Whats Next?

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:49 pm

I've almost completed the work on the engine, just waiting for a new capictor now to get it up and running, but my question is what is next? Should I start on brakes, steering?(both seem ok, Ive fiddled a little bit with the rod of the brakes and made a stiffer reaction at the pedal, also the steering is missing a bolt for the box to support it but apart from that it seems ok) Or anything else, my plan is to go from front to back tightening all the bolts to make sure everything is nice a tight and not loose, I've also started greasing the grease nipple points, I've found and done half of them according to the lubirication chart. So whats next really?

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:06 pm

Have a pint!

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:10 pm

Naaa the champers will be out tomorrow if she starts thats what the counts at the moment, perhaps take a spin around the cul de sac

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:23 pm

Hi Alan,

It seems that you've nearly made her go, so you'll need to make her steer, and equally important to make her stop properly.

Before any set-up of the steering, I suggest you dismantle the tubular link which goes from the steering box at one end, to the tie bar at the other end, (note which way it comes off as the 'S' shape isn't equal). Then dismantle the tie bar at each end where it's attached to the drop arms from the stub axles.

The ends of the tubular drag link and tie bar have a screwed cap on them (mole grips help here) which is held in place by a split pin. It is useful if you put a punch mark on the cap opposite to a punch mark on the tube so that when you re-assemble you'll know where the holes are on the tube end. You can't see them when the cap's on. The split pin actually goes through the cap then the tube wall then a brass bush then the tube wall and cap at the other side, so a sort of thin bradawl will help locate them all before you try to put the new pin back, but make sure you don't use force or the bradawl may break off and you'l be in "dickie's meadow".

When a cap is removed, you'll find that there are two brass bushes at either side of a spherical steel ball-like structure. Behind the innermost bush there is a small but strong spring.

The main reason for dismantling, besides re-greasing all these balls and bushes is so that you can INSPECT CAREFULLY the state of the collar of each of the balls just above where they fit through the tube. These should not have any wear on them as these are one of the items on which depends the safety of the steering. Imagine the scenario if one or more is worn and a front wheel goes into a big pot hole and a ball breaks off!

At the same time of course you should check the state of the brass cup-bushes. If all ok then plenty of grease on reassembly and don't forget the split pins.

Your Jowett has rod brakes as you've mentioned, and you've stiffened up the pedal action. When the brakes are 'off' you should be able to hear a bell-like clang when you strike each brake drum with a spanner. This shows they aren't binding when at rest.

But before this, I suggest you remove all the brake rods and look carefully at each end of them. Check the rod ends that bend at right angles and fit through the cast arms of the brake levers. These are very prone to wear. If worn they could break on hard braking. Also check the clevis pins that go through the forks on some of the rod ends and replace if necessary.

Hand brake adjustment is on the bottom of the handbrake lever which you get at underneath the off side running board, and which bears on the brake cross tube. It's a bolt with a lock nut on it.

Setting up the brakes I seem to remember is covered in the hand book, but you'll need to road test it after manually doing this in case the car pulls to one side when braking on the move.

When nut tightening, don't forget the ones that hold the body to the chassis.

Regards,

Tony.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:27 pm

Hi Tony, Could you send a few photos perhaps of what I'm looking at or for? Ill see what I can decifer from your notes

Leo Bolter · Post by **Leo Bolter** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:48 am

Beautifully described Tony . . . Iâ€™ve never even seen one of those cars, but the description came through as clear as crystal.

When nut tightening, don't forget the ones that hold the body to the chassis.

. . . . but aways remember the NUT that's behind the steering wheel should NEVER be TIGHT !!

In jest, (well, maybe not!) Leo

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 12:17 am

Alan,

Rough diagrams posted Tues night.

Tony.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:58 am

Ah right, tony I get you now, sorry when I first read it I thought you were on about the steering column god knows where i got that from, yeah, Ill follow your notes for dis and re assembling Hopefully do it today.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:16 pm

Hi all,

Just spent this afternoon servicing the steering following tony's instructions everything was intact went to put it all back together again, greased all of it, and then it wouldnt go back the same way it came off, for now ive managed to get the bottom bar in place, but the s shaped bar is giving me greif, Im beginning to think im the probelm with the car everything I touch pretty much doesnt like to be touched or moved or serviced. Ha

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:35 pm

Keep at it Alan, whatever it is on the car, if it came apart it MUST go back together and if you have to use 'brute strength' it's probably not the way it should go back so try again.

Perhaps keeping a note of what and in which order with a pencil and paper -(it'll get very oily and grubby) you dismantled it.

Whatever you remove it's always a good idea to mark it in some way. A roll of masking tape and a permanent marker is very useful.

(note which way it comes off as the 'S' shape isn't equal).

"Did you read the question thoroughly"? (That's just a joke)!

At least when it does finally go back together you'll know in your own mind that everything's ok.

Tony.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:38 pm

Hi, tony I dont trust my piece of mind ha, or my mechanical skills, but yes that bit I know was right because I taped up the side that came from the steering box of the s shape, so what ive done for now is rolled it back into the garage shut the doors and left it, I think me and her(Car) need some space

Mike Allfrey · Post by **Mike Allfrey** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:24 am

G'dday From The Sunny South,

I noted mention of a steering box bolt being missing.

It is vitally important that the steering box is located and held in place on the chassis properly. One missing bolt could be the cause of serious trouble further down the road.

Jowett Cars Limited used the quantity of securing bolts that they did - for very good reason!

Good luck with the project,

Mike Allfrey.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 12:04 pm

Note to self NEVER EVER dismantle the steering again, Ive done 3 out of 4 ball so a far, fixed back in place, I took it all apart again to connect the s bar to the tie bar which went fine, then went to connect the tie bar back to the axle joints connected one fine, then went to do the other 2 hours of cursing later it finally went in the b******, just got the split pin to put through on the steering box connection then its sorted, and find a replacement nut and bolt for the support

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:16 pm

Leo Bolter wrote:Beautifully described Tony . . . Iâ€™ve never even seen one of those cars, but the description came through as clear as crystal.

When nut tightening, don't forget the ones that hold the body to the chassis.
. . . . but aways remember the NUT that's behind the steering wheel should NEVER be TIGHT !!

In jest, (well, maybe not!) Leo

That reminds me of a quote from Knight Rider(Huge Fan) "Now There;s Only One Thing Wrong With This Car, The Nut Behind The Wheel" Ha

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 10:16 pm

So often doing things 1st time around can be very frustrating
Expample, pulling the box and colum out of the bradford and replacing...
Took ages figuring out....
Now I can remove and replace in 20 minutes.
The clovebox compartment in the Camaro, 1st time took me 4 hrs, now can do it in 10 mins.

What is so often over looked is wear and adjustments in the steering box, ball joints, kingpins, spring bushes, brakes and linkages, bearings, correct grade of bolts that hold them to gether...
It is all wheel and good getting the engine gearbox, diff etc running well...
But if they are not right it will not only drive like a pig, hit a bump or in an emergency situation u have a good chance of smashing the car and/or dieing.
DO NOT underestimate the importance of the running gear.

The Bradford has a rep of 'wandering' down the road....one not deserved
With rebuilt running gear, it drives as well as any car without power steering, and brakes just as well too.

Im not sure if your steering box is same or similar to the bradford.
Bradfords have a Grease nipple, and because of that they have been geased....WRONG!!!!
Gease causes the shaft to wear and play in the steering....
They used a gease gun with 90 oil in to service the box.

JowettTalk

Whats Next?

Whats Next?

What's next