Painting an ally body

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:24 pm

Speaking of stripping Ive recently started sanding down the wings to be prepped for priming, first started with 180 grit and then going to go over with 400. Doing the whole lot by hand, dont want to use nitromos because afraid it might take out the filler thats there and dont want to end up re filling, but apart from that im surprised its all in quite good condition going for a black over british racing green I think.

https://jowettnet/forum/download/file.p ... &mode=view

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:11 pm

'Hi Alan
When you've done all the rubbing you're going to need a fine surface body stopper.
I can recommend one which you can't get in car shops. I used it on the Javelin some years ago.
It's 3M acrylic stopper, it's dark red, comes in a tube just like toothpaste only much bigger and has the consistency of Nivea ( not that I use the stuff) It dries quickly and flats off easily. I find cellulose stopper can dry off before you've got in on the panel and is quite wasteful.
You'll need a trade body suppliers but if you're stuck let me know, I have one a mile away.
Regards
Ted

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:13 pm

A daft question but what does it do?

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:31 pm

Not a daft question if you've never done a body.
It is basically like a thick paint applied with a spreader and it fills up all the scratches left by the sanding process. It can be sanded with a very fine grade of wet and dry paper to give a perfect surface to the metal.
It is a quick process, it dries quickly, can be flatted off, the wet area dried with a hot air gun and more applied if required. I forgot to mention that it wasn't cheap but it lasts for years if you're not using much. I replaced my tube a couple of months ago, I think it was about 15 quid. It's a thousand times better than the Car Plan stuff that car shops sell.....anyone else got any thoughts on this ?
Ted

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 2:01 am

For a 1st time prep...no matter how careful/though u think u are...DONT go to a deep or dark colour...
Ever imperfection will show up and stand out !!!
It is very dis hearting, after all the work

My 19yr old son has just done his boy racer car, and sprayed himself, a very nice deep blue....
On the +ve side, for a 1st time spray hes done a bloody good job, WAY better than my 1st paint many yrs ago...
On the -ve he thought I was a bit pin pricky when I was going over before the paint....thu he also made a better job here than my 1st prep...

His comment was " Dad, u p155 me off, why the hell are u always right, just this once if u where wrong, I would be far happier!"

Also another thing, greens and epec reds 'bleed' thru if u decide to change colour later...they are a pain, and dark colours are harder to get the colour u want if wish to go lighter.

So I suggest, as a 1st time round, choose a lighter colour, then when u actually realise u CAN do better next time, it is simply blocking the colur back, taking out the stuff u are not happy with at the same time...THEN go the colour of your choice in a yr or so time.

Not removing filler from old war wounds is also a mistake...a big one
Any faint microscopic rust under these will come back and haunt u...
Filler is hydroscopic, absorbs miosture if left open to the air
Undercoats and filler should NEVER get wet.
There should be no filler more than 0.5 to 1mm deep, then finish with hi build undercoats.

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:52 pm

Hi Pat,
Probably the same stuff, maybe a different make. The dark colours of these fillers show up a lot better against a grey primer ' search coat' and the beauty is that you dont have to dip the spreader in but you can squeeze out a really tiny amount and screw the cap back on.

I stripped down an 8hp which was virtually painted in cellulose stopper. I started with Nitromors and it didn't effect the filler that came to light. I soon realised that this was too long-winded and finished the job with a hot air gun and a scraper....much quicker. Don't know about ally tho'.
Another point, Alan' if you are using filler, take the paint back to bare metal beyond the repair area...never let the filler run over the paint, it will not feather in well and will probably end up with a crack where the edge has lifted.

Ted

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 2:19 pm

The reason I asked about the filler is because a quarter of my wing im pretty sure made of it and I think is shaping it. Ill get some photos a bit later to let you have a judge

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:00 pm

Pat,
The stoppers on my car was really thick and just drank the nitromors. I did the two applications and wire brush but I found the brush clogged regularly.....and it doesn't half sting in spite of gloves.
After using the Hot gun and scraper I applied nitromors, left it a while and then used wire wool to remove it....perfect...came up like polished steel.
I shan't be doing another one though......my lad can take over if the occasion arises again !
I had the Javelin done in two pack and it is...or was...pre-cat....a really good finish. I was relief MOT examiner at a pals garage at the time and they had an oven and all the breathing gear, Sadly now a small block of flats.
Ted

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:07 pm

One point I forgot to mention for Alan.
If you are sanding down filler, don't mess around with fine grit papers, get some 40 grit production paper, this is designed not to clog, will last longer and shift and shape the filler a lot faster
Ted

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:03 pm

Trouble is Ive not got alot of room, so everythings on top of each otherm Ive decided to start with all the wings and get them back to black and then do the main body. Pictures to follow There really is no easy process is there heh.

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:54 pm

There really is no easy process is there heh.

Yes and no
If u mean short cuts...NO...these will come back a bite u...everytime
Easy?...
By hand ...well I wouldnt even consider that again...but with the right tools
Air/Electric sanders, grinders, mig welder, always spray undercoats, never paint,
good quaily sand papers, and undercoats, rasps, files, and the right sanding blocks..(not blocks of wood or little hand cork blocks)

Keep in mind...the 1st time round is a ALWAYS huge mission...a learning curve...
After that...u will know how and using the right paint systems/tools will be able to do a full paint start to finish, and long hrs, in 1 weekend.(doest include panel repair work)

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:57 pm

Ive done 180 grit so far on front wings and just moved on to 320 grit and now its picking up all the lil nics and high and low spots grrr, any one know how much an estimated respray wud cost in english pounds?

Post by **Forumadmin** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:22 pm

Join a local classic car club or ask around. Someone might do a good job for less than a fully professional job which would probably be around Â£1000 depending on amount of prep required.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 8:09 pm

Pictures on my jowett gallery space of wings and where the filler is I think.

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:13 pm

for what its worth and entirely on a suck and see basis I once pinted a mixed steel and alloy body using aa decent etching prima brushed on and sanded down followed by proper coach enamel applied by decorators roller! and then sanded down. this gave a much better finish aanad less sanding than folowwing brush painting and had the advaanaage of a devent thickness of paint. the finich was not concours but was extremely satisfactory.
BUT try it first on a piece of tin!!1

george