1930 Long Four 'Repair'

[ian Howell]

First of all - thanks to those persons who very kindly replied to my direct requests for information and many others who have responded to previous requests (You all know who you are!).

Putting the same points to what I know is a wider audience, I would like any information on the following points if they are relevant to YOUR car or if you have knowledge of the point in question.

My car is now in a 'driveable chassis' form but the bodywork is still 'As found'!

Specific points I would like answers for (please!) are: -

1/ The car had been in a serious rear-end ‘shunt’ at some time well before it came off the road, and there are metal ‘D’ section angle brackets about 10â€

[Tony Fearn]

Hello again Ian.

I can only comment on point no. 1, and it relates to my custodianship of the 1927 long two ('known to the family as "Dolly") which was originally, and whilst in my keeping, registered FB 5837, but which now has a different owner.

There were D-section angle brackets holding the 'B' posts to the floor as you mention, (it was a two-seater). I've a feeling that they were forged rather than just bent so that there was much more stiffness in them.

In my opinion they were original.

As for the side lights - are there no front wing supports? If there are, then this should help you to ascertain why the holes are in the wings.

Point no.4 I read somewhere that there was a sort of travelling salesman option for vintage Jowetts which had access to the rear compartment from outside, perhaps others might comment.

Once again I'll direct you to Mr. I.P.. A phone call might just sort out everything you're asking about.

Regards,

Tony.

[TedAllen]

Hi Tony, My neighbour across the road took in a Jowett 7 Commercial travellers car as PX against something old that he had. It had a long flattish boot with a cover held in place by those ' turn locks'...same as fitted to 8hp boot lids, with chrome covers. I can't remember which way the lid was hinged, if at all. It was a fairly dark blue with black wings and, of course, a two seater. I think it was about 1926. He kept it a while but then swapped it for a 1926 Willys Overland Crossley lorry to a chap in Whitworth, Rochdale. There was a brewery in Blackburn, not far from you, that had a Manchester lorry which was the same with a different name . Sadly, I don't have any piccies of Jowett or trucks.
Ted

[ian Howell]

Many thanks Tony (again!) and Ted.

As the man says - "Every little helps!"

At present I am battling with the cylinder heads that persist on leaking even with new gaskets AND having been checked on a surface plate AND the head studs having been re-cut to give a good 'grip'.

Cylinder faces are clean and don't appear to be cracked or distorted.

More later!!

[Tony Fearn]

Hi Ian.

Roy Braddock told me that when you've taken a pre-war Jowett engine to pieces and tightened it all up again, and put it back in the chassis for use, it is perhaps a good thing to put some 'radweld' - type stuff in the radiator and run the engine to distribute it.

There are a few types on the market, so the proverbial 'egg white' of the thirties has been superceded!

I did this with the 'FF' and it seemed to work.

Before I did it I reverse-flushed the radiator for a good 5 minutes prior to connecting the pipes.

Don't forget to add a good antifreeze solution that's ok for aluminium engines.
This should reduce the electrolysis effect between the aluminium manifold and the cast iron cylinder heads, and limit the disintegration of the manifold just above the fixing flange.

(George, can you corroborate this last statement?)

I know "the devil is in the detail", but just get it going and worry about the detail later.

Regards,

Tony.

[Forumadmin]

Leaking head gaskets are best cured by applying some Hylomar or similar during assembly to the water and oil parts of the gasket and not to the cylinder (gas seal) part. Of course this depends on the type of gasket as some modern ones have the sealer built in and need to be heated to fully seal them.

[k. rogers]

Having had experience with both head gaskets on my 7 leaking slowly over a period of time (both modern replacements) I was fortunate enough to obtain some original Payen gaskets which have made all the difference - the car now starts on both cylinders no matter how long it has been left, ie months!! These also fitted over the studs like a glove as opposed to the very tight fit I experienced with the copies - is it possible they distorted because of this or is the asbestos a better material?

[ian Howell]

Thanks for tips!

At the moment I am not working on the car as my wife is poorly, but I hope to get back to it soon.

TONY: - It IS going (just!) I will email you a short video to prove it!

Regards to all - especially any in Eastern Australia.

[george garside]

[quote="

Don't forget to add a good antifreeze solution that's ok for aluminium engines.
This should reduce the electrolysis effect between the aluminium manifold and the cast iron cylinder heads, and limit the disintegration of the manifold just above the fixing flange.

(George, can you corroborate this last statement?)

I know "the devil is in the detail", but just get it going and worry about the detail later.

Regards,

Tony.[/quote

Tony - yes definately useful to use a modern antifreeze with corrosion inhibiters starting with perhaps as high as 50/50 mixture to allow for evaporation in non pressurised system so a reasonable amount of topping up can be done without weekening mixture too much - alternatively carry gallon of ready mixed water/antifreze for topping up. Its the corrosion inhibiters that are really important and to maintain these the coolant needs changing evry couple of years irrespective of mileage & it should not be left for long drained off. Re recent query about alluminium heads their life should be more or less indefinate given the corrosion inhibiters in modern top qualityantifreeze

george

[TedAllen]

Roy Braddock also told me to use yacht varnish on head gaskets before fitting. This was in relation to the Javelin Copper ones. I did use it and it seemed to make a good seal. Don't know if anyone out there has done this.
Ted

[ian Howell]

Tony, Ken, George, Ted, Alan et al: - Here is the video of my son trying to drive the car. Look for the panic when he tries to stop! The handbrake is on the 'wrong' side for him!

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v722/ ... ndmove.flv

[Tony Fearn]

Wonderful Ian,

That's what you need.

To see it moving under its own power after years in limbo surely is exhilarating. It'll be all downhill from here on in.

When you get to the stage of attaching a silencer it will be even better (belm).

Keep it up,

Tony.

[ian Howell]

Ah. Well. Yes. Now - it has a silencer but I think I have overcooked the exhaust pipe a bit!

I used standard pipe that fitted the stubs that were fitted to the engine - about 1 1/4" bore, and with a silencer of similar calibre. I suppose that is the equivalent of 'big bore'! I had to bend the pipe by hand with help from a small blowlamp to make the 'Y' piece. The joint was very fiddley.

Perhaps more important is the fact that it stops just for'ard of the back axle so I have to be careful not to scorch the new floorboards.

The absence of the 'Jowett' script on the radiator is deliberate. I have completed one to your pattern Tony and it looks just right, but I have promised myself that it will only go on when the car is useable.

All on hold for a couple of weeks now as I will be working away from home.

[ian Howell]

I THINK I have got to the bottom of the water leak problem. I made up a blanking plate and put air pressure tests on the 'pot' and head separately - no leaks.

Then I made a rubber head gasket and fitted it - no leaks.

SO, I conclude that it must be the head gasket, but for the life of me I can't see any sign of weakness in the gasket or distortion in the head or 'pot'.

The next move is to try the suggestion about Hylomar around the water ports.