Great SC rebuild.......

[Jack]

Hi Leo,

My understanding is that we have got some trim for the beading, however this is likely to only be in place for the short term - it is black and should be brown for the colour of car (or at least the rest of the leather is going to be brown so I think should be to match)

The beading was bought ready to fit from a supplier, though I haven't seen it in the flesh - Keith should be able to advise what it looks like and how much material there will be to go between panels.

I think Keith has done piping work on his car previously, which seems to be holding up well and look good, there was some mention of using a length of rope and some leather to do this, not sure if this is still the plan for the SC.

Once we have got back from the rally we will be working on the trim, the seat needs reupholstering, the trim will be covered by brown material, and we will have to work on the various boot liners etc to protect the car.

Jack.

[Forumadmin]

http://www.rubbertrim.co.uk/download.htm
and if you want colour
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/378 ... ed-details

or
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-303-vinyl-covered.aspx

As Jack says we may have a volunteer to fit leathercloth in trim colour later.

[Forumadmin]

Early night tonight only 11.20pm. Chris, Jack and Amy have just left.
We hit a major problem with the water pump which as I suspected is 1 cm too short and consequently the fan belt does not line up after Amy and I fitted the dynamo.

If Bill cannot replace it we will have to fit the modified Javelin one without a fan.

Otherwise progress on the body with Chris stone chip painting the wings and filling the bonnet.

Jack wired up the indicators and we did a test with the multimeter. Amy started to fit the drain plugs but noticed a missing split pin which needed drilling out and replacing.

Amy sand blasted the headlamp and horn bowls and painted the headlamp ones.

We removed the SC windscreen from the SA and I removed all its paint.

[Forumadmin]

Early morning to check dimensions on water pump. Have we discovered a difference between SA and SC?

Measuring from the inside of the pulley to the metal of the rubber ring support is 333mm on SA and 320 on the pump supplied by Bill.

However measuring from the fan base (where the blade meets the boss) and the inside of the pulley SA= 429 and SC=427. So not much difference and probably within tolerance.

The fan support may be the problem and I am wondering if at some stage I swapped this between SC and SA. The one on the SA is quite far forward with the rubber ring sitting at the back of the support. On the SC the rubber ring would be 1 cm too far forward and outside support. So do I just swap them over. Will have to check after work.

[Chris Spencer]

It would appear that most members who use the forum can not get enough of the updates on the SC progress - and we at 'Team SC' / 'Clements Restoration Challanges Limited' are truely hightened to see just short of 100 hits per day on the forum - following our little task.

Hopefully you are finding it interesting and entertaining - but at sometime in the future the story is going to come to a close - there will still be updates once the SC gets back from the rally (we have get there first) as many things will still be left to do / complete - such as the retrimming / finishing touches etc - but not at the frantic pace that we find ourselves in at present !

The real purpose of my present topic is to encourage a member /members who are just about to commence a restoration, to post the challange / progress on the forum so that we can all follow it. This takes a few minutes to update everytime you make a little progress - In return you get the morale support of other forum members / readers - helpful hints from members who have already been there and got the tee shirt - physical help when and if you need it - points of contact from members who can recommend suppliers etc.

Unfortunatly I can not commence the restoration of my 8 HP in earnest as I have a appartment to complete the building works to and house move all planned in the next 12 months - dependant upon where we move to / what we purchase - I more than likely will have a garage / workshop / studio to build so the 8 restoration is a couple of years away yet - but one of you must be planning or just commencing a restoration - does not have to be a complete rebuild - could just be a retrim or paint work or chassis rebuild.

Any takers ??

[Jack]

Well, after a late start from me, I managed to get a couple of things done on the electrics.

I am writing this lot down while it is still fresh and for the record really, we will need to update the wiring diagram for the car with the changes that have been made. I appreciate it's not the most interesting subject on earth, and probably only really applies to our car due to it being a bit different and the couple of modifications that have been made to the loom, but if you are a wiring geek then stick with it.

First job I had decided to do was to remove the "spare" green wire that we had running from the right hand side to left hand side of the switch plate. It was bothering me, even though it made no difference to anything.

