Great SC rebuild.......

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:08 pm

When I had the Javelin stripped down some years ago, I extended the little ' shelf ' for the battery to become a shallow box
What might apply to you Jupiter guys and gals is that I found a shallow rubber 'tray ' which a 55 amp hr battery just fitted in.
This was standard fitting on Ladas, getting a bit rare now, but I guess other manufacturers might fit them.
Stops the battery chafing on the metal.
Good luck with the rebuild.

Ted

Post by **Forumadmin** » Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:23 pm

Length of right part of hinge 159.76mm
Length of left part of hinge 42.41mm
Width at widest part 21.49 mm
pitch between centre and right holes 75.00 mm
pitch between centre and left holes 60.00 mm

But what is it ?

The two missing boot hinges for the SC. Needed fairly urgently so we can line up all the rear metal work.

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:59 pm

You may like to have a look at the proposed mods to the SC wiring.
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/tech/mod ... elaysw.htm

Added are indicators, some earths, rear fog and reversing lamps, rad fan and relays for high power circuits. Note also change to clock wiring so that it is fused (eliminating a potential fire hazard) and indicator so that it can warn of hazards when ignition off.

Note you can pan and zoom on the web page to see the detail.

I might also add wiring for washer pump and switch, electric tachometer, interior reading lamp, boot illumunator, head temperature sensors and overdrive as in the SA, just in case we get around to it.

I also want to put all the relays and fuses inside the car where they are not exposed to all the oxidising agents. OK so it will not win the concours but this car is going to be used a lot.

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:55 pm

Drummond has just sent me his SA diagram, which is almost as complex as my SA. However, some slight additions I might employ. He has a relay on the ignition circuit that stops all but the coil power and Petrol pump going through the switch. This is good as they are troublesome.

As well as separate relays for head/dip/spot, he also has a relay switching the head/dip/spot circuits which switches them all off with the ignition. But I guess there is more chance of leaving sidelights on! I have Circuit breaker to switch everything off so can never leave a parking light on.

Drummond Black · Post by **Drummond Black** » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:01 pm

Yes Keith, I have all the additions that you are considering and still won a concours. All EXTRAS & Mods are hidden under dash to make the car appear as Original.

vicboddy · Post by **vicboddy** » Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:36 pm

Re Boot hinges on SC.

Yes, the SC boot hinges are exactly the same as those fitted to the AH 100/6 and 3000.

I have a SC, and a 3009 MK1, and I have already fitted the Healey hinges to the SC.

All best Vic

Post by **Forumadmin** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:36 pm

Getting close to finalising the wiring on the SC.
see http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/tech/mod ... ematic.htm
and
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/tech/mod ... tracer.htm

just have the wire list to complete so have to work out all the amperages and wire sizes

Note you can 'Go to Page' to see details and zoom in and pan on the schematic.

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:44 am

Anybody spot a possible problem with the overdrive latch and also with the battery cut-off and clock?
There, a little problem to test your electrickery.

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:35 am

Updated schematic of wiring with cut-off and clock repositioned, overdrive relay latch added so that switches do not take overdrive current, alternator page added.
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/tech/mod ... pdated.htm

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:37 pm

Spent the afternoon looking at the switches and trying to get the key to turn and then come out of the ignition switch. It took a couple of hours of dismantling, wiggling and soaking in WD40 to free it. I was on the point of giving up when the magic WD40 did the trick.

The panel has a couple of rheostats for panel lights and heater which I will utilise. A period push switch already fitted to the panel will be used for the washer and the original heater and panel light switches will be used for rear fog and spot. Not sure yet what to do about the hazard switch and indicactor warning. A neat solution would be a small push button and LED on the indicator switch.

I will need to fit another push button or momentary toggle for the overdrive. This might go on the column which had an indicactor switch fitted or I could fit a foot switch next to the dip, the latter might be more aesthetically pleasing; but the left foot may get confused! The SA has a long toglle switch that needs little movement off the steering wheel to operate.

I have been looking at 12V LEDs and will fit those instead of original incandesent warning lamps, except ignition as that needs to draw current for alternator sense.

Next task it to work on the wiring physical layout and wire lengths.

However, I am still contemplating using LEDS at the rear as having to add rear fogs, indicators and reversing lights will make the rear cluttered. Some LED panels either side of the number plate should look acceptable and accomodate orange, red and white LEDS hidden behind a perspex panel or suitable square rear lamp cluster. They could go behind the perspex of the number plate as TTD88 is a short number!

Drummond Black · Post by **Drummond Black** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:46 pm

FROM PAST EXPERIENCE !!!!!. Watch that ignition switch, it may give problems at a later date. Happened on my original Javelin and I was stuck in the wilds, having to bridge wire to get home. The tumblers wear due the the regular use of worn keys. Do you have any good spares ??

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:13 am

No spares at all. Hence the effort getting it to work.

Drummond Black · Post by **Drummond Black** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:44 pm

Re the Ignition Switch on the SC, is it the same as a Mk 1 Jupiter or Javelin. ??
Lucal Model PLC 6.

If so I found some in the garage this morning. No keys though but have the key numbers.

Drummond

vicboddy · Post by **vicboddy** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:11 pm

Hello Keith, Drummond,

I believe that the original headlight/ignition switch on the SC is not the same as on the later Javelins, and is black whilst I think that all SA are white. The SC switch has a chrome ring at the back, to match the gauges, I am not sure that there a chrome ring on the equivalent Javelin switch.

This being said, as mine was missing, I have used a Javelin switch, it fitted OK after a very light filing of the space in the dashboard. I feel it looks better than a new switch I got from Holden's, which is too flashy.

Regards Vic

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:34 pm

This is close but perhaps not close enough as the SC switch is 36 mm hole. The Lucas number of the original is 31270B - 8 -52 or PRS3.
Ignition/light switch. 6 position. Park, off, ignition, side, dip & beam.
25mm fixing hole.Includes 2 keys. Ref: 35112. Â£33.70 each
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... rotary.php

Just missed a PRS 3 on ebay! It fits the AUSTIN A40 SOMERSET but the front bezel does not look the same so perhaps they fitted different plastic fronts to the same switch mechanism. It was also on the standard Javelin according to Google which came up with http://keithclements.co.uk/jowettnet/dt ... ook/39.pdf when I put PRS3 into Google search. Amazing. Should have looked there first.

Also perhaps the series I and series II Land Rovers.

The SC switch Panel. The Lucas number of the on-off switches is PS7.

JowettTalk

Great SC rebuild.......

WANTED.

Jup Wiring.

SC REBUIILD

SC REBUILD