A while back i had lots of water in the sump,so i drained it all out refilled with oil and put some exspensive leak sealer in the rad.And i havn't had any water in the sump since.
I had the sump off for days and no water driped out past the copper shims.I'v done both head gaskets,cleaning muck out of the water ways.
I'm wondering wether that sealer i put in could have blocked the rad cores a bit.One day i travelled about 10 miles and the gauge stayed around 75-80c then started to go up towards the 100c mark.Just ticking over it stays around 75c in the garage.
Whats involved taking the rad out?i think i better give that a go.And what about cleaning it out,is this a job for a rad firm.I cant think sticking a hose in the top would do a lot.
Still getting hot.
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rob needs
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Bristol, Gateway to the west.
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Keith Andrews
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:11 am
- Location: New Zealand
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The raditor leak products vary in what they are and how they work...
many of the 'gunge 'type can restrict and even partly block the raditor and water galleries...
The additives tend to ass-u-me the radiator has regular service and flush.
Water cooling systems generally are over looked at regular sevicing /oil changes etc....for yrs on end.
Before pulling the raditor, flush the system, not so much to clear the raditor but the engine galleries....
Flush in a bottle is OK, I use washing machine detergent, about anough for "heavy soiled cloths" predesolved in water...
Run the car for 10 to 20 miles, then flush out till water is clear and no more bubbles.
This would be very likely be enough to clear the raditor enough to stop over heating (if cooling is the problem)
This doesnt mean that the radiator IS clean, just clean enough to give enough cooling that is required...breathing space
Pulling the radiator...disconnect hoses and the required bolts...I have never pulled a joett raditor out yet...
Send the raditor off to a specialists, get the headers removed, cores physically cleaned, pressure/leak tested.
Replace with new hoses....
Note, occassionally the bottom hose can cause over heating....
These have a steel reenforcing spring inside, this stops the hose from collasping under higher water pump flow...suction...restricting water flow.
These spring type reenforcing rust away and break up over the yrs.
When they do the break off and can get jammed in the radiator cores, making the problem greater.
many of the 'gunge 'type can restrict and even partly block the raditor and water galleries...
The additives tend to ass-u-me the radiator has regular service and flush.
Water cooling systems generally are over looked at regular sevicing /oil changes etc....for yrs on end.
Before pulling the raditor, flush the system, not so much to clear the raditor but the engine galleries....
Flush in a bottle is OK, I use washing machine detergent, about anough for "heavy soiled cloths" predesolved in water...
Run the car for 10 to 20 miles, then flush out till water is clear and no more bubbles.
This would be very likely be enough to clear the raditor enough to stop over heating (if cooling is the problem)
This doesnt mean that the radiator IS clean, just clean enough to give enough cooling that is required...breathing space
Pulling the radiator...disconnect hoses and the required bolts...I have never pulled a joett raditor out yet...
Send the raditor off to a specialists, get the headers removed, cores physically cleaned, pressure/leak tested.
Replace with new hoses....
Note, occassionally the bottom hose can cause over heating....
These have a steel reenforcing spring inside, this stops the hose from collasping under higher water pump flow...suction...restricting water flow.
These spring type reenforcing rust away and break up over the yrs.
When they do the break off and can get jammed in the radiator cores, making the problem greater.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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rob needs
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Bristol, Gateway to the west.
I have noticed that the two bottom rad hose's are not correct.The two on there are just straight pipe with crease's in the middle.I can squeeze the two sides together easily with finger and thumb.I have received a pair now from the club,i'm hoping this could solve the over heating problem.Its bound to make it better anyhow.