Early Javelin Restoration
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Keith Clements
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Glove box.
You might not think that fitting a glove box would take so long. But first I had to repair one of the six clips that held it in. This I did by having a rectangular plate 15mm x 50mm so as to cover the hole in the fibre board. In this I drilled a hole suitable for the self tappers used to fix. Although not original, it had been fitted with crosshead screws so these were reused. To align six holes at the same time is a challenge, So first screws were temporarily put in all six holes to line up the fibre box. Then the bottom two were taken out and the surround inserted at an angle to get those two in loosely. Then the side two were taken out and the surround moved back. Then the side two were loosely replaced. Finally the top two were removed, the surround moved back and then the screws replaced. All six were then tightened.
Also sorted the bezel on the clock.
I also took the car for a test drive just out of the garage, leaving some skid marks on the garage floor. So the brakes now work. Idle is OK but the car still has a problem when first starting. It requires a drop of petrol down the inlet tubes then it fires first rev.. It may be that the pump is not priming even though I do it manually and the starter motor turns over enough that it should prime the float chambers. It starts on first rev every time after that.
The day was completed sorting a Bradford dash for Chris and looking for a wooden Javelin dash and some rear wings for him also. I also started to put back some of the many fastenings into their correct boxes, having been strewn about during the technical week.
The day was completed sorting a Bradford dash for Chris and looking for a wooden Javelin dash and some rear wings for him also. I also started to put back some of the many fastenings into their correct boxes, having been strewn about during the technical week.
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Keith Clements
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Prop shaft and midship support
I collected the propshaft from Coventry on Friday, battling with the M1 traffic. I am glad I was not travelling north when I was coming back as there was a 30 mile queue. Even so when I went up there were speed restrictions the whole way. On Saturday I proceeded to cut sections out of the base at each end for the bolt heads and also scalloped out where the knuckles touch at full angle as I have found they usually hit at full droop. Then I found the fixing holes were a different size but worse they were at a different pitch circle being 2.75 inch rather than 3 inch of the NZ mod. So not wanting to risk remaking the adapter plates, Peter will have to wait until Bill Lock gets some made.

So basically two days wasted, although I did notice the midship support was touching its brackets on both sides , so it was adjusted.


Amy also came around on Saturday to polish the SC and noticed an oil leak from the sump so fixed it.

I also took TOPIC various pictures of the underside which hopefully is in its finished state before waxing.
So basically two days wasted, although I did notice the midship support was touching its brackets on both sides , so it was adjusted.
Amy also came around on Saturday to polish the SC and noticed an oil leak from the sump so fixed it.
I also took TOPIC various pictures of the underside which hopefully is in its finished state before waxing.
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Keith Clements
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Sealing or ceiling
After fixing a petrol leak on one of the banjos, I set about filling with grommets and silicone sealant the 50 or so holes vacated by non-existent screws. Some may well be needed for carpet fixing, but the chances are they will not. I also made a boot to go around the gear shift and steering columns. All to make the interior water tight and draught free. Well I live in hope!
I really would like to know what those holes all did. There are also some captive nuts either side of the bulkhead that must be for something.


I really would like to know what those holes all did. There are also some captive nuts either side of the bulkhead that must be for something.
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
My Facebook page has some interesting replies on what those captive nuts are for either side of the bulkhead just below the rear air vent.
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Trim trim, seal seal.
So in the last 11 days I have been in the garage every day for about 6 hours a day. It is amazing how long things take to do. Some time was taken sorting fasteners and ordering more. If only everything was metric, things would be simpler.
An oil leak was persistent around the petrol pump. This was traced to a stripped thread on the lower holding stud. No easy job to fit a helicoil and after many attempts at trying various ways to bore out the hole and thread it for the coil the job was completed.
Chris came around and spent a day masking up and spraying chassis members with penetrant, other exposed surfaces with protective sealant and the wood with a sealant.








The finished result is shown in this sequence.





















Since we had so much trouble fitting the exhaust here are a sequence of pics showing the joints which may help future installation.







Then I started installing the trim. First cutting out the millboard for the boot lid. Installing the seat was a challenge. The upholsterer had covered the fixing holes so they had to be punched out and labouriously cleaned out. Pulling it back into where it should be required various stages of studding and bolts, as well as adjusting up an down and sideways.

