JowettTalk

Hello,
okay, that with the two oil fillers and with the oil dipstick, I get it!
But how I can see, If to much oil is in the engine?
I think there must be a mark to see minimal and maximal oil level

If it isn´t really the original motor but a industrial motor, it is probably that it has more power?
A few month ago, a kollege from the forum has said, I have a Big block.
If somebody can give me informations about hp or other datas, please tell me.

Regards Marcel

If using the wire indicator on top of the engine the summp is 'up to correct full level when the wire stops rising. If you also have a dipstick and it is not calibrated the only way to be certain is to drain the oil - pour in 2 pints of oil and mark this as ''LOW'' then put in another 2 pints and mark the dipstick reading as ''FULL''

What is the engine number ( on the brass plate on timing case) as this will establish the year of the engine or at leasst of the crankcase anda atherefore of the capacity. However both 907cc (as up to 1936) and 946cc ( 1937 - 1940 ) have the same output of 17bhp. at 3250 rpm. It is also possible that it has 1946 + Bradford CA cylinders which give a capacity of 1005cc . If it also has a Bradford camshaft it may develop19bhp @3500 rpm and a bit more torque 43ftlb at 1400rpm. .

george

Marcel,

Some time ago in this '1936 Jowett in Germany restore' discussion, there was a photograph of an engine showing the filler cap and the oil level tube.

Look at the post by Peter Holden on Wednesday July 18 2012.
When you have emptied the oil from the sump, take off the little cap from tube 'B' in the drawing. The end of the wire should just be seen inside at the top of the tube. Inside the engine the other end of the wire is firmly attached to a block of cork in the sump.

As you add oil through the filler hole (at 'A'), the cork will float on the surface of the oil and so the wire will start to rise out of the top of tube 'B'.

When the wire showing is about 1.5 cm long, this will be the minimum amount.

When you add more oil the cork float rises and the wire showing will become longer.

If you look at the second drawing you will see that the wire passes through a special fixing to keep it straight. This also limits how high the wire can rise because the float will stop rising when it touches the fixing. This will be the maximum amount.

You will see from the drawing that if you add even more oil, the float will not be able to rise further, so the sump will have too much oil in it.

Tony.

Hello,

Georg,
Today evening I´m looking forward to look for the engine number and what is still on the brass plate. I will it tell you tomorrow.
But to at any rate, the motor runs nice and round and it takes the gas well. I would not have thought, the first start attempt.

Tony,
I get it!
Also simply said: I should fill in oil, until the wire is in opperst position, right?



Thank you
Regards marcel

Hello Georg

Yesterday I couldn´t look to my engine, sorry. I will send you the datas on saturday!




Yesterday I tested my temperature sensor with hot air, at some points it stopps, but it works!
Is inside the iron line `quecksilber` ? (the same liquid is in a classical thermometer)

Marcel

PS.: This week I´m a student in a service training course, therefore I can surf in internet and wirite more texts here!

mercury or quick silver

Okay,
That is very toxic, how I can develop that mannometer?
I can´t seperate the line from the mannometer?, or is there a special shutter?

Hello,
On the messing plate on the engine is written:

Engine NO 949277
Set Tappets (cold)
006 Minimum Clearance
2 3/4" ATV BEF. Ignition T.D.C.


Can you say, How much power has the engine?
And what are the other written things?
perhaps you can say the year of manufacture,?


thank you

I can´t seperate the line from the mannometer?, or is there a special shutter?

I do not understand what you are trying to do. Are you trying to measure the vacuum pressure in the crankcase (in bar, pounds per square inch, or inches of mercury Hg), or a temperature (in Degrees centigrade)?

Set Tappets (cold)
006 Minimum Clearance
2 3/4" ATV BEF. Ignition T.D.C.

The tappets are the gaps between the top of the valve and the pushrod or camshaft or cam follower. These should be set to a minimum of 6 thousandths of an inch clearance. (6 thousandths) * (1 inch) = 0.1524 millimetres.

Ignition spark should occur at the top of the engine stroke (Top Dead Centre) that is when piston is at its maximum travel from crankshaft. There should be a mark on the flywheel at that point.

I do not know what

2 3/4" ATV BEF.

means. Anybody?

Hi Marcel
the engine number beginning wit '9' indicates that it was a 1939 model. the fact that the crankcase has 2 oil entry 'fillers' indicates that the crankcase was originaly from an industrial engine of that year. The first number i.e.'9' denotes the year so an original 1935 engine would begin with a '5'.

the 7hp engines made up to and including 1936 had a capacity of 907cc. the 8hp engines from 1937 to 1940 had a slightly larger capacity of 946cc. Both the 7 and 8hp engines were rated at 17bhp @ 3250rpm. Both 7 & 8 hp engines have a stroke of 101.6mm . the 7hp engine has a bore of 75.4mm and the 8hp a bore of 77mm. Your car could be fitted with either size as it looks as if the engine has at some time been built up using components from more than one engine.

The ''7'' and ''8'' hp are not related to power output ( which was 17bhp) they are calculated figure based on engine dimensions on which annual road tax was levied in Britain. Perhaps a bit like the CV system the French used eg Citroen 2CV.


george

Marcel wrote:Is inside the iron line `quecksilber` ? (the same liquid is in a classical thermometer)

Hi Marcel,
Post a photograph of the 'temperature sensor', so that we know what we are talking about.

Do you have the instruction book for your 1936 Jowett? It says how to set the tappets and much more technical advice, including the valve and ignition timing.

If it is a WP engine, then perhaps David (Morris) could help with:- 2 3/4" ATV BEF. Ignition T.D.C.

Tony.

Hello Forumadmin,
sorry for my bad english, but I give best effort.
I want to know, if I can screw the pressure line from the temperature display off?
Thank you for giving Informations from my engine!



Hello Georg,
okay, now i know a litte bit the meaning of the engine numer, thank you.
What a pitty, that it is not the original engine, but at least it runs! that is also important!


Hello Tony,
Yes, I hava a industruction book for my 1936 Jowett!

Here a picture:

Hello Marcel.

Thank you for the photo. The gauge that you have marked as 'screw off' in red is the oil pressure gauge. This is not a temperature gauge, it reads the engine oil pressure in pounds per square inch, and the pipe that comes out from the back is connected to the pressure release valve (PRV) at the back of the engine. We have talked about this PRV before in a previous post with a pencil drawing of the valve itself. Tony.

Hi Marcel,
As Tony says, the connection is for oil pressure. So you can disconnect this provided the engine is NOT RUNNING. So stop the engine before disconnecting.

Als Tony sagt, ist der Anschluss für Öldruck. So können Sie dies sofern der Motor nicht läuft trennen. So stoppen Sie den Motor vor dem Abschalten.

OH sorry, I have posted the wrong picrure. The picture was made, as the Jowett was still complete.
soon I search the right picture and post it here!

Thank you for Information.

Kind Regards