Paul We will leave it up to you to delegate the various tasks.
Drummond
Young Members And Alistair Gregg Planning A Flat Twin Build
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Drummond Black
- Posts: 448
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:38 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jowett Jupiter, Jowett Javelin, Rover 75 (s)
- Given Name: Drummond
- Location: Kirkliston, SCOTLAND
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Alastair Gregg
- websitedesign
- Posts: 757
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:43 pm
- Your interest in the forum: E2 SA 922 HKY 770
D7 CB 6079 CVG 166
E2 PD 22113 MVU 377 - Given Name: Alastair
- Location: Corrie, Isle of Arran.
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Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
Flat twin rebuild
Don't lose heart Alastair, I'll bet Drummond had his head full of "tattie bogle" costumes when he submitted that last post.
Tony.
Tony.
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AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
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Drummond Black
- Posts: 448
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:38 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jowett Jupiter, Jowett Javelin, Rover 75 (s)
- Given Name: Drummond
- Location: Kirkliston, SCOTLAND
7 HP
Calm Down -- Calm Down All
There was a bit of Tattie Bogle Jest in my last Post......Lets get all the Juniors involved..
There was a bit of Tattie Bogle Jest in my last Post......Lets get all the Juniors involved..
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PAUL BEAUMONT
- Posts: 452
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 1:57 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Bradford Registrar and club Chairman
- Given Name: Paul
- Location: South Yorkshire
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Alastair Gregg
- websitedesign
- Posts: 757
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:43 pm
- Your interest in the forum: E2 SA 922 HKY 770
D7 CB 6079 CVG 166
E2 PD 22113 MVU 377 - Given Name: Alastair
- Location: Corrie, Isle of Arran.
Thanks Paul
A Big Thank you to Paul Beaumont who delivered a "donor" 7 HP engine to me on Friday 21st for the rebuild project. I have just returned from delivering it to Alan in Somerset. Alan intends to strip it and confirm or otherwise the need for further components, to make a full engine up at Crieff.
Please see the request for "Junior" assistants in the Jowett Juniors section. Alan and Rachel seem to be very keen, please point other Juniors in their direction.
I have reminded Alan to get some dimensions for Drummond/Tom's kind offer of building an engine stand.
Please see the request for "Junior" assistants in the Jowett Juniors section. Alan and Rachel seem to be very keen, please point other Juniors in their direction.
I have reminded Alan to get some dimensions for Drummond/Tom's kind offer of building an engine stand.
Compliments of the Season,
Alastair Gregg
Alastair Gregg
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ian Howell
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
- Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
- Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
- Contact:
DON'T FORGET!!
IF you get that far with the rebuild at Crieff (wish I was coming), you may have cause to review Bob Jones' remarks in his useful little Technical Information for Pre-War and Veteran Cars" notes: -
"Always check that the (oil) pump is supplying oil before running engine".
Last night, because I could not get any oil pressure 'on the crank', I drained the sump AGAIN, stripped the oil pump AGAIN - AND checked that it turned with the engine (no sheared drive pins/keys) AND stripped the pressure relief valve AND cut a new gasket for it. No faults found.
Then, after refilling the sump AGAIN (no level indicator still - used a measuring can), I used the starter motor to turn the engine over - without spark plugs - for about a full minute before any semblance of oil pressure appeared on the guage.
So that proves my rebuild of the starter was OK!
I assume that, AS WELL AS the pump being a bit weak, ALL the oil galleries in the crankcase AND those in the crankshaft, AND the suction lines to the pump were all very dry as I had drained the oil from the sump last November, so they all had to be refilled before pressure could be built up.
SO DON'T FORGET!
IF you get that far with the rebuild at Crieff (wish I was coming), you may have cause to review Bob Jones' remarks in his useful little Technical Information for Pre-War and Veteran Cars" notes: -
"Always check that the (oil) pump is supplying oil before running engine".
Last night, because I could not get any oil pressure 'on the crank', I drained the sump AGAIN, stripped the oil pump AGAIN - AND checked that it turned with the engine (no sheared drive pins/keys) AND stripped the pressure relief valve AND cut a new gasket for it. No faults found.
Then, after refilling the sump AGAIN (no level indicator still - used a measuring can), I used the starter motor to turn the engine over - without spark plugs - for about a full minute before any semblance of oil pressure appeared on the guage.
So that proves my rebuild of the starter was OK!