Then the door cards, window and door handle covers and inner trim for window.
I had to form the felts that hold the glass and fit these to the cream trim.
After many body contortions, I fitted the wheel arch trim panels.

The rear winders had the chrome surrounds . These were fitted after some modification on the lathe but will be changed at Goodwood for cream plastic. The C post trim was also fitted. These panels will have to be released to fit the beading around the door .

Whilst fitting the carpet, the dip switch cap popped off and nearly knocked me out. After a couple of hours figuring out how to repair it the solution was quite simple with a hole drilled for a self tapper. The first issue is not shoving the plunger fully in as it is difficult to get back out and the second is holding the cap on with the strong spring resisting. A piece of wood was cut to length to do this whilst the self tapper was fitted.
Chris then came around to fit the remaining glass.




Then we had a few problems starting and getting the slow running correct which was traced to closed up points. Also the bonnet catch needed a compression spring fitted around the cable to push the lever forward. There is still lots to do but...
... off Rhowina went......

Chris made the 70 miles to his place where he will do the headlining and bits of touch up.
An oil leak was persistent around the petrol pump. This was traced to a stripped thread on the lower holding stud. No easy job to fit a helicoil and after many attempts at trying various ways to bore out the hole and thread it for the coil the job was completed.
Chris came around and spent a day masking up and spraying chassis members with penetrant, other exposed surfaces with protective sealant and the wood with a sealant.
The finished result is shown in this sequence.
Since we had so much trouble fitting the exhaust here are a sequence of pics showing the joints which may help future installation.
Then I started installing the trim. First cutting out the millboard for the boot lid. Installing the seat was a challenge. The upholsterer had covered the fixing holes so they had to be punched out and labouriously cleaned out. Pulling it back into where it should be required various stages of studding and bolts, as well as adjusting up an down and sideways.
Then the door cards, window and door handle covers and inner trim for window.
I had to form the felts that hold the glass and fit these to the cream trim.
After many body contortions, I fitted the wheel arch trim panels.
The rear winders had the chrome surrounds . These were fitted after some modification on the lathe but will be changed at Goodwood for cream plastic. The C post trim was also fitted. These panels will have to be released to fit the beading around the door .
Whilst fitting the carpet, the dip switch cap popped off and nearly knocked me out. After a couple of hours figuring out how to repair it the solution was quite simple with a hole drilled for a self tapper. The first issue is not shoving the plunger fully in as it is difficult to get back out and the second is holding the cap on with the strong spring resisting. A piece of wood was cut to length to do this whilst the self tapper was fitted.
Chris then came around to fit the remaining glass.
Then we had a few problems starting and getting the slow running correct which was traced to closed up points. Also the bonnet catch needed a compression spring fitted around the cable to push the lever forward. There is still lots to do but...
... off Rhowina went......
Chris made the 70 miles to his place where he will do the headlining and bits of touch up.
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Forumadmin
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Keith Clements
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- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:22 am
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Preparation for Revival
Aug 28, 2017
So one of my fellow 'Jowetters' (Keith) has been plugging away at getting things done on the Javelin - Now in a running condition but still requiring a few odds plus the interior trim installing - I spent all of today over at Keith's (120 mile round trip from my place) Main reason was to get the rust proofing done then the interior trim can be refitted


Dash completed

Front bench seat fitted



So after much masking up of the underside / topside I could treat the cavities within the chassis / box sections

I have used & trusted Dinitrol products for many years - really good quality stuff - ML is very good and creeps in to all seams / joints / flanges - perfect for cavities - I use a simple lance to ensure I get into the difficult areas


But it does go everywhere!

