I’m having issues trying to remove the near-side head, the head appears to be stuck/jammed by the front bottom stud. It’s pulling away from the top of the block. Is there any trick I’ve missed.
Tried heating the head along the side, applying wd40 etc. pulling via the exhaust manifold while using the plante on the rocker studs at the same time
Bryan
Stuck head
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Bryan Walker
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Re: Stuck head
Usually means the water has leaked into the hole and rusted the stud. Heat is probably the best . You might be able to design a puller to push on the studs by winding nuts up on them. Half inch plate attached to rocker studs.
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David Morris
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Re: Stuck head
Hi Bryan, Do try what Keith has recommended, but I am always fearful of the delicate condition of the slender head studs and the aluminium block. I have seen too many blocks with cracks. THere may be another solution you could try? I assume the engine rotates? I would remove the spark plugs on the stuck cylinder head. Then get some fairly stout rope, something like what we in the UK call 'sash cord', used to hold the weights on old sash windows. It's about 4mm in diameter and strong.
Now feed this rope down at least one of the plug holes on the stuck head, preferably on the part of the head which is stuck, or down both plug holes, if the head is stuck along it's lower length. Then gently rotate the engine. The rope in the cylinder coming up to TDC will be compressed against the crown of the head, and, with a bit of good fortune, you should be able to exert enough pressure on the crankshaft pulley nut, or the teeth on the flywheel to 'encourage' the head to move against the stationary studs.
Initially, you will need to 'force feed' the cylinders with enough rope to fill the combustion chambers. If the head starts to move, you may need to add more rope? Obviously, you could also be applying heat and something a bit stronger than WD40, like PlusGas or acytone. At least, if this method fails, you can just pull the rope out!
I once had to remove the pistons and cylinders on my Jowett stationary engine. The rings and pistons had stuck tight onto the walls of the cylinders. I had a spare set of cylinders and pistons, but needed to get the corroded cylinders and pistons out. Threre was corrosion everywhere! I released the four nuts holding the cylinders onto the crankcase, and managed to get the two cylinder heads off. Knowing that I was going to change the pistons anyway, I got hold of some wood blocks that would fit into the bores, and projected just above the surface of the cylinders. I put back the cylinder heads and screwed down the head nuts, having locked the flywheel. Slowly, the cylinders moved upwards, away from the stationary pistons. Bit by bit, by adding more wood spacers, I drew the cylinders off the pistons. I replaced both pistons and fitted the replacement cylinders. Luckily, there was no damage and the engine now runs at 60lbs oil pressure, so the bearings survived!
I hope you have similar success with your Javelin engine!
All the best, David
Now feed this rope down at least one of the plug holes on the stuck head, preferably on the part of the head which is stuck, or down both plug holes, if the head is stuck along it's lower length. Then gently rotate the engine. The rope in the cylinder coming up to TDC will be compressed against the crown of the head, and, with a bit of good fortune, you should be able to exert enough pressure on the crankshaft pulley nut, or the teeth on the flywheel to 'encourage' the head to move against the stationary studs.
Initially, you will need to 'force feed' the cylinders with enough rope to fill the combustion chambers. If the head starts to move, you may need to add more rope? Obviously, you could also be applying heat and something a bit stronger than WD40, like PlusGas or acytone. At least, if this method fails, you can just pull the rope out!
I once had to remove the pistons and cylinders on my Jowett stationary engine. The rings and pistons had stuck tight onto the walls of the cylinders. I had a spare set of cylinders and pistons, but needed to get the corroded cylinders and pistons out. Threre was corrosion everywhere! I released the four nuts holding the cylinders onto the crankcase, and managed to get the two cylinder heads off. Knowing that I was going to change the pistons anyway, I got hold of some wood blocks that would fit into the bores, and projected just above the surface of the cylinders. I put back the cylinder heads and screwed down the head nuts, having locked the flywheel. Slowly, the cylinders moved upwards, away from the stationary pistons. Bit by bit, by adding more wood spacers, I drew the cylinders off the pistons. I replaced both pistons and fitted the replacement cylinders. Luckily, there was no damage and the engine now runs at 60lbs oil pressure, so the bearings survived!
I hope you have similar success with your Javelin engine!
All the best, David