Ian I’m still considering taking the engine out this winter. I wonder if the starting handle breather has a some sort of gauze over it which could presumably be blocked. If I do take it out I will Take photos of each stage.
Paul
1929 long 2
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Paulstingmore
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ian Howell
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From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
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Re: 1929 long 2
Paul: -
There are obviously many more changes between 1929 and 1930 models (I only knew about the clutch, the brakes and the gearbox).
I think your best bet at present will be John Cash as he has a 1929 saloon.
I must say I am mystified about the engine 'breathing' through the starting handle! It seems a bit weird, even for Jowetts!
You will probably spotted Barrycambs too. He also has a 1929 model but it may have an earlier engine and there a few more.
You are in the right place, just not necessarily on the same model (to paraphrase Eric Morecombe).
There are obviously many more changes between 1929 and 1930 models (I only knew about the clutch, the brakes and the gearbox).
I think your best bet at present will be John Cash as he has a 1929 saloon.
I must say I am mystified about the engine 'breathing' through the starting handle! It seems a bit weird, even for Jowetts!
You will probably spotted Barrycambs too. He also has a 1929 model but it may have an earlier engine and there a few more.
You are in the right place, just not necessarily on the same model (to paraphrase Eric Morecombe).
The devil is in the detail!
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BarryCambs
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Re: 1929 long 2
My car is 1929, but it has a 1934 detachable head engine. I know very little about the fixed head engines I'm afraid.
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ChrisE
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Re: 1929 long 2
Paul,
We have a 1929 (very original) long 4 that you are very welcome to look at or ask about any photos you want that I can take. I think people posting loads of photos on here or in some archive is a fantastic way to spread information and has certainly helped me. I also keep referring back to my own photos to check things when I'm scratching my head.
The breather valve, although a very minor, simple, leather thing is crucial to how the 2 cyl Jowett engine works. Pressure in the crank case is massive and blows oil everywhere if the valve is not correct. see the link below which makes it obvious
https://i.gifer.com/2ujz.gif
none of the elements on the engine have oil seals in, they just have throwers and so rely on the crankcase being under negative air pressure to keep the oil in the engine. Another thing is that all the filler caps etc must be as airtight as possible to allow the valve to do it's work.
I think I would make a valve, somewhere, anywhere, perhaps on the filler or somewhere similar and see how you go. Anything that lets air out but prevents it from coming back in.
Chris
We have a 1929 (very original) long 4 that you are very welcome to look at or ask about any photos you want that I can take. I think people posting loads of photos on here or in some archive is a fantastic way to spread information and has certainly helped me. I also keep referring back to my own photos to check things when I'm scratching my head.
The breather valve, although a very minor, simple, leather thing is crucial to how the 2 cyl Jowett engine works. Pressure in the crank case is massive and blows oil everywhere if the valve is not correct. see the link below which makes it obvious
https://i.gifer.com/2ujz.gif
none of the elements on the engine have oil seals in, they just have throwers and so rely on the crankcase being under negative air pressure to keep the oil in the engine. Another thing is that all the filler caps etc must be as airtight as possible to allow the valve to do it's work.
I think I would make a valve, somewhere, anywhere, perhaps on the filler or somewhere similar and see how you go. Anything that lets air out but prevents it from coming back in.
Chris
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Paulstingmore
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Re: 1929 long 2
Hi Chris
Where in the country are you? I’m going to investigate the crank breather and see if it is clear or blocked and if no joy, will probably do as you suggest and make something up. I’d be interested in seeing your car, particularly the hood frame and dimensions. I’d love to find an original hood and get it patched rather than going brand new but suspect the chances of that are slim to nil!
Cheers paul
Where in the country are you? I’m going to investigate the crank breather and see if it is clear or blocked and if no joy, will probably do as you suggest and make something up. I’d be interested in seeing your car, particularly the hood frame and dimensions. I’d love to find an original hood and get it patched rather than going brand new but suspect the chances of that are slim to nil!
Cheers paul
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Paulstingmore
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Re: 1929 long 2
Thanks Chris - will have to plan a trip! In the meantime, now back home and my chassis number is I assume from 1928/29?!
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Paulstingmore
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Re: 1929 long 2
A quick update, after quite a few issues I’ve finally got the radiator back today and fitted. Haven’t had the car out on the road with it fitted yet but she sat on tick over for an hour this evening so feeling happy!
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Paulstingmore
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Re: 1929 long 2
I’m considering selling the car for a new project. It’s been rewired, retrimmed, has started rebuilt and also had a recored rad plus new oil
Seals and drive coupling for rear axle. And despite all that, I’m only looking for £7.5k for it (firm). Let me know if you’d like to chat! Paul 07908892230
Seals and drive coupling for rear axle. And despite all that, I’m only looking for £7.5k for it (firm). Let me know if you’d like to chat! Paul 07908892230
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Paulstingmore
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Re: 1929 long 2
*starter motor rebuilt
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