Josephine rebuild

[Keith Clements]

Thanks for the Whats App, Scott. Pictures added to your Public Album . See herefor a short explanation of how I did it.

[Keith Clements]

Has anyone any rubber (preferably moquette lined) channel that fits in the quarter light left over from a rebuild or knows a supplier? It takes 3/16 inch glass and is 7.5mm high and 7.5mm wide. I cannot find on the Internet (yet).

Ok fixed after speaking with a couple of suppliers one suggested making by own. I used some cloth backed rexine.


Made up a rubber strip out of some piping.

[Keith Clements]

Whilst looking for something else I found a box contain parts taken off the car 30 years ago including bumper, overriders , carpet door strips , windscreen trim and all the tow bar components.

So I then did a trawl around three local chrome platers to discover they have a three month waiting list. Also tried one in Bristol that has the same. So that will go on the back burner for a few days.
Are those the correct overriders for a Jup . They are different to those on the SC.


Back to doing the doors.

[ajackson]

Keith,
Chromer in Leeds quoted 6 weeks but then contacted me after a week to say they are done.
Cannot vouch for finish as I have not picked them up.
May be of help for you?

Andy

[AmilcarJohn]

Those are Javelin overriders I think. Definitely not Jupiter. The correct Jupiter ones are reasonably easily obtainable, as they fit other cars too - A-H 100/4 I think is one.

[Keith Clements]

Thought so, if I cannot find the originals as they may be the ones on Amy's SC, I will buy some Healey as they are £50 each. I have emailed the Leeds chromers. I can always fit the bumper on my way up to Harrogate!

Not much achieved today but I fitted the quarter lights which needed some new brackets fabricating and I made some supporting plates to help prevent the aly cracking, the door latch mechanism was fitted and greased and I rebuilt the window channel which needed some welding.Trial fitted the glass and then painted the channels.

The car has to be out of the garage tomorrow as Amy is using the lift for her Mini. The 100m alley to the garage was overgrown so it was strimmed . We do not want to scratch that paintwork.

[Srenner]

Here in the US, Moss Motors sells units that will work (AH100 or perhaps TR3 fronts?), but the profile of the overrider where it meets the arc of the bumper needs to be opened up considerably on the new part. Also, the attaching bolt is not a welded stud, but a floating carriage bolt, so getting the overrider in the "correct" position is a bit slippery. They also sell the proper rubber finishing strip. If one is careful with the grinder, the new raw edge of the overrider ( painted) will hide inside the rubber. I have also ground to fit and had them properly re-chromed.

The Moss Motors replacements are thinner metal and some of the ones I recieved had the chrome flashed to the steel and were generally of poor quality with visible grind marks under the chrome and/or pitting in the chrome. Last time I order 8 to get four decent ones and was unhappy with those. Last Jupiter, I bumped out the dings on 4 originals and had them re-chromed. Much happier with the results. I have a stack of originals, all needing ding or dent repair and chrome. Delays on chrome here are 4 to 6 weeks, but can happen a bit faster.

[Keith Clements]

Well how long should it take to put in the quarter lights, window channel, window scrapers, door and winder mechanisms, door cards and knobs? Oh and do not forget the door strap. The latter took the longest as the lugs on the A post did not line up with the slot in the door. So after I put everything on I then discovered I had to take a lot off to fix it as the door would not shut.

My first attempt by making a bracket to effectively move the location point on the A post failed. So I resorted to cutting a new slot in the door with the air saw. I first tackled the side that did not have all the mechanism in.


At the same time on one door there was a slight stressing in the last inch of closing. There were four issues to fix. The lugs on the A post contacted the door. I used engineers blue to prove this. They were filed off. A bit of excess aly weld on the door hinge needed grinding off with the Dremel. As did a bit on the bottom hinge (not sure why that was but it was rubbing. And lastly a nut on the door side of the hinge fouled the hinge on the Apost. This required the high speed grinder to fix and was the main cause of the door not closing properly.


The answer is 45 hours.
The top of the window channel is screwed in with two small self tappers. The original was welded.

The bottom had a bracket welded to it. it was located with the glass tightly fitted. Then two holes drilled for self tappers. The original had a bracket welded to it that located with another bracket bolted to the door base. This allowed adjustment in two directions.


The cleaned and painted mechanism. The mechanism was encrusted with Saharan dust that got everywhere when Amy and I were in an horrific dust storm in Morocco.