I did realise, however, that we needed power for the indicators, and that wire could provide it in a rather neat fashion. So 5 minutes later I had disconnected the wires from the switches and had worked out where I had gone wrong. The major difficulty in doing this late at night is that the diagram is looking from the front of the car, and while doing the wiring I am looking from the back. This means everything gets swapped left to right, and I had basically in all the confusion managed to wire up one extra wire to the left terminal thinking it was the right one. My mistake was very obvious at 9pm, at 11pm the other night it really wasn't.

Anyhow, there is power now from the fuel gauge circuit to the flasher unit (green wire, same as all the power wires to and from the fuel gauge). A wire comes from the flasher unit to the tell tale indicator light (black with green) and from the tell tale light to the trafficator switch (black with green).

From the trafficator switch there are two wires, one green with red, and another green with white. These are connected to the green with red and green with white wires respectively, which then go into the main loom. These wires go from the dashboard to the front and back indicators, two to the right hand side, and two to the left.

These have all now been wired up, and me and Keith were able to start doing some of the testing on the indicators, which seem to come on when the knob is turned, and go off when it is not, and only the green and red are connected in one direction, and green and white in the other. Which is nice, as that is what indicators are supposed to do. They also seem to flash, another good idea. One note for others testing wiring, it's a good idea when checking indicators at the front to make sure that the wires for the back indicators aren't earthing on the body That leads to some slightly confusing results and lots of checking of earths and other wires.

My next job will be to sort the panel lights (quick job, hopefully less than an hour) and connect the panel lights to the adjuster knob. Now this is one of the mysteries about what the additional holes in the dash are for - we have 2-3 additional holes against original spec, which are quite obviously not cut at the factory - they aren't perfectly round and smooth. One of the extra holes is for a dashboard dimmer switch, the other is for a heater adjustment switch - this will effectively send less power to the electric fan in the heater box, reducing the warm air output. Neither were, according to the wiring diagram and the holes I have in the dashboard, original, but frankly it's easier to put a knob in a hole and have some more functionality than to fill the hole in the dash now it's painted I don't think we were ever aiming for concourse with this car, it is far more about having a good car for driving and which is comfortable, reliable and fun. I'd be happy with two out of three

Dimmer switches were tested before installation in order to make sure they actually dim, and will go all the way to off in the case of the dashboard lights. They all work, and it will.

The wiring for the dashboard lights will be power from the loom as expected, to the dimmer switch, and then from the dimmer switch to the 5 bulbs across the back of the gauges. This should be simple enough.

All being well I am heading to Weymouth for a weekend of diving, leaving Amy, Keith and Chris working on the car in peace. I've taken Tuesday off, and have grand plans to make significant progress through the day and try and get as much as possible of the wiring loom sorted - at present there seems little standing in the way of having everything sorted for testing late Tuesday and identifying any issues. It also keeps me out of the way for them to get the engine finished off, and the panels into place, and then I can come back and sit in a nice comfortable seat, hopefully in the car, to do the rest of the wiring in the dashboard on Tue.

Jack.

[Forumadmin]

Picked up the remaining rubber from Edgware Rubber and Trim.
This is the list
227 x3m for boot channel
4.5x1.2 GMV x 4m for SC screen (T1209)
T84 x1m window channel
T96 x1m weatherstrip door`
Felt 1.5 x2m quarter light
T55 x3m piping door
8mm piping x10m wings
625 x3.5m for SA screen
25x1.5 x1m center SC screen
Chrome PVC filler x4m for SC screen

added today- small piping for under quarter light x1m
2 inch wide T piping under windscreen x1.4m

[Amy]

Well I've just returned home and am waiting for my bath to fill, so thought I'd add a quick update.

Dad has started to list remaining tasks by day - we managed to get through the majority of tonight's list, and we have:

- bled and adjusted the brakes. Where on earth quite so much air came from, I'm not sure, but it took the best part of an hour and a half of bleeding to get it all out. We're now happy that we have decent brakes that will stop the car. Phew!

(Note to all: when carrying out this exercise, beware who else may be in earshot. Sample of conversation from tonight's brake bleed:

Dad: "pump hard, now!"