I assume that, AS WELL AS the pump being a bit weak, ALL the oil galleries in the crankcase AND those in the crankshaft, AND the suction lines to the pump were all very dry as I had drained the oil from the sump last November, so they all had to be refilled before pressure could be built up.
SO DON'T FORGET!
The devil is in the detail!
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AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
When Brut Force Is Not Enough
Spent the evening trying to unseize the donor engine, after it had been soaking a couple weeks in oil, i thought id try and see if it was free, then I came up with the idea of putting the flywheel back on and ending up with these pictures, I thought the engine having more leverage than the flywheel, but to no avail, tommorrow I will try the liquid gas and give it another try, also what size is the fly wheel nut?
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
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george garside
- Posts: 673
- Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:47 pm
- Location: formby , merseyside
Allan.
It is most likely to be one or both pistons seized in the bore rather than crankshaft bearings . try filling cylinders (full thrugh spark plug hole)with warm mixture of prafinn and light engine oil or somebodies patent releasing agent. Leave for a few ddays and if possible warm cylinder with gas torch , primus stove or whatever ( should be safe enough with spark plug loosely in) before trying to turn crankshaft. Assuming t is a piston siezed it may be possible to take cylinder off crankcase ( you will probably need to undo nuts on both cylinders to allow pots to move if both pistons stuck. ONce pot or pots clear of crancase studs you can try rotating them which may free them. If you pull both pots as far ou;t as poss ( one may come off as normal if only one siezed) it should be possible toheat the underside (inside) of piston with blowtorch which again may help.
Also if engine turns with cylinder unbolted you will know it the pistons/cylinders and if one cylinder comes off in the normal way you will know its the other one that s siezed & will be able to concentrate on that one.
Try 'oiling' & 'warming' rather than brute force if at all possible
george
It is most likely to be one or both pistons seized in the bore rather than crankshaft bearings . try filling cylinders (full thrugh spark plug hole)with warm mixture of prafinn and light engine oil or somebodies patent releasing agent. Leave for a few ddays and if possible warm cylinder with gas torch , primus stove or whatever ( should be safe enough with spark plug loosely in) before trying to turn crankshaft. Assuming t is a piston siezed it may be possible to take cylinder off crankcase ( you will probably need to undo nuts on both cylinders to allow pots to move if both pistons stuck. ONce pot or pots clear of crancase studs you can try rotating them which may free them. If you pull both pots as far ou;t as poss ( one may come off as normal if only one siezed) it should be possible toheat the underside (inside) of piston with blowtorch which again may help.
Also if engine turns with cylinder unbolted you will know it the pistons/cylinders and if one cylinder comes off in the normal way you will know its the other one that s siezed & will be able to concentrate on that one.
Try 'oiling' & 'warming' rather than brute force if at all possible
george
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ian Howell
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
- Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
- Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
- Contact:
Just a little more helpful? information: -
IF you undo both 'pots' from the crankcase and IF you can then get one of them off its piston, you should be able to get to the big end bolts for the other solid' piston and than take off the piston and the pot in one lump.
This might make it more manageable for warming, pushing or pulling.
IF you undo both 'pots' from the crankcase and IF you can then get one of them off its piston, you should be able to get to the big end bolts for the other solid' piston and than take off the piston and the pot in one lump.
This might make it more manageable for warming, pushing or pulling.
The devil is in the detail!
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Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
Hello Ian,
Re. your reply on Jan 11th in this post about having trouble getting oil pressure to show on the gauge.
I changed all the oils on my 'Sarah Jane' project last week (1933 'Flying Fox') and today I coupled-up the battery terminals to set up the brake lights.
Whilst I had the battery connected I thought I'd see if the oil pressure gauge still read 40 psi whilst turning the engine over with no ignition on as it did previous to the oil change.
No reading whatsoever on the gauge.
Checked I had the filter the correct way up (it says 'TOP' on one of the vertical lugs) and it was o.k..
Undid the pipe from behind the gauge, attached a length of windscreen washer tubing to it and sucked for England. Forgot the viscosity of the engine oil at about 2 degrees Celsius was quite something, but eventually the oil showed itself in the plastic tube.
Re-connected the pipe to the gauge and turned the engine over with the starter to raise pressure , but still nothing showed on the dial.
So I removed the oil filler cap just in case there was a pressure issue inside the engine. Lo and behold, the oil pressure gauge needle rose to about 40 once again.
