How long is a dipstick?

[george garside]

[
Just one thing: - How long should it be?

(There's a hole in my bucket, dear Liza . . . )![/quote]

the simplest way is to make it long enough to reach the bottom of the sump at one end and long enough to get hold of at the other!. I know modern dipsticks dont usually reach the bottom of the sump but that is a safety measure so when it reads empty there is still some oil in the sump.

The reason I sugest the bottom is to make it simple to calibrate it by adding a pint at a time

george

[ian Howell]

George (et al): -

I put that post up with my tongue in my cheek! But it does raise another point in my mind: -

If the dipstick were to go straight down the (now empty) indicator wire tube, would it hit the remains (if any) of the float or would it actually hit the bottom of the sump? The difference would be the thickness of the float.

I think perhaps your original suggestion was best: - Put a stick right down (regardless of what it hits), then add oil pint at a time, marking the dipstick after each addition.

I guess it might also be a good idea to mark where the top of the indicator tube comes to on the dipstick, just to ensure that subsequent measures are made to the same datum, in case there are any obstructions (like the guide bolt or the float, if any).

Now, if we have got to the bottom (oh dear!) of that, about my oil pump: -

When I took it apart to check for wear etc., (I did not remove the whole pump as it was solid in the sump casting), I found a thick - about 1/4" - brass spacer between the pump body and the cover (Which was cracked - replacement from M K-O).

This was apparently to take up the extra length of the gears, which protruded the same amount (less a thou' or so) from the pump body.

Question: - Could the gears be from another pump, possibly Bradford, that has a higher displacement and a previous owner just wanted more flow/higher pressure, or is this a 'standard' feature?

Obviously / apparently, the diameter of the gears is the same as the originals, otherwise they wouldn't fit / work in the new arrangement.

The query is this: - even at a very low, warm, tickover, the oil pressure is about 40psi! I don't seem to be able to get it lower by adjusting the pressure relief valve, (I have had that to bits at least 4 times and all seems OK, oilways clear, gasket correct), so I am guessing that the pump delivery exceeds the 'spill' capacity of the valve.

I can't see that this can do much harm, but it does seem odd.

Any thoughts or comments?

[ian Howell]

All done!

I tried Tony's idea of stroking the rod in the pipe that the rod rises in, but I used a bit of stiff brass wire with a very small loop in the end JUST big enough to fit over the indicator wire and set at an angle to create a bend in the rod as I rubbed it. This sort of worked , but with it I could 'feel' the rod was not so much bent as 'kinky'.

At this stage I noticed that the brass pipe can be unscrewed from the crankcase - so I did, and that gave me a longer free length of rod to work with.

Stage two. I made up a bit of brass about 3/4" long with a hole through it that JUST fitted over the rod, the idea being that I could force this over the kinks and straighten them out.

This sort of worked, but the rod was still not free enough in the pipe to rise with the float.

Stage three. I found a bit of thick-walled copper tube about 4" long and again JUST big enough to go over the rod, and soldered it to the original stiff brass wire.

I threaded it over the rod and forced it up and down the rod several times, each time it got easier and easier. Once there was no noticeable drag on the tube, I replaced the original brass pipe and lo (and behold!) it all works!

Many thanks to all for your encouragement and ideas. I hope this may all be helpful to some other poor soul with a similar problem.

[Tony Fearn]

As some old sage once said. - "Where there's a will, there's a way", - it just needs a few Jowetteers to sort it out!!

Nice one Ian.

Tony.

[ian Howell]

I thought it was 'where there's a will there's a relative!

[Alastair Gregg]

Or could that be "where there's a will there was a relative"?

[Tony Fearn]

Hello again.

It's about a year ago since the last post (not by bugle) on this subject was added.

But the other day I was looking into the innards of a 1932 Jowett crankcase and remembered the long discussions we had about Ian's problem.

So this is what I came up with. (please excuse the 'technical drawing').