Next was the 4941 underbody wax which affords a good level protection to factory standards to all exposed panels on the underside of the car






Applied correctly it will give a factory finish in appearance but more importantly affords a high level of corrosion protection - although the vehicle was never undersealed / protected originally the car will shortly be leaving the UK to the owners home country of Switzerland - The car will also see regular use this is not going to be a trailer queen hence although not original I would rather ensure that the vehicle is protected against corrosion than attempt to keep the underside has an original factory finish with next to no corrosion protection

Next was to install the sound deadening pads to the inside face of the door skins - again a non original fitment but should prevent any undue noise from within the door shell

Finally I treated the interior cavities - still with a Dinitrol product 'Penetrant' which is a transparent cavity treatment

Now we have a bit of a push on to ready the car for the weekend after next 'Goodwood Revival' where the car will put into service with the period taxi fleet - still a way to go yet though - plan is for me to collect it on Wednesday and bring it over to my place so that I put a few hours into it on a daily basis - there is all the interior trim including the headlining along with a few areas of paint that has sustained damage that will require sorting

Aug 31, 2017
Went over to Keith's today - fitted the rear window

Odd fitment with the window being fitted from the inside to the outside
Sealed up and the chrome trim fitted which was a royal pain due to the trim being badly sprained whilst being rechromed

Then put my trade plates on it - filled it with fuel and drove it the 60 miles back home



So now I can crack on and try to complete the odd bits of paint & trim that it requires before next Thursday
Sep 2, 2017
Tackled the most time consuming job first - the headlining
Initial fit on to it's support rails

The door aperture beading has to be applied has part of the process

Lots of staples and trim glue later - the rear comes together - parcel shelf fitted along with the metal window trims

Front end likewise

The door aperture beading & headlining fasten / staple at the same point

Fortunately SWMBO owns this professional air powered upholstery staple gun which made lighter work of the task

A separate trim is then glued over the staple line / headlining / aperture trim to hide it

Front completed, window trim & rear view mirror fitted along with the interior light

Probably all looks simple but headlining's are not something you can rush - this has taken me a fair few hours to complete - there is a few very minor ripples but nothing that a steaming will not sort
Then started to sort the carpets - rear seat upstand & floor done along with the chrome edge keeps

So one of my fellow 'Jowetters' (Keith) has been plugging away at getting things done on the Javelin - Now in a running condition but still requiring a few odds plus the interior trim installing - I spent all of today over at Keith's (120 mile round trip from my place) Main reason was to get the rust proofing done then the interior trim can be refitted
Dash completed
Front bench seat fitted
So after much masking up of the underside / topside I could treat the cavities within the chassis / box sections
I have used & trusted Dinitrol products for many years - really good quality stuff - ML is very good and creeps in to all seams / joints / flanges - perfect for cavities - I use a simple lance to ensure I get into the difficult areas
But it does go everywhere!
Next was the 4941 underbody wax which affords a good level protection to factory standards to all exposed panels on the underside of the car
Applied correctly it will give a factory finish in appearance but more importantly affords a high level of corrosion protection - although the vehicle was never undersealed / protected originally the car will shortly be leaving the UK to the owners home country of Switzerland - The car will also see regular use this is not going to be a trailer queen hence although not original I would rather ensure that the vehicle is protected against corrosion than attempt to keep the underside has an original factory finish with next to no corrosion protection
Next was to install the sound deadening pads to the inside face of the door skins - again a non original fitment but should prevent any undue noise from within the door shell
Finally I treated the interior cavities - still with a Dinitrol product 'Penetrant' which is a transparent cavity treatment
Now we have a bit of a push on to ready the car for the weekend after next 'Goodwood Revival' where the car will put into service with the period taxi fleet - still a way to go yet though - plan is for me to collect it on Wednesday and bring it over to my place so that I put a few hours into it on a daily basis - there is all the interior trim including the headlining along with a few areas of paint that has sustained damage that will require sorting
Aug 31, 2017
Went over to Keith's today - fitted the rear window
Odd fitment with the window being fitted from the inside to the outside
Sealed up and the chrome trim fitted which was a royal pain due to the trim being badly sprained whilst being rechromed
Then put my trade plates on it - filled it with fuel and drove it the 60 miles back home
So now I can crack on and try to complete the odd bits of paint & trim that it requires before next Thursday
Sep 2, 2017
Tackled the most time consuming job first - the headlining
Initial fit on to it's support rails
The door aperture beading has to be applied has part of the process
Lots of staples and trim glue later - the rear comes together - parcel shelf fitted along with the metal window trims
Front end likewise
The door aperture beading & headlining fasten / staple at the same point
Fortunately SWMBO owns this professional air powered upholstery staple gun which made lighter work of the task
A separate trim is then glued over the staple line / headlining / aperture trim to hide it
Front completed, window trim & rear view mirror fitted along with the interior light
Probably all looks simple but headlining's are not something you can rush - this has taken me a fair few hours to complete - there is a few very minor ripples but nothing that a steaming will not sort
Then started to sort the carpets - rear seat upstand & floor done along with the chrome edge keeps
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p.p.
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- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Just get Home.....a 250 mile ride from Goowood to Bralle (France)
after Goodwood this year the cleaning is very importent!!!
Underbody steem cleaning this morning - mud - mud - mud.......
now it looks nice and shiny
Tomorrow: Breaking Light to attend,
Indicator side and back to check, the cables...

