Bonnet catches

[ian Howell]

As I get round to painting some of the metalwork (nowhere near the finished job, just primer / undercoat to preserve metal at this stage) I find on the bonnet panels there are a couple of flat metal spot-welded-on 'hook' bits, that apparently should hook over what would presumably be some sort of lug attached to the bulkhead, about 6" up from the chassis.

Now at this point on the car there ARE a couple of long threaded rods sticking out, but because the hooks don't fit snugly over them this would cause rattles. I feel these rods should be a bit thicker - say 1/2" to 3/4" diameter, to suit the hooks.

Am I right? If so, what sort of diameter SHOULD they be, how long, and what are they made of? I guess there might be wood or rubber sleeves on the rods - probably not metal, but I could easily be wrong.

Also, does anyone know what is the correct type of bonnet catch for this year / model?

The valances (what was left of them!) had three holes in a triangular pattern (not in use) and two more holes that, by the time I got to them, were holding the remains of aluminium / zinc castings that had once been the bottom bit of ball-ended catches, held on by wood screws into bits of wood on the underside of the valence plates.

On each of the bonnet panels, there are two biggish (say 1/2" diameter) brass 'buttons' rivetted to the panels, but also three holes, again in a triangular pattern, that possibly held the matching part of the 'aluminium' catches.

I am ASSUMING at this stage that the brass buttons are correct and that there should be catches of the spring-loaded barrel type, with holes in the side that go over the buttons, and hinged on a bottom bracket with three holes.

If this is correct, does anyone have any of these catches available? One as a pattern would be helpful.

[k. rogers]

Ian, I believe the bonnet catches you are describing are the same type used up until 1933 which are attached to the chassis and sprung so that when they hook over the 'button' on the bonnet sides the tension stops the bonnet flapping. If you have a chance, have a look at Paul Beck's website (doing a search for his name should find it) and there you will find several examples of this type of catch, one may be suitable! I have found this site very useful for lots of items for my Kingfisher, he also seems very reasonably priced compared to others.http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/

[ian Howell]

Thanks! I found Paul's website - no problem, but the items he lists are all chrome plated, and they don't seem to match the 'button' I described although this could be 'wrong' and the three hole fixing could be right.

I feel the catches I want should be bare brass or painted (1930 - chrome a new idea)? and have a hole in the side of the barrel - which as you say would be spring loaded - and the hole would pop over the button, etc.

Do you know how the type of catches you describe are held onto the valences and how the mating part is held on the bonnet side? This might give me a clue as to the original fittings.

Also, any comment on the 'bits' that are on the bulkhead?

Many thanks for your interest. Regards, Ian H

[k. rogers]

I don't have my digital camera at present but when I do I will post some photos which may help. I don't have experience of the 1930 model but would imagine the set up is very similar to my 1933. You are quite right that the bonnet catch isn't chrome (although nickel-plated would be ok, I suppose) those on my car are brass, painted in body colour - they simply slide through a hole in the shroud (?) on top of the chassis and are secured with a spring first then a washer and split pin. The button on the bonnet side is again painted brass and appears to be simply a big rivet. Is there any chance of photos of the other bits on the bulkhead you are talking about - it may help?

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Ian and Ken.

Here's a sketch of the arrangement on my 1933 "Flying Fox". It's rather simple as usual.

I think perhaps the "buttons" on the bonnet sides are original.

The rods that the spring steel items on the inside of the bonnet go over will perhaps benefit from having some sort of rubber tubing over them. This would stop rattles.

I've also a feeling that there's some sort of rubber piece on the end of the "hooks" so that when the bonnet is up the "hook" doesn't spoil the paintwork on the bulkhead panel.



Regards,

Tony.

[ian Howell]

Tony: -

As usual - exactly what I needed! Many thanks for the trouble you have taken. Just a couple of details (wherein lies the Devil!): -

Are the catches made of steel or brass or other material, how thick is it and what is the finish - plated, painted, bare brass, other?

I like the idea of the rubber buffers and I can understand their purpose, but my 'hooks' don't appear to have any holes (May have been filled and painted - I shall look). I suppose a bit of suitable diameter, thick-wall rubber tube would do the job without drilling - and simple too!

Re: - The 'rods' that should steady the bonnet side panels. On closer examination there is only one and that is on the nearside (the other side has a non-original bolt head that is flush with the bulkhead). It looks (and I am sure is) a later fitting but I feel there must have been something hereabouts for the hook to go over.

Either way, it is not critical now, or in the forseeable future, so perhaps WHEN (if?!) I get the car back on the road I can compare it with others.

Today I had a long run out of the engine - seriously 'missing' on the N/S cylinder, I think that's the one with a broken piston ring. Starts fairly easily though, with the rebuilt coil (Thanks again Alan).

Now here's the fun bit! By putting ropes around the brake and clutch pedal arms near the bulkhead, I could operate both from the front of the car (Outside!). I put it in 1st, and started the engine (the car has been up on axle stands for years), then disengaged the clutch - and it did! - then released the clutch and applied the rear brakes (front ones not connected yet) and the engine really worked hard.

So, all those cold, dark evenings seem to have been rewarded.

Next up: - check dynamo and carry on repairing the wings. Some recent progress with the front valance but ran out of welding wire for the 'spot' welds in the middle.

Oh, and I fitted the 4th of the repainted wheels, just the 5th to clean up and paint now.

Ken: - I will take photos of the bits in question, but how the *** do you load them onto the Forum?