Josephine rebuild

[Keith Clements]

For all its life the original Bourdon gauges on Josephine did not work , so they were dug out of the scrap tray and inspected.

The original Jup is on the right and does not have an arc on the facia and also is fixed by two tabs welded to case.
The water temp has similar inards to the more modern ones. So a working one was chosen and the facia swapped and the needle was painted.

Care is needed removing the facia on the water gauge as the needle cannot be pulled off. it needs to be bent and the facia slid out.

Replacement is also difficult as you need to align the needle on its shaft with the stop post. There is a tab on the facia surround that locates in a slot to register the position.
You then need to carefully bend the needle to get it to touch the stop post and not foul the aperture sides.

It might be possible to use some tweezers through the light window by rotating the transparent cylinder (but I just thought of that!).

The facia can be removed by turning the bezel a few degrees.


Note the soldered end which we can use to refill.

The oil temp has no replacement as there are few with an oil temp and oil pressure gauge combined. So the capillary has to be renewed and refilled.

The bulb can have either a female or male nut check which your rad or sump has.

The capillary tube is 2000mm long .

The procedure for refilling follows.
Obtain ether and freezer spray.

[ajackson]

Dear Keith

Coming back to the oil pump pickup, is it the case that you successfully prised up the metal around the outside and inserted a new mesh?
Is there anything else to it please?

Thanks
Andy

[Keith Clements]

It is fairly easy to prise up the metal. But please make sure you fit the correct mesh. Many pumps I have seen have been fitted with an inadequate wide mesh. Some pic- ups have a support above the gauze which you may think necessary as if the mesh gets clogged close to the orifice it could restrict flow. I did not think necessary as the pick up does not present a flat face. Silicon sealant is the biggest culprit of clogging. After a rebuild and/or use of a previously unused block it is worth dropping the sump after a couple of thousand miles and checking the mesh. Note I also put a square of tights in the thermostat housing outlet to catch all the crap that circulates in a new build or from a rad that has been sitting dry for a while.

[Keith Clements]

Use of Dremel cutting disc to make clean cut in tube.


Cleaning out solder in tube with 1 mm drill . A larger drill can be used to clean out to fit the new tube.


Inserting tube covered in flux into bulb. Do not forget put on the nut. Note there are two types of nut and bulb depending on gender of adaptor.


Soldering tube, Solder is applied to hot metal and just enough to flow. No more else it may block tube.


Brushing with soapy water to test for leaks.


Clamping open end covered with plastic tube to seal for leak testing.


Joint tested with soapy water and blowing down filling pipe in gauge.
Note a similar test is done once the bulb is opened up to make sure the tube is clear.



Drilling hole to take short length of tube for filling bulb.


The syringe filled with ether at the gauge end of the tube.
The method suggested on the Internet was to freeze the bulb so that the ether is sucked into the system. Then when the air in the system warms up again it bubbles out at the top. This worked but was slow and not reliable. This picture shows that process. I was not successful so have now decided to use the vacuum pump on this gauge end and have another tube at the bulb end to suck up the ether.




Crimping the filling and suction tubes flat


Soldered up end after filling. Note that a soldering iron is used as ether will explode if naked flame. The filling pipe was squashed flat but you still may find the pressure of vapourising ether blows a hole in your solder. if so more flattening.



The bourdon mechanism.



The oil pressure mechanism a drop of light oil on the gears and bearings helps..



Installed. it was a bit of a challenge getting the nuts through the bulkhead hole with the earth cables going through. Probably should have put them through the hole on the passenger side.

[ajackson]

Hi Keith
Thanks for your reply re: oil pickup.
Drummond has offered to supply the correct mesh.

All the best,
Andy

[Keith Clements]

After a rummage through my spares shelves I found the starter switch and cigar lighter that had been removed prior to the Italian rallies that required a navigator accessible horn button for the Italian hairpins. After a preliminary check when I concluded they needed attention I decided to get the car ready for starting.





The heater coil had a resistance of 1.8 ohms but did not seem to be connected to the terminal . Hence the disassembly.

