and the Shock absorber at the lower pins, lift clear, and support, preferably by tying up. Release the bolt and setscrew (through the bottom rear of the upper link bracket) securing the Steering box to the dash side, and lower the box, which can then be removed from under the dash side. It is not normally necessary to dismantle the Steering box assembly, as reconditioned units can be supplied and dismantling involves grinding away the welded edge of the box casing, and re-welding when reassembling. The Steering box is filled with oil on assembly, but should be replenished with grease during service. Fill to the level of the plug hole, taking care to avoid air pockets in the grease. It is important that a grease nipple is not fitted to the Steering box as air locks will be experienced if this is done. The eccentric bush fitted to all steering boxes after engine No. D9/PA/3871, can be replaced, if worn. The bush should turn freely in the bore of the Steering box bracket. Reassembly of the Steering box and column is the reverse of the routine outlined for dismantling, but the following special points should be noted. When fitting the column to the box add or remove shims as necessary to eliminate end float in the pinion, and set the eccentric bush adjustment to the best possible meshing position, in both cases allowing the column pinion and the gear to turn easily. Make certain when securing the column to the facia panel that the column is settled in its normal position i.e., there must be no side strain whatever on the column. Check that the horn brush is free to move up and down in its holder, and that the spring is working correctly before refitting the brush holder to the steering column. Also check that the horn push contacts are clean when refitting the push button.

[Robin Fairservice]

Quote: "Adjustment is also provided on all cars for steering box arm play. This can be re-set, by removing the rubber cover on the top of the arm shaft, removing the split pin, tightening down the nut fully and slacking back until the arm can move freely. Re-fit the pin and rubber cover. "

This sounds great, but I look at this nut and wonder how I can ever get at it to follow these instructions. Any tips on how one actually undertakes this apparently simple adjustment?

[David Morris]

Hi,

Many thanks for posting the extracts from the maintenance sheets. Very comprehensive. However, para 129 states 'No provision is made for adjustment of wear in steering ball joints, or for replacement of separate parts of the unit'. This only applies to the earlier type of ball joints with the tapered shank. The later ones, with the threaded shank, can be adjusted and some internal parts can be exchanged, if desired. However, as I mentioned, I recommend a full disassemby to check for wear and distortion in these vital safety items. I have seen the necks of the shanks, just below the half-ball, almost worn away to nothing, so please be aware! It is so easy amd tempting just to screw down the adjuster and take out the slop, but trouble may be present inside!!

Para 129 also mentions folding back the tabs on the tab washers but does not stress that you MUST fold back and forward the tabs on the cone nuts and their lock nuts!

Although I mentioned the use of the polyurethane bushes in the previous post, I have since dug out the details, if anyone needs them. The bushes I used were SuperFlex bushes, type SPF282 and these were available from Frontline Spridget. I see they have since moved away from Bath and are now on 01235-832632 at their new depot in Abingdon-on-Thames. Some time ago, when I bought my bushes they were £7.95 each + VAT.

I hope this helps,

David

[Tony Fearn]

I have seen the necks of the shanks, just below the half-ball, almost worn away to nothing, so please be aware! It is so easy amd tempting just to screw down the adjuster and take out the slop, but trouble may be present inside!!

This spring shackle from a pre-war Jowett illustrates what David is saying here, and although it's not a half-ball, you'll get the idea.

Tony.

[Forumadmin]

In response to Robin, I had a look at the access to the nut at the back of the steering box on a right hand drive car. I would think it is just possible to get in there with the engine, gearbox and rad in, but a darn sight easier with them all out.

[Robin Fairservice]

Mine is left hand drive, but probably not much different for access.