Dash Buttons for Standard Javelins

[Alan Stanley]

Does anyone know of a source or anyone remaking the buttons and the square central rotating switch for standard Javelins. I know of at least three members seeking these?

[Leo Bolter]

Hello Alan.

How about making what you need yourself?

Back when I rebuilt my Jupiter I had to set to and make various knobs that had disintegrated (door handle, window winders, and heater for instance). The plastic covering of the steering wheel rim was tackled in a different manner from that which is outlined below.

To do the knobs it was necessary to either carve patterns from wood, machine them from metal or plastic, or borrow some kindly souls good one for a pattern, to use to make silicon rubber moulds. These were then filled with two pot resin of an appropriate ivory colour and afterwards threaded etc.

Here’s the rub though . . . no coloured resins were available at that time and experiments needed to be carried out to endeavor to not only get the colour right using various means, but to try to retain resin strength at the same time! When this was eventually sorted, the moulds were used to make the parts one at a time. I don’t know if the lack of colour is solved at the present time.


SAMPLES OF SOME OF MY MOULDS - (Note: There's mould release wax on the bumper grommet)
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Incidentally I used a similar method to make several Javelin and also Jupiter windscreen wiper shaft grommets in black and grey, and bumper dumb iron grommets (black) from Silicon Rubber. These, so far appear as if they will last forever!

The aluminium mould (shown in the picture) for the conical engine torque bump stop/bonnet locators was filled with uncured tyre rubber, then cured in an oven which also bonded the washer and mounting bolt to the rubber. The front suspension re-bound stops were made using a similar method . . . . as were some of the suspension and damper bushes.

Patterns for casting top and bottom door and bonnet hinges were yet another story . . .

Anyway, whatever you need, there is a means of making them as a good replica of the originals . . . may I respectfully suggest you have a go yourself. The material and knowledge is out there . . . it's intersting . . . and, it’s probably on the web these days!

[Keith Clements]

Bill Lock has them ex stock, I think.

[Keith Andrews]

I used to have a fibreglass moulding company/factory, we used mould release on new fibreglass moulds..ie bus fronts, caravan tops etc.
For sold items like badges ets where we used silicone moulds, we never used release agents.
Silicone is (was )expensive) back then we used to chop up old silcone moulds and use as filler for new moulds.
To prevent tiny air bubbles foruming on the silcone/ plug surface, the plugs was 1st painted with the silcone, then the whole mould put in a vac chamber.
The same proceedure was carried out with the final product.

[Leo Bolter]

Gidday Keith.

Hey, that’s really interesting, Keith . . . you were in the business! . . . do we now have a “captive expertâ€

[Tony Fearn]

Alan, (not Bartlett for a change!).

I was looking through a box of Jowett electrical things yesterday due to me starting to wire the "Flying Fox".

There were three 'roller' type switches in the box which I suspect must have come from a Javelin. The 'plastic' buttons on the front look their age - rather a yellowish colour. One has a 'W' on the front, the second has an 'H' on it and the last a 'P'.

The plastic fronts of each switch measures 3/4" x 1/2", which when pushed in make the square roller at the back revolve, so I suppose they are all working.

The switches with the 'W' and the 'H' on them have a number stamped on the side - 31148A. The 'P' switch is numbered 31149A.

There is also one rectangular chrome surround ( 1 and 13/16ths inches by 1 and 5/16ths inches which might also be a trim item.

You've said that you know of 3 members needing switches. Perhaps these are the type required. I don't know who needs them, and the quandry is, that if these switches are of the correct type, you'll have to decide who gets them.

I've had them for at least 25 years, but am willing to part with them for the postage. - Let me know to where by private mail.

Regards, Tony.

[ian Howell]

Leo: -

When making rubber mouldings with metal inserts, I have a feeling that any steel surfaces should be 'brass plated', possibly by covering in braze?, as this provides a better 'key' for the rubber.

Is this correct? I guess the rubber stops you re-made would already have had any surface pre-treatment?

Any information would be welcome. It is this sort of thing that you can't find when you need it! (I don't - at the moment anyway!).

[Leo Bolter]

Hello Ian,

Wow! This is turning out to be an interesting thread . . .

I remember the requirements were, for the rubber to steel bonding surface, that they needed to be sand-blasted.

This would be a dual purpose requirement, I suspect.

1/ To remove scale and any rust from the surface (as an instance, scale etc from the tack welding of the bolt which passed through the washer and ended up as the mounting stud, in the case of the torque reaction buffer).
2/ To give a good key for the rubber bond.

As regards to the “brassingâ€

[Alan Stanley]

A local member (Auckland, NZ) has recently tried to mould these and had some difficulty, so will direct him to all the comments on moulding and post his reply. Perhaps with a bit of help he can knock these up.

I have emailed Bill Lock and The UK Spares a few weeks ago but no answer.

Perhaps if anyone else needs a set they should indicate in the posts and maybe there ends up quite a few sets needed to make the effort worthwhile for one of these moulding enthusiasts?

[Forumadmin]

Bill is incredibly busy these days; so please be patient. I will suggest he reads his email!

[Alan Stanley]

Thanks for the heads up on Bill Lock,
Can you confirm the email for thr UL Club spares as that is in the ether also

[Alan Stanley]

Alex Davidson has advised the following on his efforts to mould these parts.

I have successfully moulded various items in the past, but these knobs defeated me. I made plaster of paris three-part moulds from a good original, coated them with melted beeswax (works better than mould release agent), and cast them in two-part resin which I coloured to match the originals (colouring agents available from the art supply shop in Symonds St). Every time I cast one I would have to break the mould to get it out (moulds too small for easy release). After about 100 hours work I ended up with three usable knobs. It was at this stage that I put the project in the "too hard" basket, and there it's stayed.

[Alan Stanley]

Have just heard that these may be aviailable later in the year from Australia. I will follow up and if confirmed will post here.

[Keith Andrews]

Release agents...
There are 2 alternatives
1/ a liquid cellelose, thats sprayed or painted on the mould or plug, ...spraying gives a far more even surface
2/ A non silicone based wax...sepicialist mould release waxes can be obtained thru the fiberglass moulding industry...or a non silcone industrial grade floor wax, as used to be used in hospitals.
This is applied/buffed and let dry 4 or 5 times, with at least 24 hrs between each application.

A good mould or plug (a plug is the orginal unit the mould is made from) should be as perfect as possible...even a finger print will show up in the final product. The least defects from the start, reduces the finishing work further down the line dramatically and increases the life of the moulds.
The celellose release agents give a less perfect finish.

The best moulds for things like knobs would be made out of Dow Chemicals 2 pot RTV silcone rubber compoind...I dont know how expenxive this is now, but back in the late 70s early 80s this was about $120 /liter.
This would be made as a 2 part split mould in a forming box.
The mould can be made in 2 stages or carefully cut into 2 1/2s later, the latter we found to give the best finish resaults
The thickness of the walls at least 50 to 75% of the overall size of the item...for small items like knobs....several units can be incorporated into the 1 mould.

[Alan Stanley]

It does seem that the push buttons and the central rotating knob will be available from Australia before the end of the year.