Me: "It's a bit slack on the first pump but getting stiffer")



Next on the list (after dinner) was the handbrake. Dad did a lot of lying under the car and swearing. I wasn't much use in the process, so took it upon myself to clean and paint the horns - you know, the ones that didn't work (til a certain Yorkshireman had a play, anyway ). They were utterly covered in filth - and that after I'd cleaned them with diesel a couple of weeks ago. However, one is now hanging to dry in the garage, the other is waiting for Hammeriting tomorrow morning.

Bill Lock should hopefully be dropping by tomorrow with a different water pump - consultations on the phone seem to suggest that the crucial 1/2" or so that is causing the difficulties should be present on the one Bill has, so fingers crossed that a simple swap will sort the problems we've had with the fitting.

I can't remember what's on the list for tomorrow, but it's bath time for me to try and remove some of the Hammerite I managed to spray on myself...

Amy.

[Forumadmin]

So an open day at the garage. Food and drink provided to anybody who attends.
Petrol system is next on the list, followed by wiring check. Then fit new water pump.

I found another drain plug. So fixing the old one that was missing a washer and pin is postponed till the next rebuild!

Hope to get all the electrics completed so we can start the engine tomorrow.

[Forumadmin]

Started by checking out the petrol system found two leaks and removed and resoldered offending pipe.

How did we do this? Took carb float chambers off and jammed two stubby screw drivers to hold float valves closed. Attached air hose at about 10 psi to the petrol filler with some duct tape. Brushed 50% water 50% washing up liquid on all the joints.
However, then checked to see if air was getting past pump it was not! So connected battery to the pump. Charger would not drive it! Pump clicked OK but still no air. Eventually resolved the pump valve must be blocked so swapped pump. A good pump should move a bit of newspaper when pumping.

Then discovered petrol glass filter bowl was making a few bubbles. So put a smear of joint sealer on glass rim and that fixed it.

This was a very worthwhile exercise as you can imaging how much petrol would have been lost removing pipes and pump with floor and body on! And soldering with petrol filled pipes!

Then took off offending water pump; but decided to try to fix pump, so stopped Bill and Diana making the journey on some very clogged roads. I ground off the welds around the ring. Then using the boss of a broken water impeller to protect the end of the outer shaft broke the weld. Then positioned the ring correctly as it was 1 cm out and rewelded. Painted and now refitted with original Jup support bracket. The one supplied by Bill was still too short.

Meanwhile Chris had been completing prep of the bonnet and doors as well as numerous other body parts. Whilst waiting for paint or filer to dry he flatted back the one part of the body that had suffered some minor sinkage with 1500 grit paper with soap and water. Then Tcut. Looks great.

Bonnet, doors and screens have been etch primed, and two coats of primer filler. I completed two bits of welding on a door cap prior to welding the water pump. Also did some sand blasting on the front valence.

Amy completed horn and headlights, adding wiring. Then extended the earth to the rear and through petrol sender, petrol pump and up to main loom under dash. Jack you have some competition!

Petrol and water will go in tomorrow, so hopefully, if there are no leaks, we may get Napolean started. Body shop will also be extended to allow more space for all the panels.

There was a teenage party going on next to the garage, so what they must have thought with all the activity in the garage at 11 at night I hate to think.

[Chris Spencer]

Saturady 1st May: Final reshaping & prep of bonnet was completed prior to preparing the underside for paint. I had previously sprayed the underside of the four wings with a black anti stone chip paint - this is an overpaintable low profile protection and gives a better & more durable finish than underseal.

The two front wings and the bonnet undersides were sprayed up in primer prior to a couple of coats of white. No we are not doing two tone but Keith has had many years of being stuck at the roadside with his head under a Jupiter bonnet and advocates that the white underside helps with light reflection.

While waiting for the paint to dry I prepared the both SA & SC window frames for primer. Then was totaly shocked by finding not one but two undamaged, undented panels for the car that simply just required rubbing down and painting. These are the flitch panels that attach either side between the bonnet and lower front wings. Keith being equally suprised as these are the panels that always take the knocks !

The bonnet was turned over and the white underside masked off. The window frames were hung up along with the two doors and the flitch panels. Etching primer was sprayed to each panel after it had been spirit wiped and tacked off. With two coats of the etch primer applied - dinner interviened after which three heavy coats of primer filler were applied ready for guide coats this morning.