The diff had fully synthetic 75/90W oil put in it rather than the standard 90W.
The overdrive had automatic transmission oil and the gearbox 20/50 W with molybdenum disulphide additive rather than straight 30W.

Note I made up a filler pipe for the gearbox which I found useful on the rallies where we did 500 miles a day and often in inclement weather. Saved getting everything dirty, plus loads of time and meant there was no risk of losing the filler plug.


The filler pipe is to the right with a plug tethered by a length of wire.
Then onto the brakes . I filled up the reservoir but then noticed a drip coming from the 4 way junction. this turned out to be a cross threaded gland nut. So another junction and nut was found and the pipe remade with the flaring tool. When fitting the gland nuts it is better to leave the four way junction floating and introduce all four pipes by finger tightening about 5 turns only. Then tightening the nearside pipe first then the top and then the rear and front offside . The latter being floating as it should be loosened at its other end. Then locate the junction onto the chassis. Finally tighten up the front offside gland that goes to the rubber hose union.


Then bled the brakes by simply letting the fluid drain out rather than pumping the master cylinder. This reduces air in the system. I did need to pump once slowly to get the fluid over the hump at the rear. Having satisfactory braking after adjusting all the wheel cylinders and pumping hard to centre the shoes the rear axle nuts were torqued up and split pinned. I do it this way in case there is a dripping wheel cylinder or other brake malfunction requiring removal of drum.

Also checked the brake hose deployment throughout full lock. One rubbed on the wheel so the hose was given a twist by loosening the lock nut and feed pipe nut.

[Keith Clements]

Not to be beaten by the cigar lighter, I dismantled it. I cleaned the contact on the threaded post and the contact on the cup that feeds the heating element (which in the picture below is facing the wrong way) but could not see why there was no continuity between the contact button and the cup .
A clean and a punch to tighten the rivet did not cure so I drilled a hole through the rivet and soldered a connecting copper wire into place.
The solder tab in the picture below is for the earth wire.




The washer that looks like a fan washer is a clever non-reusable device for clamping wire. I soldered a wire to it.
To get the cup out it was necessary to prize back the three tabs that hold the spring loaded cup in.
To put back in, a short rod was used to push the cup in between the vice jaws so that the tabs were correctly located.

After testing with the meter the unit was tested using a battery.


The two A post covers were fitted mainly to get them off the list.


The new throttle cable was made up and because the Carbs are DelLorto a different arrangement of spring and anchor was used.


The rad was filled with G05 antifreeze/inhibitor, the ignition coil was installed , the tank had 5 gallons of 3 month old petrol put in and the car started.

Tomorrow will be spent checking all the circuits such as dynamator, fan and thermostat. The prop and wheels will also need balancing, the choke will also need connecting. I suspect I have to make two new choke cables to operate the Dellortos.

[Keith Clements]

The car was given an extended test. The wheels had to be removed because of vibration so that is one job for later. The prop shaft may need some balancing but was not too bad up through to 80 mph. I tried the vibration meter in various places and will need to figure out how best to use it. The engine was a bit lumpy and did not run consistently to start with but gradually got better. More tweaking to be done on throttle set up methinks.
An earth issue was found which interestingly showed as a red warning light on the temperature panel and a blue warning on the wiper indicator. I had also missed an earth wire going to the temperature gauges so that was soldered in. The temp gauges were then calibrated using the infra red temp gun.

Head temp.

Oil temp.

After the test there was a squirting sound which turned out to be the water transfer seals popping. I have always had issues with the o rings supplied. There is too fine a line between crimping too much so they squeeze out and not enough so they pop out. I normally use some flattened old hard ones ! Anyhow cleaned everything up and refitted with a good dollop of silicone sealer and left to set for a couple of days. One issue is that the fit of the transfer into the head and block is loose or bad because the heads may have been shaved. Ideally an O ring groove should be cut in them.

Steam ...

There were also a few minor oil leaks from diff and gearbox drain plugs that required attention and might need some oilite sealant to cure. There was also an oil leak from the layshaft which will need attention the next time the box is out.

The rev counter was also not working so that will have to be checked.

