Javelin clutch noise - clashing?

[Andrew Henshall]

I've been working on my brother's RHD PC Javelin fitted with engine E1PC17863 and an unknown clutch & gearbox (probably a Meadows box).

Since getting the Javelin back on the road recently, it has had an issue when the clutch pedal is depressed right to the floor with the the engine running and the car stationary (either in gear or in neutral) - it makes very noticeable "clashing" noises coming from the bell housing area which sound like rotating parts clipping stationary parts!

If you let the clutch up off the floor by about 1.5" (still prior to the engagement point) the noises stop (engine running, box in neutral or in gear). If you release the clutch fully with the box in neutral there are no nasty noises. If you release the clutch fully with the box in gear and the car moving there are no nasty noises.

I have adjusted the length of the clutch operating rod (p/n 50462) and confirmed 1" free play, at the pedal but it made no difference to the noises. The car is on jack stands on the garage concrete floor, so inspecting the clutch from below is not easy at my age!

Can the clutch operating lever fork (p/n 50846) be fouling the pressure plate for some strange reason?

All suggestions are welcome?

Cheers, Andrew

[Keith Clements]

Quite common. The noise is caused by the fingers that depress the clutch pressure plate springs hitting the friction pad springs.
This is either caused by incorrect friction plate or incorrect adjustment. Try lengthening the clutch rod. Some have put stops under the clutch pedal to prevent excessive clutch travel.
If it is not an incorrect friction plate you should be able to depress clutch pedal enough to disengage it without the noise. So adjust the rod to this position.

Extensive research done. Search for the phrase "clutch friction plate"
And this topic viewtopic.php?p=16269#p16269

[Chris Spencer]

Andrew - Here's a pic of how I resolve the issue with an adjustable stop to prevent the over travel on the clutch pedal arm

The nut is welded to piece of equal angle which in turn is bolted to the car - I place a locknut on the rear of the bolt to allow adjustment should it ever be required - You could achieve the same result by placing a stop behind the pedal by using a bolt of a suitable length & lock nuts bolted through the toe board / bulkhead panel which wouldn't require any welding but you would have go through the carpet to achieve this

[RichardMc]

My Javelin did this too, I put a small jubilee clip round the clutch pedal arm, between the foot pad and the floor on the inside. This stops the pedal going to the floor and thus stops clutch fork moving too far.

While you are poking round make sure that the tie rod between the bottom of the column and the bellhousing is not broken (Javelin only they didn't fit it on the Jupiter) It is a bit of a rust trap and when it breaks you can select 2nd and 4th at the same time. I still have a bag of teeth from that little event! It also locks the drive train solid which is quite entertaining.

[Andrew Henshall]

Thanks for your replies Keith, Richard and Chris. We will be fitting a replacement clutch rod (the worn pin has been rebuilt), and adjusting the clutch again with more free travel in an attempt to eliminate the spring clash. Hopefully, the bite point won't be too close to the floor! I will let you know how it goes. Cheers, Andrew