Slot in the mechanism toothed arc.


Using the winder to get the correct height to slot in glass.


Assisting the wheel to go in its slot. Put the rear wheel in first, then the front one.

This shows the window channel installed and the position of the window to get the two guide wheels into their slot. Note the winder mechanism needs to be loose and not bolted in.



Note that the two bottom screws must not protrude as they will foul the mechanism at top and bottom .

I made up new rubber buffers by drilling a slot in a large fat grummet.

I covered the strap with heat shrink tubing to reduce rattle.


I also refitted the door pockets made out of some pond liner. These were very useful for storing drink bottles and cleaning cloths and all manner of things on long journeys.



This shows the pin that holds the window winder. The plastic bezel needed to scraped with a knife to accommodate the new chome cup so that it freely moved under sping pressure to cover the pin on installation.

[Keith Clements]

Another 3 hours completed the other door.
The grub screw in the door knob

The short screws at the top of the striker plate.

The 2Ba holding the door lever and the two self tappers on the window channel.


Scraper strip secured with small stainless screws.


New rubber buffer


So onto the dash. The wood was rubbed down and given another coat of lacquer.
The rev counter was removed. Thouroghly cleaned with brake cleaner and given some Wd 40. It became more free but needed another clean and oil to bounce back. Then it was calibrated with the drill .

The pointer needed some clamping to grip on the spindle and some bending to stop it touching the glass.

The starter microswitch was changed for an original one.

The renovated cigar lighter was put in after the welds that held the washer for the rally horn push button were ground off.

The glove box was assembled and screwed in.

The car started and the rev counter worked.
.

[Keith Clements]

Thanks Scott.

[PJGD]

Keith,
The rev-counter drive ratio is 3:1, am I right, so 1000 rev/min at the drill was 3000 rev/min indicated?

Philip

[Keith Clements]

No. The input to the rev counter is 1:1. It is the gearbox on the back of the dynamo that does the 3:1 ratio change. The direction of travel is reverse on the drill.
I really should use the rev calibration on my ignition timing strobe to check the overall ratio. But I am unlikely to take this engine to the limit, like I did the race engine. For racing I used a separate electronic accurate rev counter.

[Keith Clements]

I forgot to say that when doing the adjustment of the window channels, the glass came out of its holding runner. I had not renewed this part (although it really needs it) . A job for next winter! Anyhow I stuck the glass back in with Gorilla glue.

However, the position along the glass is critical. make sure the wheels do not fall out at full extension (about half way down) and that the end of the runner is about 1.5cm from the rear window channel. If it is too far away you will have difficulty getting the wheels out of the channel when trying to remove glass.

[Keith Clements]

As usual nothing is as easy as it should be.
The first issue was the steering column did not have its spacer inserted, so the facia touched the column.

Next the starter button was not central with its hole , plus it needed some opening out to prevent sticking and needed a few tries aligning the four screws that hold the switch panel. Then the grab handle holes needed opening out. Much time was spent trying to find a matching set of screws and cups.
Then finding a 6BA bolt for the indicator switch and tapping the hole.

The windscreen L pieces were put in, even though they are the old colour.

The top trim was fitted but I did not like the look of the two strips that direct the demist onto the windscreen so left those off. Something to be painted later.
The horn button needed a lead made up.


I know the mirror is in the wrong place but I find the mounting on top facia panel means I see only my shoulder!
Those wires hanging down are for the programmable ignition advance box of tricks. Something else to get working on a rainy day.

Then onto fitting the hood hinges. One wooden block went in without trouble but the other needed considerable modification. Clearly the apron has been modified to bring it back into shape.


There are many more pictures in the Gallery taken from all angles should you want to make one of these wood blocks.
The hinges on the hood were all checked and many screws replaced with the modern ones that are stronger and bite into the wood a lot better.

[PJGD]

OK, I am not following this.

Let's assume that the engine is running at 1000 rev/min.
The Jupiter Technical Data sheet claims that the dynamo is driven at a ratio of 1.54, so it is running at 1540 rev/min.
The tacho drive gear reduction is 3:1, so the cable and hence rev/counter input is running at 1540/3 = 513 rev/min.
By definition, with this 513 rev/min input, the rev/counter must display 1000 rev/min.

Does this align with your experience; if not, why not?

Philip