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Hello,
I'm a new member, Donal Flynn, I have my javelin about 8 months, drove it a bit before the winter, but it was beginning to run coarser/lumpy. Now it will start on the choke but will stall if pushed back in any amount, I've cleaned the jets, the plugs which were very black. It still is the same. I screwed both air screws out a tiny bit, it was harder started but ran a little smoother, but still stalls when choke moved even a little bit. All I can think of is the progression jets but they seem stuck fast so didnt wish to force.
Any ideas please
Hi Donal,
It is most likely the carb float chamber needle valves. Take off the carb intake hoses or the whole inlet pipe and whilst pumping the petrol pump by hand see if there are any petrol drips coming out just below the choke. There may be many other reasons of course which have all been explained on JowettTalk before. So try searching.
Donal,
Since the Zenith choke works on the strangler principle i.e. excludes air and is not the type that facilitates fuel supply it occurs to me that if you cannot run without choke, but it runs OK with it you may have an air leak somewhere and putting the choke on is just compensating for that.
Good news, I went through everything als changed all gaskets on both carburettors. It's starting easily again, although it makes the occasional popping sound(backfire?) but quite happy.
Next I've to sort the steering, which wanders to the right if you hit a bump sometimes, I jacked both front wheels and tested for movement, the right Side has a tiny bit side to side, passenger side nice and tight, what component should I check to replace cheers Donal
Set up the steering as per the manual.
There is likely to be wear in one or more of the many joints or bearing surfaces which will make set up pointless,, so find out where it is and fix it.
The steering alteration on bump is either individual wheel tracking or track rod end ball height.
Camber or caster could also be out if the car has been bent. Either could cause steering geometry change on bump.
Glad that you have sorted the carburetors. Does the popping-back happen on the overrun, probably going downhill? if so, I suggest that you check the timing, but unless it's excessive, this sounds quite normal. Adjusting the mixture at the carburetors to make it a bit richer by winding the adjusters in by a fraction of a turn might help as well. As for the wandering off to the right, Keith has given you some food for thought, but as a starter for ten, I suggest you check the front tyres for correct pressure, ( usually about 29lbs/ft or 2 bar ). If that's OK, my next thing on the list would be the tracking. Under normal conditions, I would suggest that you seek out a tyre depot that does cheap checks on the tracking. It's a fiddle to check yourself and a few pounds spent here will give you a much more accurate result. Javelins are nice and easy to adjust, so they might even correct it for you at no extra charge.
However, with this pesky Coronavirus/Covid 19, they may well be closed. I know my local garage is closed, and my modern needs an MoT, which thankfully the Government has extended by six months. ( Which, in passing, is probably the best indication of how long the authorities think all these restrictions will take to expire? ). So, unfortunately, it's probably back to the old method with a tape measure on the wheel rims, setting the toe in-out to the value in the book. The manual says 'parallel to 1/16" toe out'. Running your hand over the tread on the tyres is a quick check which only takes seconds. If the tracking is out, the tread will feel 'lifted' and not smooth.
Have a look in the long topic on the SA rebuild for how I set up the steering geometry . I use some Dexion angle iron bolted to each brake drum and a stick to do the tracking.
