Javelin sump.

[TedAllen]

I'm just in the process of changing my sump due to a pinhole leak in the one on the car.
It's roughly diagonnally opposite the drain plug.
I have a good spare which looks as though it's had some water in it and is a little rusty inside. I've cleaned it up with a few different rotary wire brushes and it's now resting with an inch or so of white spirit, on a clean bit of cardboard, to check for leaks.
The question. Is it worth painting the inside with something, if so, what is best ?
Or do I just leave it and let the oil protect it ?
I'll weld the other one up when it's off the car.

Regards to all
Ted

[Forumadmin]

Do not paint inside. Oil is chemically active and you do not want flakes of paint clogging up the pump and filter.

You can paint the outside, matt black being the best for heat dissipation.

Fit a magnet into your drain plug to collect the metal.

Perhaps fit baffles if you are doing welding to stop oil shooting up the crankcase breather when you brake hard. I have a hinged flap that closes on forward oil movement but opens when horizontal.

I also have a cover over the whole inside, apart from hole for pump intake to keep the oil covering the intake on hard cornering. This is almost a flat aly plate laying on top of the already installed baffles. I did this after I lost oil pressure doing the long bend around Snetterton Race circuit.

[TedAllen]

Thanks for that...I've never painted inside a sump in the past because of the risk of oil degrading the paint.
I wondered, really, if anything new had arrived which would do the job.
I'm quite happy to leave it.
I've not done any serious braking or cornering for years !
I normally paint the outside in black smoothrite to match the car but if matt is better then I'll use that.

Thanks
Ted

[Drummond Black]

Ted, Paint outside but definately do not paint inside. In due course the hot oil will lift the paint off and then could choke the oil pump inlet gauze leading to all sorts of trouble. I do not think the interior of the sump will corrode any further. I can find you a reasonably good sump if required.
All I need to do is drain the whisky back into a bottle.

Drumond

[TedAllen]

I didn't realise you got it in bottles, Drummond. I thought you use tanker delivery !

I've just primed the outside of the new one and taken the leaking one off while it's drying. I wasn't thinking so much as paint but something to kill the rust. I'll leave it as it is, it's easy enough to put the other one back if the new one eventually leaks. I'll weld a patch on the leaky one when I've got time. Thanks for the offer.
Just put the doors back on after repairing the jack point and fitting a new bottom hinge...corroded away, not much left of it. I'll ring JCS tonight for a gasket and other bits.

Hope Ruby and everyone is fine. we're expecting another ankle biter in May or June....will they ever learn ?

Ted

[Drummond Black]

Take Keiths point regarding fitting a magnet to your sump plug. It is amaZing what it will collect. I bore a blind hole and araldite a magnet into it. Cheap to do but cost effective. I even do it for the gearbox plug. Bought a pile of round magnets on-line.

[TedAllen]

Yes, I will. good idea......need all the help you can get nowadays.

Ted

[Forumadmin]

The gearbox and diff are probably more important as there are no filters to remove all those sharp slivers of hardened steel. The magnets always look like a mad hair-do after a few thousand miles.

Some idiots pay £70 to wrap a magnet around their oil filters after believing stories of needing Niobium magnets with 1000000 gauss directed in a certain special field. I hope I have not offended anyone that has bought one!

[Drummond Black]

Still got to modify rear end. ( AXLE ) This will be done prior to the Rally. I think the magnets were about £2 each. Cheap at the price.

[Tony Fearn]

Hi Ted.

I took Bob Mercer over to Bernard's in Chorley last weekend as he's helping Bernard to assemble the parts of his re-conditioned engine.

When we came to attaching the sump I noticed that the holes around the sump flange,which fit over the studs on the casing, were raised and proud. This would mean that if the sump was bolted up, there might have been oil loss between the casing and the sump even with a new gasket on.

I took the sump into the garage, and using a large ball-pein hammer (round end) and a 5/16th socket trapped at the edge of the vice, tapped the proud bits so that the flange all around the sump finished up quite flat, checking with a fine file.

I hope I'm not 'telling Grandma how to suck eggs' but thought the tip might be useful to others if not yourself.

Regards,

Tony.

[Forumadmin]

Yes and do not torque the sump nuts more than one turn past pinching the gasket because you will just do the same and squeeze the gasket out.

[TedAllen]

Indeed, Tony...that's just what I did today over a block of steel in the vice, before I primed the outside .
Ordered a gasket tonight together with a rear timing cover to start building a spare engine when the car's back rolling. Got to bleed the brakes, fit a new back bumper assembly, connect the engine cables and electrics and gear linkages. Can't do too long in the cold, my thumbs go dead ! Still looking for a good set of late front wings...the ones on are not too bad but have been repaired rather clumsily. Can't look a gift horse etc, Very kindly sold to me by Tom when I went to buy some bumpers off him. Without them, it'd be a mess !
Not much for sale in the Jowetteer these days.....it was full of stuff 30 yrs ago !

Regards.

[chapman]

Hi Ted, Last time I was at JCC spares they had wings which were better than the ones I gave you, give Ian a ring it may save you a lot of welding
Too cold to go in the shed at the moment

[TedAllen]

Thanks for that lead Tom...I'll give them a call on Monday.
I've fitted the nearside of those two but it stands out from the door a noticable bit. I didn't want to spend money on a proper spray but it came up reasonably with aerosols for now.

Ted

[TedAllen]

So, posted February 1st about my sump and I've only just fitted the replacement today........how lazy is that ? To be fair, I blame the weather. My old thumbs just don't like gripping things when they're freezing and , of course, I've had other things to do.

Now, what engine oil would you guys recommend ? There are so many different ones on the market and the specs have changed over the years.
Would you think I should start her up with a cheaper oil in case there are any major leaks ? I once had a new engine blow the lot out due to a stuck relief valve !

Finally, fuel pump. I have an electric one fitted, it's an old one from a pal who has a Morris Minor business. I think it's had it, so what would anyone recommend to replace it. Or would a new electronic Minor one do the job.

The car is negative earth and the pump is at present fitted on the offside inner wing just in front of the horn.

Just filled her with water up to the top of the timing cover and there's only one tiny leak, from the o/s drain cock...easy enough.

Any thoughts ?
Regards
Ted