Jupiter restorations.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Got curious and looked up Ford Transit. Be careful, the offset on that wheel would put the tire outside the edge of the wing. Also can add that Honda Accord space saver spares are 16" x 4", but the centers would not work. One could cut the centers out and swap in the Jowett center, but that's the part that develops cracks.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
There seems to be confusion.
I dont want complete wheels as i know nothing has the same pcd.
I just require a modern wheel I can salvage the outer rim/ barrel
I dont want complete wheels as i know nothing has the same pcd.
I just require a modern wheel I can salvage the outer rim/ barrel
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Be careful fitting wider rims to Jowett centres as they are potentially dangerous. The centres will need a lot of strengthing with weld around all holes and hub cap pins. Then they should be heat treat destressed and probably straightened and balanced prior to tyre fitting.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Update on where I am at, I have evicted my son's mini from the shed. My Jupiter is now in it and ready to have the engine and gearbox installed. I hope to have it running by Christmas, my second chassis is more mobile than it has been but a long way from getting anywhere.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Hi folks I need a hand, can someone please post a picture of the clutch & brake linkage set up.
I have pedals The master cylinder however no fork ends or link rods.
Next question is are they the same as a Javelin?
If not what is the difference?
The parts list mentions a special spacer for the Jupiter master cylinder,which is not pictured.What does it look like?
I have pedals The master cylinder however no fork ends or link rods.
Next question is are they the same as a Javelin?
If not what is the difference?
The parts list mentions a special spacer for the Jupiter master cylinder,which is not pictured.What does it look like?
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Have a look at the Best Bits SA and SC rebuilds, there should be a suitable picture. Will take more pics when I get car on lift next week.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
note clutch engagement micro switch for overdrive latch mechanism
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Thanks for the photo.
Is the brake & clutch pedal shaft the same as a Javelin?
Are left hand drive jupiters different?
Mine is very chewed up, before I make another one is it possible to use a javelin one?
Is the brake & clutch pedal shaft the same as a Javelin?
Are left hand drive jupiters different?
Mine is very chewed up, before I make another one is it possible to use a javelin one?
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Jav is different I think.
I would think left and right would be different but there is a slim chance they might not be, if Jowetts had their act together.
First check the parts book.
Also the answer may be different for and SA and an SC. I could check this on the three in my stable, but would require a lot of measuring.
You may need to rebush and ream the hole in the chassis.
It is worth strengthening the gearbox mounting shrouds especially if there has been any rusting. They can sheer around the mounting holes. make sure the gearbox just turns in the rubber after set up with washers.
I would think left and right would be different but there is a slim chance they might not be, if Jowetts had their act together.
First check the parts book.
Also the answer may be different for and SA and an SC. I could check this on the three in my stable, but would require a lot of measuring.
You may need to rebush and ream the hole in the chassis.
It is worth strengthening the gearbox mounting shrouds especially if there has been any rusting. They can sheer around the mounting holes. make sure the gearbox just turns in the rubber after set up with washers.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Hi everyone, I have a couple of questions.
1st is what does a Jupiter fuel pump block off plate look like? I have made one but am curious what the original is like.
Secondly i am thinking of moving the oil filter.
If i do this it will require oil lines, so can i put the oil cooler & filter in the same circuit? Or does the cooler need to bypass the filter?
1st is what does a Jupiter fuel pump block off plate look like? I have made one but am curious what the original is like.
Secondly i am thinking of moving the oil filter.
If i do this it will require oil lines, so can i put the oil cooler & filter in the same circuit? Or does the cooler need to bypass the filter?
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Oil cooler positioning
Spin off oil filter conversions are available, so may not need to move the filter. No idea why you want to move it as it would need a lot of pipe work to get the oil to and from the crankcase.
Probably best to cool oil after the filter so it goes through the filter more easily.
Probably best to cool oil after the filter so it goes through the filter more easily.
Last edited by Keith Clements on Wed Aug 10, 2022 5:32 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Jupiter restorations.
Keith has his cooler mounted low on the firewall, so mounting a filter next to it would not add much more in the way of plumbing and would make oil changes much less messy. Also, it's a good idea to include a thermostat as KC has done as this will allow the oil to heat up to operating temp much faster and helps protect the engine bearings. On my Europa, I was able to gang the thermostat into one of the filter's ports making a combined unit.
Yes, put the filter in front of the cooler. If debris gets into the lines, the cooler is protected by the filter.
Most race plumbing nomenclature is AN. AN stands for Air Force – Navy Aeronautical Design Standards (also known as “Army Navy”) that are used in U.S. Military aviation applications. Sizes are listed by a number: -3 is small line or fitting (braided steel brake line) while -12 is way too big for anything on a Jowett. A good size for Jowett oil lines is -8.
Pressure drop is the big issue when selecting lines and coolers, so cheap stuff is best avoided. Coolers can be mounted ports up or down. My preference is ports up so there is less chance of a captive air bubble.
Yes, put the filter in front of the cooler. If debris gets into the lines, the cooler is protected by the filter.
Most race plumbing nomenclature is AN. AN stands for Air Force – Navy Aeronautical Design Standards (also known as “Army Navy”) that are used in U.S. Military aviation applications. Sizes are listed by a number: -3 is small line or fitting (braided steel brake line) while -12 is way too big for anything on a Jowett. A good size for Jowett oil lines is -8.
Pressure drop is the big issue when selecting lines and coolers, so cheap stuff is best avoided. Coolers can be mounted ports up or down. My preference is ports up so there is less chance of a captive air bubble.
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Oil cooler positioning
Just reread your post. Definately do not bypass filter! Put filter on output from oil pump and then cooler between filter and crankcase input holes. I do not think there is enough meat around those holes ( and the feed from the pump) to drill out a thread for the unions.
The original filter housing has a nice trick. If the filter gets blocked with crud it by passes it and lets the crud go straight to the bearings.
The thermostats I use on the Jup and Jav bypass the cooler when oil is not up to temp.
I also have a fan on the oil cooler which is under the front wing on the Jav which is switched on to get extra air flow by the water radiator electric fan thermostat.. On the Jup the cooler is behind the water radiator electric fan.
The original filter housing has a nice trick. If the filter gets blocked with crud it by passes it and lets the crud go straight to the bearings.
The thermostats I use on the Jup and Jav bypass the cooler when oil is not up to temp.
I also have a fan on the oil cooler which is under the front wing on the Jav which is switched on to get extra air flow by the water radiator electric fan thermostat.. On the Jup the cooler is behind the water radiator electric fan.
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