Painting an ally body
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AlanBartlett
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- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
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AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
Ive bitten the bullet and gone for a total paint strip on the wings,so I gather it will look alot better I hope, if i can do it right, also from the bare metal what do I need to do to start painting? What type of paint do I need, is it etching primer to start with?
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
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Keith Clements
- websitedesign
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Keith Andrews
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The oxide has to be removed manually then etched....etching doesnt remove the oxide as it does with steel.
Stripping right back, ensures anything that may not have been done correct previous and will come back and kick u later doesnt happen.
Good Move
Clean off all oxidation/corrosion and finish with a something like a scotch bite.... and remove any oils with tack rag or rag and thinners...do this between every coat.
Clean and apply etch ASAP
Coat with a specialist Aluminium etch primer
This will allow adhesion for the epoxy...
Then a coat of expoy to seal. ASAP
Once sealed with epoxy, u can leave for very long periods.
From there u can use your hi build undercoats and block back, NOT going thru the expoxy...
If not using 2 pot hi build leave for at least w eek between coats to allow for shrinkage from solvent evaperation.
Then base coat and clear
Stripping right back, ensures anything that may not have been done correct previous and will come back and kick u later doesnt happen.
Good Move
Clean off all oxidation/corrosion and finish with a something like a scotch bite.... and remove any oils with tack rag or rag and thinners...do this between every coat.
Clean and apply etch ASAP
Coat with a specialist Aluminium etch primer
This will allow adhesion for the epoxy...
Then a coat of expoy to seal. ASAP
Once sealed with epoxy, u can leave for very long periods.
From there u can use your hi build undercoats and block back, NOT going thru the expoxy...
If not using 2 pot hi build leave for at least w eek between coats to allow for shrinkage from solvent evaperation.
Then base coat and clear
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
Right Ive nitromosed most of the old paint down to the bare metal on the front 2 wings, at the moment I'm kind of losing interest and patience with the whole sanding, filling and prep process so for now I think Im going to re primer the wings to stop rust, even though its not yet properly prepared ie its still got some lumpy bumpy bits which need sanding and preping, so I think im gunna hunt around for proper quotes as I dont think I can give it the paint job it deserves, so for now Im gunna primer the wings, and put it all back togther on the car, so then I can get it on the road I think..... and then get it all techincally sound even though I may have to wait for the decorative part. Is this a good plan?
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
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george garside
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AlanBartlett
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- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
Thanks to a mini friend (whos into minis not a miget) has restored my enthusim for the prep, He has shown me that all that needs to be done isnt that hard and hes helped me do one wing ive just got the other 3 to do which arnt as dawnting as I first thought.... So I should have the preparation done by tomorrow evening hopefully.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
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AlanBartlett
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- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
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Keith Andrews
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AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
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Keith Andrews
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- Location: New Zealand
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1st it is best to hammer and file dents...this is a skill
The basic understanding is like this..
A dent has a greater surface area than the orginal shape, so one cannot simple knock a dent out without changing the shape of the surrounding area without re shrinking the dent area, or removing access metal to reshape....
Hence why modern thin metal in cars is replaced rather than beaten out
Once the beatig has removed most of the dent, filler is used...
This should not be spread any more than a couple mm thick
either over epoxy or on the metal...the metal should be clean and dry, not left open to the air for any length of time.
For a 'newbe'
mix the filler , then mix again to make sure well mixed, fold it do not stir to have as little air as possible trapped.
Spread the bog a good inch outside of the dent area
Then start to shape with a file or grinder, startng from the out side towards the center...
Blow with air to remove all dust, and any dust in tiny air bubbles
Apply another thn coat and repeat
Around the 3rd application you will have the shape a little high and basically right, finish with about an 80 grit, then 140 and 220.
When shapng always use long blocks/rasps moving in opposing diagonal directions
ie if u hold the rasp/block horozonally in front of u, the movement is between a 30 and 45 deg angle down to the right and down to the left in long strokes
Hope that explains the movement
This is the same movement when block sanding panels in preparation to basecoats.
Blow dust off...u should have no tiny airbubbles to fill.
Do not use cheap fillers
Do not allow fillers or non 2 pot undercoats to get wet or damp.
Apply you high build undercoat...
If u use a paint brush, u will have a lot of work gettng right because of brush marks....so it is best to spray
A good trick for those who have not devaloped the 'feel' of a panell
with a piece of newspaper between your hand and panel, held flat, then move your hand and paper over the panel...And close your eyes.
Closing your eyes, focuses all your sences to the feel in your hand.
The basic understanding is like this..
A dent has a greater surface area than the orginal shape, so one cannot simple knock a dent out without changing the shape of the surrounding area without re shrinking the dent area, or removing access metal to reshape....
Hence why modern thin metal in cars is replaced rather than beaten out
Once the beatig has removed most of the dent, filler is used...
This should not be spread any more than a couple mm thick
either over epoxy or on the metal...the metal should be clean and dry, not left open to the air for any length of time.
For a 'newbe'
mix the filler , then mix again to make sure well mixed, fold it do not stir to have as little air as possible trapped.
Spread the bog a good inch outside of the dent area
Then start to shape with a file or grinder, startng from the out side towards the center...
Blow with air to remove all dust, and any dust in tiny air bubbles
Apply another thn coat and repeat
Around the 3rd application you will have the shape a little high and basically right, finish with about an 80 grit, then 140 and 220.
When shapng always use long blocks/rasps moving in opposing diagonal directions
ie if u hold the rasp/block horozonally in front of u, the movement is between a 30 and 45 deg angle down to the right and down to the left in long strokes
Hope that explains the movement
This is the same movement when block sanding panels in preparation to basecoats.
Blow dust off...u should have no tiny airbubbles to fill.
Do not use cheap fillers
Do not allow fillers or non 2 pot undercoats to get wet or damp.
Apply you high build undercoat...
If u use a paint brush, u will have a lot of work gettng right because of brush marks....so it is best to spray
A good trick for those who have not devaloped the 'feel' of a panell
with a piece of newspaper between your hand and panel, held flat, then move your hand and paper over the panel...And close your eyes.
Closing your eyes, focuses all your sences to the feel in your hand.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'