Water In The Bores

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 10:22 pm

Today I went to test the raidiator connections, a few of the pipes were loose, but my biggest surprise was when the my inlet connection started leaking, turns out it had leaked into the combustion chamber and into the bores, I've tried my best to flush it out taking the plugs out turning it over on the starter and pouring lots and lots of oil down the plug holes turning it over but its still stiff just stick at it would be anyones advice? Ive left it to soak over night for now, but any other ideas, as it is still stiff on the handle

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 10:53 pm

Hi Allan

whatever the cause of the leek or exactly where it is not clear from you posting. Howevr if the pot has haad largish quantity of water I would remove cyl head & clean out & oil bore and also drain sump, leaving drainings to settle so you can see how much if any water went that way.

have just rered you posting in which you indicate that the problem is on both cylinders - if so remove both heads etc. If water is getting into both cylinders it could well be internal corrosion of the induction pipe which has resulted in an orifice developing in the casting between the water and induction sections. Don't know if this is repairable but hopefully you may have a spare one!

It could also be that you have a leak at the gasket between the induction pipe and cylinder but this would haave to be simultaneous on both sides to effect both pots. If so could be caused by distortion of induction pipe flanges. May be curable by using two gaskets each side with copious hermetite- loosen cyl to crankcase mounting bolts - tighten induction pipe to cyl bolts adn then re tighten cyl to crankcase bolts.
hope its nothing t oo serious
george

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:52 pm

I think I would want to know if any water had got into the sump before attempting a tow start. Difficult to do this on a 7 other than by draining. If you know exactly how much wire was showing on the oil level float before the water in the bores see if it's rissen, indicating something extra in the sump!
george

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:59 pm

I always used 2 gaskets per side, not so much to overcome distortion but to prevent any posible breakage of the flange and I suppose to reduce the possibility of distortion. It always worked very well and was one of the many tips I got of Roy Braddock who routinely fitted 2 gaskets per side.
george

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:46 pm

Thanks, I've now drained the water out and its all free and loosened, erm what is the gasket paper called? I've also been using hylomar sealent, I will have to get some more paper and try using 2 lots instead of 1 double up on it on the inlet mainfold.

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:11 pm

allan
paper gaskets may well be the cause of your problem. there should be proper gaskets available for the induction pipe to cylinder joints via the club spares service.They are much thicker than paper & 2 per side is even thicker!! I always used red hermetite as well.
george

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:31 pm

Alan.

George and I have mentioned about two gaskets each side before, as well as the slackening of the cylinder flange bolts prior to tightening up the manifold. I think you should invest in four proper inlet manifold gaskets from Jowett Car Spares and then you can see just what you might need in the future if you have to remove the manifold again.

As George says, paper isn't thick enough for this application.

But I also agree with Pat: -

Turn the aluminium inlet manifold up-side-down and put a straight edge across each flange from bolt hole to bolt hole. There should be no appreciable daylight between the aluminium surface and the straight edge.

You will appreciate that if there is daylight around the centre, where the thin wall is that separates the inlet from the carb, from the waterway tube next to it, however much you tighten the flange to the cylinder top (which is cast iron and will no doubt be perfectly flat), you will never get a perfect join.

If there is daylight when using the straight edge (a steel ruler will do) then as Pat says, you should have the flange trued up by someone who really knows how to do it, unless you are a whizz with a file.

Don't forget the Hermetite as well.

Tony.

AlanBartlett · Post by **AlanBartlett** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:58 am

Right, I've got a few options now, the paper/card I was using was recommended by geoff wills, but he also said that I might need to make it thinker by using 2 layers of card, which you have all stated, so my plan is to make another couple of gasket out of this card gasket paper and see what happens, if it still leaks then I shall get into contact with spares. As for the solution, I have been using hylomar, so would you reccomend hermetite over hylomar or more or less the same stuff?

george garside · Post by **george garside** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:59 am

I think red hermetite is of a thicker consistance than hylomar but both purport to do the same job. You can argue that red hermetite (the red veriety is non setting so can be removed easily) helps to retain originality as it was certainly used by the factory on new Bradford engines.
Personally I would wait for the proper gaskets from jcs spares which will give you time to check & if necessary sort out the flanges as Tony has outlined
george

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:12 pm

Hylomar is a much better gasket sealer than red Hermatite.