More later.

[Chris Spencer]

Sunday 2nd May - I will let Keith & Amy update you on the electrical / mechanical progress - Jack made no progress at all as he had gone AWOL for the weekend - something to do with blowing bubbles !!

Black guide coats were added to the panels primed yesterday whilst Keith moved more boxes of bits in order to enlarge the painting area - after finding several things he did not know he owned and a bout of sweeping up the bonnet and doors were moved into the newly vacated space.

All the wings were assembled on to a timber tressle along with the bootlid and several minor parts that also required painting. Once cleaned off with panel wipe and all dust removed on went two coats of etching primer after which several coats of high build primer and a guide coat.

Once dry the panels were removed and the bonnet brought back into the paintshop were several hours of blocking and flatting back with 400 wet & dry was undertaken. This is a large panel and the most visable to the vehicle - it is worth taking the time and care to get the preperation correct. Before leaving tonight I stoppered any minor imperfections - these shall be flatted back in the morning prior to another coat of primer.

More to follow on Monday.

[Forumadmin]

Having trouble remembering what I did yesterday. Thanks Chris for reminding me.

Still cannot find the outer tube of one of the bonnet supports. All other tubes, springs and cable are there. Anybody assist?

Cannot find the fixing for the petrol filler cap seal which seems to be a thread reducer from 5/8 cycle thread to a 2 BA?

Put in the earth, with Amy's assistance, to all the components. Note that separate cable is not earthed to chassis near the engine as then the starter current might choose to go down that lower resistance wire than take the chassis route.

Filled tank with petrol but had to take off pipe to pump and blow through to remove air lock (using air line as per bubble test).

One float valve was loose and thus flooded a carb.

Whilst Amy started cleaning, assembling and wiring in the lights, I checked over the el;ectrics in prep for starting. Which we tried without success. Still trying to figure out why.

I am saying no more till I found out! Off to garage now.

[Forumadmin]

Just finished another 14 hrs less lunch and dinner on the car. The valve timing was not correct because the flywheel marks were not correct. Possibly because the flywheel was on 180deg out. Anyway redid the valve timing with dial gauge. Now have 150psi compression on all cylinders on starter and the spark coincides with compression stroke.

Still not firing; had to rewire the distributor cap, fixed a leaking oil pressure gauge pipe,and had to reseat the other float chamber valve. (maybe the pump is too high a pressure?)

Checked ignition timing yet again; but could not do much more testing as Chris was spraying final coat on some of the body parts. Need to check the spark as I think it is weak.

Amy did the back and front lights; but has left the indicators for Jack who returned about 9 and fixed a few more bits of electrics.

Have to finish the engine compartment tomorrow as the bonnet has to go back on!

[Chris Spencer]

Monday 3rd May 2010 - Stopper was flatted back on the bonnet and another two coats of primer applied and guide coat afterwards whilst drying both of the doors were flatted back with wet and dry prior to another two coats of primer and a guide coat.

Back to the bonnet which was reflatted and dryed followed by the two doors which recieved the same treatment. The SC windscreen frame was next for flatting, reprimer, reflatting and several minor items - air cleaners - air cleaner stack tubes, bell covers for the horns, flitch plates for the bonnet / lower wings, internal lock cover for the boot lid etc.

Once every thing was positioned so that I could spray them from all directions / underneath etc (small items are a pain to support whilst spraying but I have a system of stiff wire, pop rivets and length of timber that works most of the time) every panel was blown off ensuring that no water from the rubbing down was trapped in the masking or between panel gaps etc.

All items were panel wiped with spirit twice prior to being tack clothed. Equally just as much effort must be made with the spraying area - keeping it free from dust, damping down floors with water, earthing panels against static charge (static attracts airborne dust). The paint mixing area must be clean along with mixing tools, tins, spraygun etc and banish anyone to within 100 metres of the spraying area who has a tin of WD40 / wax cloths etc - this will play havoc with wet paint and the surface it is being applied to.

This all takes time and do not rush - it will only show in the quality of the paint finish if you rush it and take short cuts. Hence by the time I got five coats of paint on the panels, cleaned the spraygun, washed up and got home -it was 23.30 - a long day and few more to come yet - but we are getting there !!