Cleaning out old grease from kingpin.

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rob needs
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Cleaning out old grease from kingpin.

Post by rob needs »

Ive read on here that you can pump some cheap oil in the top greaser and it will push out the old grease.

I have two greasers on the offside kingpin,but only one on the near side.There is some sideways movement on this one,the mot bloke let it go thou.

I think the grease isn't getting down to the bottom of the kingpin,cant remember any coming out at the bottom when i greased it a couple of weeks back.

I do have an unused kingpin,(there not handed are they?)
george garside
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Post by george garside »

I used to pump a copious amount of flushing oil through once a year, followed by normal greasing for rest of year. No reason why why a crap cheap multigrade shouldn't be used eg 20/40
george
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Post by Forumadmin »

It may not be a good idea to contaminate the grease with low pressure lubricants such as oil. Either pump through with just grease of the correct spec or disassemble and clean before re-greasing.

On older cars the seals are often not good; grit, causing fast deterioration, and water (causing rusting) can get in.

I fitted grease nipple at the centre of the king pin thus forcing grease out at both ends.
Drummond Black
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KING PIN GREASE

Post by Drummond Black »

Can I add my input into this topic. Like Keith I also fit extra grease nipples. Three per stub axle. One adjacent to each bush and one in the centre. This ensures that both bushes receive an ample amount of grease. Over many years of running Jowetts I found that one of the main causes of wear in the king pin and bush area was corrosion due to water and dirt entering the bushes via the thrust washer area. I reduced this considerably by fitting a shortened gaiter from a motorcycle front fork during assembly to cover the thrust washer. this should be a tight fit over the top casting and sealed with a jubilee clip. ( See photo ). The current king pins in the Jupiter have shown very little wear after 30,000 miles and were previously used on the Javelin. I only grease them once per year before the MOT. I use a good moly grease. The grease does not deteriorate to any degree and is only " Topped up " annually.

Comments PLEASE.
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TedAllen
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Post by TedAllen »

Pink steering gear ?.... Not too sure about you now buddy. What else have you been hiding from us ?
:lol: ted
Drummond Black
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KING PIN GREASE

Post by Drummond Black »

Glad that you noticed TED. Actually its Edwardian Purple. Its always been a good talking point, as you have just proved. :twisted:
TedAllen
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Post by TedAllen »

Edwardian Purple !!!! oooh, get you !
Ted :roll:
rob needs
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Post by rob needs »

I'm going to put another greaser in lower down the stub axle,i have a old stock swivel pin which is a nice fit.

If i stick to original sizes,what do i need,as in greaser size,size of tap,drill size ?
Drummond Black
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KING PIN GREASERS

Post by Drummond Black »

Rob, I would suggest that you obtain the new grease nipples first as threads may vary. 1/4 BSF is a common size on the king pins, but check first.
The tapping hole size for a 1/4 BSF tap is 5.30mm ( (0.209" dia ). Not a common size in the average drill box. 5.50mm can be used as it is not a critical stressed atachment, however drill out 5.0mm initially and then open out to 5.50mm. Drilling out 5.50mm from scratch will leave an oversize hole. Make sure to use tapping compound when threading.

Drummond
rob needs
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Post by rob needs »

Drummond,would you suggest that i drill all the way through at 5.5 and tap.I see on the top greaser it comes through in the middle of the bush.

When the other side had a extra greaser fitted,it was drilled just above the bottom bush.This works because i can see grease around the bottom.
Drummond Black
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King Pin Greasers

Post by Drummond Black »

Rob, You are perfectly correct. The top grease nipple aligns with the hole on the top bush to allow the grease to be pumped around the king pin.

I now fit THREE grease nipples. One at the top bush as above. One adjacent to the bottom bush ( align with hole in the bush ) and another in the centre which feeds the void between the two bushes. If you align the new nipples at a slight angle away from the brake back plate this allows you easier access with the grease gun at full lock. I will try and get another picture to show this better if I can get access to the Javelin. The easier it is to grease them, the more often you tend to do it !!.

Just drill and carefully tap all the way through the king pin after you have decided what threads you have on your new nipples.

If you have any other questions just let me know.

Regards Drummond
rob needs
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Post by rob needs »

I have got two grease nipples and they are 1/4 UNF thread,i have checked a chart and it looks like its the same drill bits to be used.

Drilling the hole for the bottom bush looks a bit difficult,is there just one hole in the bush? I'll have to check again,but i thought when i looked last time the hole was in a position where drilling wasn't a option.

I'm thinking becasue there was no nipple to fit at the bottom,this bush was just pressed in anywhere.
paul wilks
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King Pin Greasers

Post by paul wilks »

My Javelin (PD) with the earlier suspension has a grease nipple at the bottom bush but does the later suspension with rubber bushes need a grease nipple at the bottom? Wouldn't grease contaminate the bottom rubber bushes?

Just a thought. :?

Paul
Paul Wilks
David Morris
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Cleaning out old grease from kingpin.

Post by David Morris »

Hi there,

Two ( or even three ) grease nipples are better than one! Even with the later rubber-bushed front suspension, the swivel pin needs every bit of lubrication you can give it.

I have replaced the bottom rubber bushes on the later front suspension with polythene ones ( from an MGB's front suspension - Polybushes are easily available ) as the rubber ones only seem to last about five minutes!

They are the blue ones and are impervious to grease. They also seem to be very long lasting and I can recommend them.

All the best,

David
PAUL BEAUMONT
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Post by PAUL BEAUMONT »

David, I believe that Polybushes are Polyurethane, not Polythene. I might be wrong and would be pleased to be corrected.
Paul Beaumont
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