after Goodwood this year the cleaning is very importent!!!
Tomorrow: Breaking Light to attend,
Indicator side and back to check, the cables...
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
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p.p.
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
yesterday:
braking light fixed...: connection !
indicators..............: back is fixed also connection,
side: broken spring, will have to get from the interior to it! do it - monday
just find that the mountig bracket bolt ar missing - made a photo send it to Keith: Keith sending it to me -
heather not working
lookt the connection: perfekt so i get it apart: the rotor is not working, little bent - easy shop:
now working for the cold day's in switzerland (missing tube for the frontwindow demist: will attend monday)
today:
Rear wheel leftside.........: swapped with the spare wheel , now it work's perfect, no wobeling !!!
in the front the car is to low, wheel arches ....
torsionbar: higher now it works - real no problem to do
swopping the back bumper - now it looks very good!!
also got me yesterday: Voltmeter!!!
monday's work:
Greasing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hope i find all greasing nipple
get myself a startercable and towingrope !!!
braking light fixed...: connection !
indicators..............: back is fixed also connection,
side: broken spring, will have to get from the interior to it! do it - monday
just find that the mountig bracket bolt ar missing - made a photo send it to Keith: Keith sending it to me -
heather not working
now working for the cold day's in switzerland (missing tube for the frontwindow demist: will attend monday)
today:
Rear wheel leftside.........: swapped with the spare wheel , now it work's perfect, no wobeling !!!
in the front the car is to low, wheel arches ....
torsionbar: higher now it works - real no problem to do
swopping the back bumper - now it looks very good!!
also got me yesterday: Voltmeter!!!
monday's work:
Greasing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hope i find all greasing nipple
get myself a startercable and towingrope !!!
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
-
Keith Clements
- websitedesign
- Posts: 3968
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:22 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jup NKD 258, the most widely travelled , raced and rallied Jowett.
- Given Name: Keith
- Contact:
Enjoy your baby
As Bill Lock suggested to you at Goodwood, you need to adjust the shock absorbers to get a softer ride.
Keep an eye on that ride height after you adjust the shock absorbers, it should not have required adjusting again.
I had marked the timing cover with blue paint (just beside the fuel pump) where there was a water leak. Please check that it has stopped leaking there. The bolt had been stripped and stuck in with sealant. I made a temporary repair by removing the washers. It will need a helicoil if it continues to leak. http://www.tracytools.com/helicoil-thre ... repair-kit
You also need to extend the horn wire connection to the steering column. It is currently too short and frequently disconnects.
Make sure you check gearbox, engine and diff oil levels every 500 miles as well as water and brake fluid levels each time you take out. Do not over fill rear axle with grease, five short pumps should be enough to bring fresh grease out of the bleed hole.
The brake shoes should now be bedded in so adjustment is due.
Otherwise start to learn all that is in the workshop manual and enjoy your baby!
Keep an eye on that ride height after you adjust the shock absorbers, it should not have required adjusting again.
I had marked the timing cover with blue paint (just beside the fuel pump) where there was a water leak. Please check that it has stopped leaking there. The bolt had been stripped and stuck in with sealant. I made a temporary repair by removing the washers. It will need a helicoil if it continues to leak. http://www.tracytools.com/helicoil-thre ... repair-kit
You also need to extend the horn wire connection to the steering column. It is currently too short and frequently disconnects.
Make sure you check gearbox, engine and diff oil levels every 500 miles as well as water and brake fluid levels each time you take out. Do not over fill rear axle with grease, five short pumps should be enough to bring fresh grease out of the bleed hole.
The brake shoes should now be bedded in so adjustment is due.
Otherwise start to learn all that is in the workshop manual and enjoy your baby!
skype = keithaclements ;
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p.p.
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
checked:
engin oil - hade to fill up at Goodwood monday morning small amount....
