Josephine rebuild

[Keith Clements]

Yesterday I was successful in re-facing the flywheel to obviate the need for the shim.
I used the four jaw chuck with the jaws reversed to grip outwards. The clutch side has a recess which, although with a bowl shape, could be used and the crank-side had a small lip which gave enough purchase especially with a live centre.
The only original face, a band from 3 to 5 inches out on the crank side, was used for alignment reference.
The crank face that I had milled was re-faced. Also the lightened part of the flywheel from 5 to 12 inches was also given a skim to act as a reference when turning the wheel around to reface the clutch side.
This method was much easier and more reliable than using the mandrel, except I had to retract the live centre to get close enough to cut the inside half of the clutch face, as the travel on the cross slide was just not quite enough to do in a single cut.

[Keith Clements]

After I had washed the salt off the modern Skoda, the washing machine decided to display Error code F08. After a couple of hours being sent in the wrong direction from helpful souls on the Internet checking operation of the pressure switch and the heating element, I applied some 1970 logic from my days as a computer service engineer. Take all the connectors off, clean all the contacts on the circuit board and put back together. Often when you do this you get a myriad of other faults, but luckily not this time. Overalls are all clean again ready for another day working on the engine!

[Keith Clements]

A selection of clutch plates were examined. They contained various colours of springs. This one with white/blue ones was selected and put in the three jaw chuck with the wide reach jaws in place.

The face was smoothed with emery and the pins greased with brake grease.

From the selection of different friction plates a modern one ( I think from Mazda) with 8.3 mm thickness was chosen ( Part 47238). This has different width of spline as well.


The 5/16 HT bolts were torqued in stages to 20 lb ft with Loctite and external fan washer after depth of thread was checked ( since the face had been refaced).
Note the spare gearbox input shaft used to push in the oiled bush and locate the friction plate.
A new thrust race was chosen.

And a good operating lever, Note the two worn ones in the middle (one with a missing pin) and a bent one on the right.

Then the ball was chosen note there are at least two types.

The brass housing was put in and clamped in place.


A bar was used to lever the operating lever to make sure there was a 1cm of clearance (to allow for wear in friction plate) when the clutch was engaged ( that is when you can freely rotate friction plate). Also check there are no scraping or clicking noises indicating something is fouling inside the clutch. this can happen if the wrong type of friction disc is put in or the clutch is badly adjusted.
See these posts on the set up of the clutch pressure plate which also explain the colour of springs. White in the pressure plate gives a stronger grip than the blue, normal for Javelin. Although there does seem some conflict between the competition tuning notes and other sources.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2931&p=20625&hilit= ... ate#p20625
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2931&p=20625&hilit= ... ate#p16102
Clutch pressure plate 7-1/4 inch (six springs)
MG TC Yellow 120 lbs Red 130 lbs light blue 150 lbs

Austin A30 uses 6 blue springs length 1.58"
Austin A40 (Somerset) uses 6 red springs length 1.96"
Ford Consul uses 6 yellow springs length 1.90"
Ford Zephyr Six uses 6 brown springs length 1.92"
Hillman Minx (side valve) uses 6 yellow springs length 2.225"
Jaguar XK120 uses 12 yellow springs length 2.688"
MG TD uses 6 red springs length 1.93" (or 6 brown 2.11")
Rover 75 uses 9 cream springs length 2.66"
Triumph Mayflower uses 6 yellow springs length 2.255"
Triumph Renown uses 6 green springs length 2.56" (or 3 cream 2.68")
Vauxhall Velox uses 6 cream springs length 2.22"
Vauxhall Wyvern uses 6 yellow springs length 2.225"

The sump was then put on with its brand new silicone rubber gasket (first time I have tried this but they look good) and external fan washers under the nuts. A small amount of silicone sealant was put in the crack where the crankcase meets the clutch housing. Not yet torqued up as I have to test the oil system but they will be to 10 lb ft.
Finally the exhaust manifolds were cleaned and painted and you see here curing on the wood burner.

