What can go wrong after 35 years in pieces?

[Alastair Gregg]

I have just put HKY 770 E2/SA/922R back on the road and staggered to Daresbury and back. However after a further couple of weeks of de snagging, I got cought out by a very old trick.

I live in Derbyshire, for those that don't know; for Derbyshire read "very Hilly" I started to notice a miss fire going up some of our hills. I did the obvious checked plugs, points, coil and drew a blank. But the miss fire used to start and go down to 2 plugs when under a little load, not three then two. Mulling this over I thought one carb was to rich/weak. The plugs however told a different story a nice sandy brown one.

Bowl of the carb however nasty gritty stuff not petrol as we know it. Now yes I had used 5 gallons of Tesco but the cause was a very basic one. Whilst the car had been stored the inside of the tank was open to the elements and the swishing round of the fuel scoured the surface and 35 years of muck bullets and corrosion joined forces on my tiny in line filter (before the pump) and overcame it.

Solution drain the tank swill it out as best as possible and re fill with clean petrol and put an industrial grade fuel filter in the pipe before the pump.

If I still have problems I may be looking for a brain storming session.

[TedAllen]

Hi Al,
Nice to hear you have had the old girl up and running.
There is a product on the market which you pour into your tank, slosh it about and let it dry.
It is known as 'slosh tank sealant '
It should be advertised in Practical Classics or perhaps someone like Woolies will stock it.
I have never needed to use it but perhaps somebody who has will be able to comment further.
Hope you got the oil sorted out.
Regards
Ted

[Ivor]

I've used those sloshing compunds on a couple of tanks and had very good results.

I put a couple of hand fulls of old nuts and bolts in the tank first and with the help of a mate, gave it a damned good shake and poured out not only the nuts and bolts but a bucket full of flakey rust.

Poured in the sloshing sealent, let the surplus drain out, left it a week and Bob's your uncle, no more carb clogging!

The stuff I used was from Woolies I think and was labelled the Complete Automobilist.

[Mike Allfrey]

When I put my Jupiter back on the road back in 1998, I made a very solemn promise to the car - in private.

The promise was that, if the fuel tank started to leak or cause fuel blockage problems, then a new aluminium tank assembly would be made for it. So far, no trouble!

Buxton? Well what memories of that area for my now Australian based Jupiter. Mine used to treat the climb from Ashbourne to Fenny Bentley with utter disdain. The hill at Whaley Bridge was also an easy climb for a good Jupiter!

Congratulations on getting another jupiter back where it should be. They were made to be driven after all!

Regards,

Mike Allfrey.

[Alastair Gregg]

I have just done a round trip of 600 miles this weekend. She never missed a beat

I used something like you suggested Ivor and Ted so thank you it was designed to break the muck into smaller bits for injection systems to get a good cleaning.

Pat it had a small in line filter between the tank and the pump but this was overwhelmed. I replaced it with a bigger "industrial grade" filter.

Impressive memory Mike, my test to see if a Javelin engine was performing acceptably was to stop the Javelin at the Wagon and Horses in Fenny Bently then take her sensibly through the gears and I should be doing 50 Mph or above in top by the time I shot past the Bluebell (Pub). I havn't yet done that with the Jupiter but I'm waiting till she is run in before any sort of trials. Did you live near Buxton, I seem to think you were more southerly than that.

Thanks for your interest.

[Mike Allfrey]

Dear Alistair,

We lived, in the late 1960s, in Uttoxeter. I also went to school in Rocester and we used to cycle all over the Peak District.

Our runs to Dovedale in the Jupiter were the best though!

Regards,

Mike Allfrey.

[Tony Fearn]

Just read a bit about tank sealants in June's 'Practical Classics' magazine whilst on holiday.

Frost fuel tank repair kit: - a four part pack.

1. A cleaner which removes old fuel deposits and other contaminants in the tank.

2. "Metal Ready" that dissolves rust and leaves a zinc coating.

3. A tank sealer that deals with leaking joints, cracks and pinholes.

4. A stabiliser and preservative that is said to keep stored fuel in top condition for two years.

Frost Restorer's Equipment. £45.

U.K. tel no. 01706 658 619 or (www.frost.co.uk).

Hope this might help.

Tony.

[Alastair Gregg]

Thanks Tony, Will check it out if ever I get any muck in my tank again, but 600 miles after the last lot of stuff I put in and she hasn't missed a beat. Reminds me must take the filter out and clean it!

On a slightly different topic:-

Its 35 years since I adjusted my tappets would some one run me through the pitfalls please. The rockers have been machined flat but have a very noisey beasty and want to sort it before venturing out this weekend.

Thanks in advance

[paul wilks]

About ten years ago I had to replace my Javelin tank because the original had a small pinhole in the area around the drain plug (not that I'd use it as a drain plug after 50+ years!) I cleaned the removed tank out and it's been standing dry in my garage for the past 10years.

I'd be grateful for ideas about the best way to repair the hole. Fibreglass or weld?

Thanks

Paul

[paul wilks]

About ten years ago I had to replace my Javelin tank because the original had a small pinhole in the area around the drain plug (not that I'd use it as a drain plug after 50+ years!) I cleaned the removed tank out and it's been standing dry in my garage for the past 10years.

I'd be grateful for ideas about the best way to repair the hole. Fibreglass or weld?

Thanks

Paul

[Alastair Gregg]

Part three of the stuff Tony has highlighted looks as though it may be the gloop for your tank Paul.

[Keith Andrews]

I'd be grateful for ideas about the best way to repair the hole. Fibreglass or weld?

Dont use Fiberglass or epoxys, sure they may work but at the end of the day they are patch up fixes...

Braze or weld....
Caution, even if a petrol tank has sat mt for yrs, it is still a potentual bomb.
A mt tank and fumes are far more explosive than a full tank

Rinse out well seberal times with water, then block the inlet, and fill tru the bottom bung till full....
As the water comes out the bung, visibley check for any sign of 'oils'

Then with no air pocket inside, wave the torch carefully over the bung hole, and drop the level of water to just below where u are going to weld..
Keep the air pocket as small as possible....u may get a couple pops.
Then weld braze up....
Remeber, and gas, air mix has the potentual to blow your head off.
Any remaining gases

[Keith Andrews]

A freind yrs ago used exhaust ....the car wasa bit rich...no one washurt but certainly the old heart was pumping for a few days....and singed eye brows

The other method, similar to Pat, is rinse out well, then fill with a CO2 extinguisher....most home extingushers are powder, not CO2, and then there is the cost of getting the extingisher refilled.

[TedAllen]

Hi Paul,
There is a product available at most car shops called Petro-patch. It is an application similar to fibreglass matting specially for small fuel leaks. I have used it successfully on a couple of cars, the last time on the filler tube of the renault F6C which was perforated at a bend which attracted mud and never really dried out. Unfortunately my son had borrowed the car when you and your dad came round last week so I was unable to show it you. Enjoyed your visit very much....have to have a return match soon
Ted

[TedAllen]

Hi Al and Mike,
Do you remember the railway overbridge at the top of the hill which carried the line from Buxton to Ashbourne ? This was a sign that you were nearly at the top and was an impressive skew girder. This was demolished , last year, I think, and a footbridge put across to carry the Tissington Trail. Another bit of railway history gone.
Al, a useful tool for the pushrod adjustment...Get a foot of 1/2 inch steel bar, cut a slot in one end and weld in a 'cut in half' 3/16 open ender ( a 7/16 AF or 11mm will fit) at right angles. You can now hold the lock nuts from a distance and not have one hand getting in the way of the other. Probably more useful on the Javelin where things are a bit more cramped
Ted