water - hade to fill up in Goodwood monday morning with 1liter of water, now all ok after the ride to Baralle!
breakfluid - perfekt
gearbox oil - perfekt
still have to do:
diff oil
got allways the workshop manual with every step with me - look, read, look, read and work, check again !! and the garage man - Dave - has to control me and my work....
Breaking adjustment will do a Dave, has to be perfekt.....my and other's live will be on stake!
i will tray to get the pic smaller....so i will hopefully show it at the forum....i already enjoy me Girl "Rhowina"
engin oil - hade to fill up at Goodwood monday morning small amount....
water - hade to fill up in Goodwood monday morning with 1liter of water, now all ok after the ride to Baralle!
breakfluid - perfekt
gearbox oil - perfekt
still have to do:
diff oil
got allways the workshop manual with every step with me - look, read, look, read and work, check again !! and the garage man - Dave - has to control me and my work....
Breaking adjustment will do a Dave, has to be perfekt.....my and other's live will be on stake!
i will tray to get the pic smaller....so i will hopefully show it at the forum....i already enjoy me Girl "Rhowina"
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
-
Keith Clements
- websitedesign
- Posts: 3968
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:22 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jup NKD 258, the most widely travelled , raced and rallied Jowett.
- Given Name: Keith
- Contact:
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
My purple inscriptions. As you found out I have marked on each hub the 50 Newton Metre torque setting for the wheel nuts. Most garages will put too much on them.
Also Silicon only DOT 5 ( not 5.1) brake fluid. Not necessary to change ever.
Glysantin G05 antifreeze coolant 30%. You can increase to 50% for -25C. Currently -10C. Check glycol strength every year with hydrometer and renew every 3 years to get inhibitor levels back.
SA30 engine and gearbox oil. You can swap to 20/ 50W if you want which may handle better the range of temps in Switzerland. Change every 6000 km with filter.
EP80 or EP 90 in differential. Change every 10000 km.
Also Silicon only DOT 5 ( not 5.1) brake fluid. Not necessary to change ever.
Glysantin G05 antifreeze coolant 30%. You can increase to 50% for -25C. Currently -10C. Check glycol strength every year with hydrometer and renew every 3 years to get inhibitor levels back.
SA30 engine and gearbox oil. You can swap to 20/ 50W if you want which may handle better the range of temps in Switzerland. Change every 6000 km with filter.
EP80 or EP 90 in differential. Change every 10000 km.
skype = keithaclements ;
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p.p.
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Your purple inscriptions is helpfull!!!
all wheel a checked to 50 NM !
Glysantin will be 50% (Switzerland)
Oil already swaped to 20/50 !
also made the rearlight for the rear windows so everybody can see "Rhowina" !!
the rear numberplate holder are under way....tuesday will be finish.....hopefully
all wheel a checked to 50 NM !
Glysantin will be 50% (Switzerland)
Oil already swaped to 20/50 !
also made the rearlight for the rear windows so everybody can see "Rhowina" !!
the rear numberplate holder are under way....tuesday will be finish.....hopefully
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
-
p.p.
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Numberplate holder fixed!
switch off devise replaced with a better on....
still to do:
GREASING !!!!!!
switch off devise replaced with a better on....
still to do:
GREASING !!!!!!
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
-
p.p.
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:49 pm
- Your interest in the forum: javelin 1950 standard
- Given Name: peter
- Location: switzerland, 9320 arbon
Re: Early Javelin Restoration
did the greasing all done!!
replaced the left side indicator (brocken spring )
just got the swiss MOT "Veteranen" stamp, no MOT for 6 years..
... there were all very happy with the car..... "very nice, stunning, very good and and....."
next week i will polish the girl....
still to do:
dore panel...
rubber all around...
sills rubber
carburettors has to build up again....leaking ....
replaced the left side indicator (brocken spring )
just got the swiss MOT "Veteranen" stamp, no MOT for 6 years..
next week i will polish the girl....
still to do:
dore panel...
rubber all around...
sills rubber
carburettors has to build up again....leaking ....
owner of the jowett javelin Standard 1950 from new zealand,
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister
there is no jowett club in switzerland. flying under "Rest of the World"
me name: peter pfister