[Keith Clements]

Found this on the Morgan site.

We will have to see what difference white springs produce.

Exhaust manifold metal faces were smeared with exhaust putty and stainless washers and nuts applied after cutting new studs to length. I put as much torque as I could get on with the narrow 5 inch ring spanner.




The engine was then turned by rotating on the engine frame. Then filled with oil and a spare distributor drive driven by the electric drill on slow speed through a large slotted blade. First the system was primed by leaving the oil pressure gauge off. When oil came out which meant the oil filter was full, the gauge was attached. Oil pressure went up to 75 psi with oil flowing out of the brass union and the rocker covers also received oil. So all good.



That vertical line coming out of the base of the brass cowl is a stream of oil that lubricates the timing chain.

[Keith Clements]

As a postscript to the oil pressure test, I noticed that the spray that supposed to come out of the top of the oil pump was not and so no lubrication to the oil pump gear. So a poke with some wire and then compressed air cleared the blockage which I suspect was some grease (the pump had been assembled with grease and I had tried to clean it out) Note to self- blow out with air before reassembly and do not use grease!
When running up to pressure now the spray went a couple of feet in the air which is why when testing I normally have an aly cover over the hole.


So then fitted the brass drive worm gear, rotating both to align the keyway and inserted the key.



Then looked at my stock of sprockets. The least worn one (even though number one was a new one allegedly) was number 6. Look at number 9 with flat faces.
The distances were between opposite valleys, one at the dot marks the other at the keyway. Note that because of an odd number of teeth either one of two opposite valleys can be chosen, for consistency I chose one in a clockwise direction.

The one I selected ( No 6. ) was considerably wider (57.46 to 57.49 mm) and thus I surmised less worn. We shall see if there is a difference in slack tomorrow. Perhaps the dimensions of the new one were incorrectly specified or just badly made! I did check all teeth distances on the one I selected.

[Keith Clements]

I had a thought this morning that I was not happy about the wide 3mm mesh in the gauze on this pump which came with the engine as usually I fit a fine mesh one. Any gauze fitted must be less than 0,5mm as that is the bore of the spray hole.

You only have to see the crap collected by the fine mesh including bits of gasket, silicone, metal and carbon to realise what might have gone up to block the worm gear spray or the chain oil feed.

So that will have to be changed.

[Nick Webster]

Interesting little snippet about the clutch lever fulcrum ball sizes. I cannot find alternative part numbers for these in the parts book and so wonder if in fact it was done during factory engine reconditioning if the ball was found to be a loose fit in the bellhousing. It would be relatively easy to over bore the hole and make a new part to fit. Just a theory... it could alternatively be one of the myriad of minor developments that occurred as production went on.
Have you come across many of a larger size?
Nick

[Keith Clements]

Probably about half and half. Scott recons there may even be another version.
I have not checked to see if any change coincided with the clutch housing change from rectangular to pear shaped access hole. Wear does occur, particularly if the ball is not completely in because of gasket goo.
Note too the issue with clutch gearbox gaskets which if too thick (and have the hole for the ball and possibly bell housing) will prevent clutch from operating as explained somewhere on JT but currently cannot find it!

[Keith Clements]

On Friday I went to our rugby ground to discuss with the events manager location for our band in which I drum. We checked out the acoustics from a stage in a corner. Saturday was an important match as we had to get at least 4 tries, a win and a good points difference to have any hope of staying in the fight to retain our European title. Then we had to rely on the results of another three pools to see if we could qualify. Luckily one pool meant we stayed in the hunt by the skin of our teeth. The drums were the loudest they had ever been and we finished off with the trumpeter playing 'When the Saints go marching home".
Today got back to the engine and checked out the spray hole which is 0.9mm and the gauze on the SA which is 23 wire /cm so about 50 mesh.