I gently prodded the vanes in the breather valve with a bit of stiff wire from inside the filler orifice, and they seem to be ok, so it seems like opening the engine to the atmosphere did the trick.
This might have no bearing on why your oil pressure was sluggish, but I thought I'd add to the debate especially as the search facility will bring up all suggestions for future use.
Regards,
Tony.
P.S. Just thought:- the spark plugs were in and tight, so if they had been loosened or better still removed, this would have had the same effect.
Having spent some time typing the above I'm not going to re-hash it!!
Re. your reply on Jan 11th in this post about having trouble getting oil pressure to show on the gauge.
I changed all the oils on my 'Sarah Jane' project last week (1933 'Flying Fox') and today I coupled-up the battery terminals to set up the brake lights.
Whilst I had the battery connected I thought I'd see if the oil pressure gauge still read 40 psi whilst turning the engine over with no ignition on as it did previous to the oil change.
No reading whatsoever on the gauge.
Checked I had the filter the correct way up (it says 'TOP' on one of the vertical lugs) and it was o.k..
Undid the pipe from behind the gauge, attached a length of windscreen washer tubing to it and sucked for England. Forgot the viscosity of the engine oil at about 2 degrees Celsius was quite something, but eventually the oil showed itself in the plastic tube.
Re-connected the pipe to the gauge and turned the engine over with the starter to raise pressure , but still nothing showed on the dial.
So I removed the oil filler cap just in case there was a pressure issue inside the engine. Lo and behold, the oil pressure gauge needle rose to about 40 once again.
I gently prodded the vanes in the breather valve with a bit of stiff wire from inside the filler orifice, and they seem to be ok, so it seems like opening the engine to the atmosphere did the trick.
This might have no bearing on why your oil pressure was sluggish, but I thought I'd add to the debate especially as the search facility will bring up all suggestions for future use.
Regards,
Tony.
P.S. Just thought:- the spark plugs were in and tight, so if they had been loosened or better still removed, this would have had the same effect.
Having spent some time typing the above I'm not going to re-hash it!!
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ian Howell
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
- Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
- Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
- Contact:
Tony: -
It's not just me then!
On a different, but previous, note: -
Last night I was cleaning off the inside of the bonnet panels ready for painting, when I found a rust pit (only one??!!) in one edge of a side panel.
On investigation it turned out to be a number, with the same number stamped in the same place on the panel for the other side.
The number was the last three digits of the chassis number, so presumably was a 'build' number.
The number was just above the 'kink' in the lower edge of the panels.
I thought about your earlier post re: - engine builders, not initials here though.
It's not just me then!
On a different, but previous, note: -
Last night I was cleaning off the inside of the bonnet panels ready for painting, when I found a rust pit (only one??!!) in one edge of a side panel.
On investigation it turned out to be a number, with the same number stamped in the same place on the panel for the other side.
The number was the last three digits of the chassis number, so presumably was a 'build' number.
The number was just above the 'kink' in the lower edge of the panels.
I thought about your earlier post re: - engine builders, not initials here though.
The devil is in the detail!
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ian Howell
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
- Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
- Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
- Contact:
Tony: -
It's not just me then!
On a different, but previous, note: -
Last night I was cleaning off the inside of the bonnet panels ready for painting, when I found a rust pit (only one??!!) in one edge of a side panel.
On investigation it turned out to be a number, with the same number stamped in the same place on the panel for the other side.
The number was the last three digits of the chassis number, so presumably was a 'build' number.
The number was just above the 'kink' in the lower edge of the panels.
I thought about your earlier post re: - engine builders, no initials here though.
It's not just me then!
On a different, but previous, note: -
Last night I was cleaning off the inside of the bonnet panels ready for painting, when I found a rust pit (only one??!!) in one edge of a side panel.
On investigation it turned out to be a number, with the same number stamped in the same place on the panel for the other side.
The number was the last three digits of the chassis number, so presumably was a 'build' number.
The number was just above the 'kink' in the lower edge of the panels.
I thought about your earlier post re: - engine builders, no initials here though.
The devil is in the detail!
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george garside
- Posts: 673
- Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:47 pm
- Location: formby , merseyside
don't know what year your car is Ian but certinly in the vintage era up to?? the bonnets were made/fitted by outside contractors, being tailored to each individual car - could the numbers be simply a means of making sure that made to measure bonnets were not mixed up from car to car during assembly.
george
george