1. When the cork rests on the bottom of the sump, the indicator wire is level with the top of the brass tube at the off-side of the of the breather banjo.

2. When filling the engine with oil, the sump is full when the indicator wire ceases to rise.

3. At this point the length of indicator wire showing above the top of the brass tube should be 2 and 5/8ths of an inch.

4. Looking at the above diagram, it will be seen that this measurement will be governed by the distance the top face of the cork float will rise from when the sump is 'empty' (sic) to its coming to rest against the bottom edge of the little indicator wire steady bolt, as oil is added.

5. N.B. - Even when the indicator wire shows empty, there will always be residual oil in the near-side well of the sump, - ref the diagram again.

6. Of course all this needs to have a free-moving indicator wire which rises spontaneously when the brass cap is removed from the tube.

Tony.

[ian Howell]

Tony: -

Thanks for this information. As you may recall, I eventually found out that the wire was bent on mine and I managed to straighten it without stripping the engine.

I am now wondering if a bit has rusted away from the top of my indicator wire as it doesn't seem to reach quite to the top of the brass tube when the sump is 'dry'. Anyway, at least I can now see if there IS oil in the engine!

I THINK I have got to the bottom of the water leak problem. I made up a blanking plate and put air pressure tests on the 'pot' and head separately - no leaks.

Then I made a rubber head gasket and fitted it - no leaks.

SO, I conclude that it must be the head gasket, but for the life of me I can't see any sign of weakness in the gasket or distortion in the head or 'pot'.

The next move is to try the suggestion about Hylomar around the water ports.

Watch this space.

[AlanBartlett]

On another note, where would cork be obtainable from? I'd imagine a diy place like B&Q? or somewhere?

[Forumadmin]

In Spain from a cork tree?
If you want sheet then try 'cork sheet' search on Google!
If you want thicker then enjoy a good bottle of wine.

[ian Howell]

Alan: -

On the assumption that you are making a replacement float for your 'dipstick', you will need a piece of cork rather bigger than a matchbox (see Tony's earlier sketch). You used to be able to find this sort of thing on the beach at low tide, being 'lost' floats from fishing nets. A fishing tackle shop might be able to help, or as suggested - try a Google.

If / when you have made a float, it will need to be varnished with an OIL PROOF varnish. Possibly marine quality? (Others will know best).

A thought occurs - maybe you could use the polyurethane (NOT POLYSTYRENE) foam sometimes found in electronics packaging? It seems to be oil proof.

Finally of course, you will apparently need to strip the engine in order to install the float / dipstick assembly.

What fun!

[Jack]

If you need big blocks of cork, check out DIY shops - many sanding blocks are/were cork, about 3" x 2" x 4" block. Will not cost very much, and whatever size smaller than that you need can be made from such a block.

Jack.

[Forumadmin]

Be aware that oil can get up to 120deg C at which temp some plastics may go soft.
Why not use wood? Does it not have the correct Specific Gravity?

[AlanBartlett]

Ah yes putting it in before everything else, As my engine has been apart for so long dare I say it two years plus! I'm finally starting to put things back together now everything has been sorted and checked and double checked. Luckily as it is all apart I thought I ought to put in a proper dipstick,though my push in one from the top did suffice quite well. Just been ebaying cork and blocks and came up with quite a few options, so hopefully will be able to locate some.

[ian Howell]

Alan: -

That idea of Jack's seems to be a brilliant option, (just make sure it IS cork and not some sort of plastic foam with unknown properties) and don't forget to varnish the float before you fit it.

The polyurethane idea? Well I used it to raise the float in my carburettor. It seemed to be petrol-proof OK but eventually I unsoldered the float lever actuating collar and moved it back to where it appeared to have been at some time before.

Wood would probably work but, as it would be more dense, you might need a bigger piece than the original float - which could cause problems of space.

Any signs of the old wire tangled round the crankshaft / con rods, camshaft?!