I checked out a couple of probably original meshes and have decided to purchase some 60 mesh, stainless 304l (only £9 and it should do 6 pumps). I now use 10/40 oil rather than 20 /50 so initial prime should be OK not that there is anything to indicate that a finer mesh would inhibit flow too much.

I must warn everyone to check the mesh, not only for holes but also for mesh size as I suspect a number of refurbed pumps have been incorrectly done. The danger could be quickly worn oil pump drive gears and timing chain or worse seizure. In my collection I have some very worn drive gears!

If you go back to the 17th Jan post you will see what I mean about the size of the mesh on this reconditioned pump. This one got through my mental checklist for a while but now will be resolved.

[PJGD]

Keith,
I have not tried it, but is it really possible to successfully pry up the smashed over lip of the oil pick-up to replace the mesh, and then hammer it back without fatigue of the metal? It is certainly worth a try in cases where there is a hole in the mesh.

Also, one needs to be aware that there is a difference [in the arm crank] between the pick-ups for the early pump and those for the later [larger] pump and not get them mixed up. Also, make sure that the end of the pick-up remote from the pump has got a turned down lip so that it is impossible for the bottom face of the sump to obscure access to the pick-up.

While you have these various pumps apart, could I ask that you use your vernier calipers to measure the height (i.e. the face width) of the oil pump gear for the early [small] pump. I have the dimension for the later pump but not the early one. Thanks.

Philip

[Keith Clements]

Yes I have successfully replaced the mesh but a long time ago and will do it again this week.

I will also do what you requested. A picture on my 21st Dec post shows the different crank of the early and late pumps.

Not sure about the turned downwards lip as I think I would prefer not to risk cracking the pick-up brazed joint. I have not seen that mod before, should only really be required if the sump has taken a yump and two of my engines have had that issue on rallies. John Blankley suffered it whilst traversing a ford on an engine I lent him for a Welsh rally and Amy and I had a massive yump in Morocco thanks to a Bedouin kid and a large rock which bent the thick steel sump guard.

The pick up is a fair distance from the bottom of the sump to prevent pick up of sludge. On this oil test I did notice that aeration occurred when the oil level was just below the lower oil level mark. So a warning to all keep it topped up as oil pressure will still be good even though there is aeration.
This is also a reason why my race engine has complex baffles to prevent oil level change around the pick up on long corners and a flap door for oil surge up the timing cover when braking hard. The bomb hole curve at Snetterton proved I needed the first mod and following Geoff McAuley on a rally in Northumbria when the oil went up the crankcase breather pipe and was inducted, suggested the second mod.

[Keith Clements]

Results from 4 different pumps 30.03, 29.94, 30.05, 30.05 mm Since these were all 'worn' pumps the original may be different.

Oh and in my search I found two pick ups with turned down noses , about 5 mm of the tip bent at a right angle. I really cannot think why. In my defence I have always used late pumps on all three cars.

I also found 8 pickups, 4 of which had holes in the mesh and one had a wide mesh. Also one did not have a brace across to support the mesh so the mesh rested on the inlet pipe effectively making all the oil go through 1 sq cm of mesh. This would quickly clog up .

So another red card warning!

So today removed the pump with the wide mesh and replaced it with the one from the SA with a fine mesh. The oil came out of the spray hole but not high enough to reach the gear at 60 psi, even after a compressed air and clearing out with a .95mm drill. So will ponder this. It is a bit colder today and no wood burner on, so maybe it is viscosity.

[PJGD]

Keith,
That is the face width for the later [large] gear - right? I need the dimension for the early [small] gear when you have a chance. Thanks

[Drummond Black]

Oil Pump Mesh
I replace all pumps with a new mesh to the fine Jowett Spec, but with one in Stainless Steel. Have the mesh in stock here. Very easy to fit.

Drummond

[Keith Clements]

No- that is the height of the smaller, I suspect they are the same. I may try to check- if I can find another deeper pump.