King Of The Road Lucas Headlamps

[AlanBartlett]

I've got a set of lucas headlamps fitted to my pre war, and was wondering if they have a dip bulb inside? Because recently been trying to get the dip switch working with a realay and when u flick the switch the light doesnt dip or anything just goes out, now ive gone over the relay wiring several times but there still seems to be no change, its either swap the wires round and u get nothing then light or light then nothing. Anyone an electrics wizz?

[Ivor]

Alan, I think you will find that it's working correctly...it just hasn't been converted to the modern set up.

I think I'm right in saying that originally, when you operated the dip switch, the nearside lamp went out completely and just the offside lamp dipped.

I stand to be corrected!

[AlanBartlett]

Alan, I think you will find that it's working correctly...it just hasn't been converted to the modern set up.

I think I'm right in saying that originally, when you operated the dip switch, the nearside lamp went out completely and just the offside lamp dipped.

I stand to be corrected!

It appears that none of them are producing a dip beam of sort just goin out? I dont think that these are orginal lamps?

[george garside]

originaly the offside the dipswitch would turn off the offside headlamp & dip the nearside , this being done by an electromagnet that physically moved the reflector to the left. Some were modified uch later by fitting 'modern' double filement bulbs so both lamps would dip and another poular solution to keeping both lamps alight when dipped was to put a magnetic dipping reflector on the offside light as well so that both remained alight whilst dipped. A third way was to fit modern sealaed beam reflector/glass units inside the original lamps(retaining the old reflectors behind the sealed beam units for appearance sake. This is probably the most effective if regular use in dark is intended
george

[AlanBartlett]

These lights appear to have 3 electical terminals, now ive tried many combinations but still not a lot of luck it seems to be either dip switch flick, the lights go from full to out, or dip switch flick it goes from out to full beam??

[Tony Fearn]

Alan.

originally the offside the dipswitch would turn off the offside headlamp & dip the nearside , this being done by an electromagnet that physically moved the reflector to the left.

Once again George and I am on the same wavelength! - I'm not surprised.

On "Mary Ellen" I have the original type headlights. When I re-wired the car, I did it as per the 1934 wiring diagram that I have spoken of within this Pre-war forum and which is in my album on the 'Gallery'.

There is as I remember a sort of grub screw on the nearside dipping headlight that breaks the contact with the offside headlight when the dip switch is activated. I removed this so that both headlights were on at all times.

As long as the headlights don't dazzle on-coming traffic you can position them so that the offside conforms to this edict, and have the nearside slightly higher until you need to dip, when it won't then be a nuisance.

I can't seem to find the photo of your car so I can't comment on the headlights it carries.

When the dip switch is activated, it takes up one h**l of a current! - about 8-10 amps.

If you have another type of headlamp then a chat to a friendly autoelectrician might be of use.

Tony.

P.S. Just seen your last post whilst writing this reply.

If your headlights have sealed beam inserts, then ignore what I've said above. I don't know anything about them.

Perhaps a little more detailed info about the headlights on your car might stimulate others to suggest remedies. Generalisations don't help.

Regards,

Tony.

[george garside]

just a few thoughts re your 3 terminals per lamp. First check that all 3 terminals on each lamp are actualy wired to something!
Assuming they are there should be on each lamp an earth, a main anad a dip wire, as 3 terminals indicates something on the lines of a 'modern' double dip system. i.e. both lights dip at same time.

Using a meter or test light earthed direct to the battery ( in case the official earth is not!) try to find the live current on each bulb holder with the dipswich in either position. -then do the samae in the other position.

the dip switch should change the live currant from one terminal in each bulb holder to the other. If it is not try connecting the dip switch feed wire to each of the output terminals in turn with a bit of wire & wath what happens to the lamps

if none of this is happening it may well be that the wire from the dipswithc that winds round the steering column has broken - try using an ohm meter on the dipswitch to see if the circuit from it to lamps is working.

As the set up is non original it may also be that 'new' wiring was taken accross from one lamp to the other behind the radiator ( or someother route and that this is missing or at fault

hope this is of some help - at the end of the day & assuming that the dipswitch itself is wrorking ok it may be easiest to rewire completely from the dipswitch output terminals to the apropriate bulb holder terminals.
george

[AlanBartlett]

hi Tony, George

Ive sorted it out now I can't exactly explain but, i wired it up like i had in previous times with no luck and it kind of just worked, it swtiched from dip to main or main to dip, cant explain it just kind of happend?

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

Alan, I do not like electrical problems that come and go. If as several people have commented, the problem is on the supply side then no great fears, if however it is on the output side then you need to be certain that the electrical current is not going somewhere where you do not want it. The worst place is straight to earth as this will quickly leave you with a fire. If nothing happens but the ammeter indicates that something is, then you must find out what is happening and find it quick!
With old electrical parts made with materials with poorer insulation characteristics than modern stuff you cannot afford to assume anything. It is well worth investing in a simple multimeter and using this for continuity testing (you can do it with a torch battery and a bulb and a bit of wire, but the meter is a better way). If anything has a circuit between 2 points that did not ought to have one you need to invest the time and find out why. No lights is a bit annoying, a fire caused by no lights is something else all together!