Head drip.

[rob needs]

I think my problem was that i was putting the gasket sealant on too thinly.I put gasket sealer on the block,both sides of the gasket and the head.I actually got my best results doing it this way.I got it down to a drip at each end of the head.Then i put the super duper block sealer in with one gallon of water.This stuff costs £30 but you only need half of it for a four cylinder engine.

There are no leaks at the head now and no water in the sump.Going to take it out at the weekend see if the "old Growler" stays around 75 ish C.

This is with a NZ gasket i had already used at around 8 thou prodtrusion.

[Keith Clements]

Very common problem. Quite often the block is corroded and thin at its lowest points.

Worth checking the block for flatness next time the heads are off.
But you did check gap all around when torqued down to just 20lbs.ft, didn't you?

[rob needs]

I did do the 20lb block test first.The heads were both skimed over last year.As for the clylinder block face, i wouldn't say it was
perfect.I reccon if the clylinder block face on this side was flat,or flater,i wouldn't be having these problems.

One thing i did notice was that there was an grove around stud No8,on the block.It looks a bit corroded in this corner.Of course theres not much le-way seeing that the block face is pretty thin (width wise).

[paul wilks]

Rob

I'm intrigued. Can you tell me please, what's this "super duper block sealer" you used with one gallon of water?

Thanks

Paul

[Ivor]

Very common problem. Quite often the block is corroded and thin at its lowest points.

Worth checking the block for flatness next time the heads are off.
But you did check gap all around when torqued down to just 20lbs.ft, didn't you?

Don't tell me off for asking, but I don't suppose anyone is casting new blocks yet?

[rob needs]

They took orders for blocks way back,they were around a £1000.I heard from Bill Lock that they (the Club) only had about 5 takers. And thats all they were ever going to make.One good point was made by someone,whats the point of getting it all set up to only to cast five blocks.

Cast say 30 and sell them at a an increasing profit over time.

[paul wilks]

Rob

Sorry to ask again but I'd be grateful if you could tell me please, what's this "super duper block sealer" you used with one gallon of water?

Thanks

Paul

[ian Howell]

I recently saw a number of blocks that were going to be scrapped because of corrosion reducing the outside edges where the head fits to a very narrow strip - or even none. There was no other obvious damage.

Assuming (always dodgy I know!) that blocks are serviceable in other respects - i.e. no major cracks, stripped studs (helicoils?), or serious corrosion in other areas - surely these edges can be rebuilt with weld FAR MORE ECONOMICALLY than replacing with non-original castings?

After all, if the edges can be made say 1/4" or 6mm wide, and machined flat, then it should not be impossible to achieve a seal against 4psi of water?

Or have I missed something? (I haven't owned a Javelin for 20 years - sadly).

[Forumadmin]

The original castings were adequate and have only suffered from 5o years of probable neglect leaving acid water in them. They can be built up with weld easily in most places but it is difficult at the bottom of the liners where they often are thin.
Finding a welder who can do it properly without distorting the block is not that easy, and he only has one chance!

[rob needs]

Rob

I'm intrigued. Can you tell me please, what's this "super duper block sealer" you used with one gallon of water?

Thanks

Paul

Silver seal block sealer,i found some on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Surf-2-4-D ... dZViewItem

I got mine from the local car shop.

[rob needs]

Well i took it out on a run and after about 5 miles it starts to creep past the 75c towards the 100c. I could hear it bubbling in the rad when i stoped,no white smoke at the back thou.

I'm thinking about removing the radiator,can a rad firm check it before re-coring?.

[Robin Fairservice]

Don't forget that overheating can be caused by retarded ignition. I had had my radiator pressure tested and cleaned. The car runs cool, and it takes about half an hour to get to 75 C. But, one day it ran hot, to my surprise. On checking everything, I found that the ignition had slipped and was very retarded. Correcting this and making sure that the clamp was tight completely cured the problem.

[rob needs]

I did check the dizy for any movement and it all looked pretty tight.I'v now taken the rad out,there's something rolling around in the bottom.One peice of solder fell out so i reccon there could more inside.The cores look a bit blocked,i'm going to take it to the rad place tomorow,have it checked out.

[rob needs]

The chap at the rad place said "it was 80% blocked".Thats a lot of blocked in my book.he's going to fit new cores,more than the original rad had.

[Ivor]

The chap at the rad place said "it was 80% blocked".

Around here, we have a phrase for radiators like that..."tea up!"

Glad you've found the problem.