Whats Next?

[AlanBartlett]

Currently in the process of curing leaks, and preparing for painting, which is why the wings look tacky at the moment.... sanding down is mind numbing job

[Tony Fearn]

George

On the other hand are you sure it has 8hp pots fitted as they are interchangeable and it is possible that you have an 8hp crankcase fitted with 7hp pots. ( I know of a 1935 '7' fitted with 1005cc Bradford pots) george

I seem to remember Roy Braddock telling me that 7hp pots would fit onto an 8hp engine casing, but if you wanted to put 8hp pots onto a 7 hp casing you would have to machine the casing to take the slightly larger outer diameter of the circular base of the pot. So with this in mind, I suppose they are only interchangeable one way.

To Alan. Fantastic second video clip on Youtube.
Tony.

[Keith Andrews]

sanding down is mind numbing job

Never think that...
Every effort on prep will be rewarded, every "close enough" will come back and bite u, in finish and long lasting.

Never sand with your hand...
Always use a block...the best is a long block, slightly flexable 15" to 20 " long
Use long diagonal stroke in 2 directions.
Sand down to high pionts, Never sand down the low...circle theses and chips defects lightly with a pencil.
Fill chips with stop putting, lightly hand sand the lows, then spray these with a hi build undercoat...2x times, then a full coat over the whole panel/car
Repeat till no chips/low spots...
This usually takes 2 to 3 repeats.
Do not sand/shape edges untill the main surfaces are done...thu a light sand between coats.

You see the Camaro in my Avatar?
With a long block, there is 6 to 8 hrs sanding in the 1st block down, 4 to 6 in the 2nd to 3rd.

OH Dont use cheap paper...this will work out to being more expensive and a poor finish...use wet/dry...nortons is a good brand.
On the Camaro panels....1 sheet per panel

1st block 240 grit
2nd block 320
3rd (final block down) 360 or 380.grit

Paint type...u have 3 basic types Enamel, laquar, 2 pot...
These are not compatable, so from start think about which sysytem u wish to go with
Enamel...old school, needs more skill to flow out and prone to runs.
Dulon (laquar) very forgiving, easy to use, thu needs wet dry blocking of final coat to take out any orange peel etc...best to do a clear coat over the top and sand this.
2x pot, more forgiving than enamel, thu flows well , prone to runs, runs cant just be sanded out, more expensive, higher gloss ...and needs special remote breathing gear due to isocyanates.

I strongly suggest go Dulon with compatable undercoats.

Basic routine goes like this...
Media blast (professional money) or use a 4" grinder and sanding disk, and remove all paint with as little damage as possible to the panel
Do not leave steel open to the air for more than a few hrs on a dry day.
Use tack cloth to remove all dust, finger grease etc before spraying every coat
Epoxy
A good couple coats of hi build under coat, and block
Repeat as above
When surfaces are PERFECT...if u put a piece of newspaper between you hand and panel, and wipe over the panel with your eyes closed u will feel defects...good for those who have not devaloped the 'feel'
Spray the Dulon...1st coat so can just see thru, wait to tack off, a few minutes...
Hit with 2nd coat, heavier, but not too heavy, then 3rd....
Wait till tacks off, then hit with 2 coats, one on top of the other of clear...
let dry off for a week, then hand bock down with 800 then 1200, cut and polish a few months later.

OH the under coat, before appling the lat coat, since it is not 2x pot, let stand for at least a week or 2 before final sand...this allows for any shrinkage that may occur over the next few yrs.

[AlanBartlett]

for the prep im using 180 git wet and dry, to find high spots and all over then going to go over it with 400 then maybe 600. The paint that I will be using will be synthetic because me and a friend have experimented with other paint types and found it reacts with the top enamel coat and takes right back to primer. So at the mo its alot of sanding down.

[AlanBartlett]

I know I havent really had chance to road test the brakes but, should they be quite delayed? As mine at the moment I am standing on the pedal and it stops about 2ft afterwards? I know they are not as responsive as modern breaks but is this a good sign or a sign of wear or something.

[AlanBartlett]

Well brakes, steering, and lights are all done, also electrics are done, the engine is now running pretty well too apart from the couple of leaks I need to cure. Is there anything else I need to double check before hand?. Its been a long year and a half, and a steep learning curve, me knowing nothing what so ever about cars other than you drive them and pump up the tires.

from this, dug out from underneath a horde of familys unused junk in april 2006
https://jowettnet/forum/download/file.p ... &mode=view

[Forumadmin]

Like the green back light!
Good job with Photoshop....