Rear axle pinion oil seal - repair?

[Bronteboxer]

Chaps,

I am looking for your long held experience and valued advice on the question of replacing the axle pinion oil seal. I have checked around the forum, looked at the manual and I am no wiser! I presume this applies to Javelin also, so have checked around in that area.

It's not something I did when I restored the car, but now it's seems to have sprung a leak. I hope to solve this over the winter season. But to do that I really need your advice on the best way to takle this. I am sure it must be a job many Jav & Jup owners have done over the years!

Look forwards to your replies.

Kind Regards, Graham.

[Keith Clements]

This search worked for me
search.php?keywords=pinion+oil+seal

[Bronteboxer]

Thanks for the link.

It more or less replicates the search I did, but I have been through the threads and as far as I can see, non of them actually say how the job should be tackled, any special tools needed, issues which might be encountered etc

I was hoping that somebody who had done the job with the axle on the car would be able to give me some basic steps on its completion.

Regards, G.

[Keith Clements]

The hardest job is removing the old seal. One thread suggested drilling two self tappers into the seal to remove it. I have used a pair of screw drivers in the past and have also fabricated an adaptor for a bearing puller. The thread also gives a source of replacement seals.
This thread gives you the socket size.

The basic steps are .
1. Mark position of prop flange in relation to rear axle flange with marker. Undo four bolts that hold Universal Hardy Spicer joint holder to input flange of pinion shaft.
2. Disconnect the rear prop from the rear axle.
3. Remove split pin from nut on end of pinion shaft.
4. Mark position of input shaft in relation to rear axle flange with marker. Undo nut on shaft and remove splined flange.
5. Remove seal.
6. Check for wear or roughness on seal bearing surface.
7. Fit new seal. This requires care so as not to distort by applying even pressure around the whole circumference.
8. Align marks and refit splined adaptor, with nut and new split pin.
9. Align marks and refit prop shaft. I use Loctite threadlock on nuts.

By the way have you checked the breather hole is clear?

[johnairey]

The axle I have in work at the moment has a gasket under the pinion oil seal item 2 Page 64 in manual.
If you have a problem removing the joint flange item 21 you can use the puller for the gearbox joint flange.
Important that the pinion nut goes back in exactly the same position to maintain the pre-load on the pinion.
Machine Mart do lever for removing oil seals.

[Bronteboxer]

Chaps,

Thanks, those comments and instructions are extremely helpful. Just what I was hoping for. The notes about marking up the flange and also the tension for preload are particularly useful.

My Jup has just had an enforced lay off of 15 months and during that time, it dropped the oil. After a big push to get it roadworthy for last Sunday - watch out for a picture hopefully in the Jowetter in the next couple of months with it and 3 pre wars at a local event - after running for a few miles the axle seepage seems to have reduced to virtually nothing! Yes there is oil in there! Despite the leak, I changed it as part if the routine maintenance to put it back on the road. Once I have run it a bit more and determined what's going on I will post again re doing the job etc.

Next job to be looked at is tracking.... pondering on using a Gunson Trackrite....?

Thanks again chaps, your time to help is very much appreciated.

Kind Regards, Graham.