Then fitted the windscreen which had one issue as one of the captive nuts was turning. Luckily I could get a 5mm bolt through the hole up the back with a nut to hold it down. New 1/4 BSF bolts (8 actually 7) were used to hold the outside painted frame along with the 5/16 pointed dome chrome bolts (4) on the outside and 4 BA bolts (10) and 10mm wood screws (6) to hold the glass frame.
The rubber gasket has to be lightly pinched otherwise it pops out. I put sealant on the gasket as well and let that set before a final soft tighten. I had to clamp the gasket in at the ends whilst the sealant set.

[Srenner]

I have been using an X profile o-ring for quite sometime. Made the trip to the Circle.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#90025k402/=1cq3yg8

I have a bag full, so will send some your way for review.
Cheers

[Keith Clements]

Cheers Scott.
The floor was almost fitted today but Amy came around with Sweet Corn and Tomato plants so I had to clear out the greenhouse in 30 deg heat and then dig over two beds that had not had any attention for at least a year. Also planted some runner bean seeds saved from last year.
Then found two air filters and some pipe to fit them. Cleaned them out with carb cleaner and compressed air and gave them a coat of paint after masking off the wire mesh.

Spent some time trying to find the windscreen side trim and the carpet holders across the door. But they have been put somewhere safe and refuse to be found.

Now off for the first BBQ of the year.

[Keith Clements]

The boot has been put in more easily as now there are captive nuts on the rear supports.
The seat was a different matter. Yesterday I was already to take the car out but discovered it could not be adjusted and I could not reach the pedals (much to Amy's amusement).
So I made up new bolts using some modified coach bolts and also after some more testing some 3/16 inch of packing under the rear of the runners so that the overdrive hump was cleared. Now we have full forward and backward adjustment. Also hopefully easier removal and replacement.
I then started at the front of the car fitting and adjusting the bonnet catches. Fitting the sump guard and number plate and the front valance. Scott brought me a rusty front bumper in four parts last time he came over, but as yet I have not assembled, welded, dressed and chromed it. It may be a few months before that is done.

Then the wing mirror, the bonnet chrome name cross and strip were fitted as it was better to do this before the inner wings were put in.

I had thought about modifying some of the trailer wheel arches like I have on the back but decided to use the old but renovated ones. I never have figured out how these should be fitted . Can anyone can tell me, please?

I have a bolt hole at the front and the back and various holes on the top that I assume take some L shaped brackets that go to a wing joining bolt (the brass ones)

see pics.

[Keith Clements]

Looking at that naked front valance , the 4 holes could be used to mount a pair of fog and a pair of spot lights.
So today I will design and make the brackets for the inner wings. Placing could be critical as I try to make sure it does not rub on anything.

[Srenner]

There are brackets in two positions on top of the inner fender assembly, two per assembly. So that means you need a total of four unique brackets, as they are handed. You should find the corresponding holes in the top of the assembly. The brackets then mount to two sets of two wing bolts. Made of the same materials as the original rear inner wing guards. I will get a photo later today.

[Keith Clements]

Thanks Scott. It would be good to see how I should have done it.
The main thing I was concerned about was the height. The contraption could have been designed much better to seal in all the muck, possibly with some rubber flaps . My main reason for fitting was to stop any flying stones from battering the new bonnet paintwork. I did not race with them fitted and for rallies they were held up with tie wraps.

I located the front and then clamped the back in to what i thought was the correct height, putting a slight twist in it to get the position close to the top of the suspension . Then checked for any rubbing with the bonnet closed. Made up a cardboard template for the bracket and cut out of a 1 inch strip of stainless. Fitted to the brass wing bolt in the middle, I then marked the holes, one of the existing holes could be used but I drilled a second new one. I do not think the assembly needs a second bracket, and anyway it would be a pig to fit.







Then onto the chrome work. The parts were dismantled and laboriously cleaned and polished. And with much difficulty fitted with 4 BA chrome screws.
Note the rear part of the headlamp motif has not been fitted as the ones I have do not do justice to the paintwork. Maybe I can get some remanufactured ones.

[Srenner]

Okay, time for bed. Too much effort to post in the gallery and move things around tonight!