Dear Paul,
Be careful. I always mark, with a white marker pen, the alignment of the splitpin hole on the end of the axle shaft. This makes it really easy to align the slots in the nut.
I use a tubular drift that just fits over the points of the nut hexagon, and seats on the flat washer, to provide the final bedding in tap with a heavy hammer. The hammer blow does not have to be a really heavy blow. The assembly is already under the tension of the nut and flat washer.
The two mating taper surfaces MUST be clean metal surfaces. There MUST not be any grease present! Experience has taught me that a lubricated surface will create two problems:
1. In some cases, instead of bedding tightly, the slippery surfaces will allow the nut to wind the brake drum onto the axle shaft to the extent that the cast iron will split (out of sight inside the drum). It is like driving a wedge into a log.
2. If lubricated, and the securing nut has not been tightened sufficiently, the joint will soon come loose and damage to the key will result.
I would assume that you are tightening the axle nut with a 1/2" drive swivel handle. If so, as you tighten the nut, you get a feel for how tight it is becoming. There will be a point where the assembly will 'tighten-up' firmly. From this point the split pin hole should be aligned by further tightening. The size of the axle nut really justifies a 3/4" drive socket and swivel handle. Careful use of a piece of pipe on a 1/2" swivel handle will align the split pin slots with the hole.
In addition to all that, I use Loctite Antiseize on the thread of the nut and on the outer face of the heavy flat washer. This makes the assembly easier to remove in the future.
The rear brake adjuster should be assembled with smears of Castrol PH Zinc Oxide brake and clutch grease. The inner faces of the shoe webs should also be treated with this grease where they contact the supports pressed into the backplate. Furthermore, this grease should, as you say, be applied to the moving surfaces of the handbrake mechanism at the wheel cylinder.
The rear wheel cylinder assembly should be free to slide (centralize itself automatically when the brakes are applied) where it mounts to the back plate. Castrol PH Zinc Oxide grease should be applied to the sliding face of the wheel cylinder and to the clamp plate inboard of the back plate. The two nuts (1/4" UNF) are usually of the slotted type. There are also dual coil spring washers (Thackeray) and the nuts should be firmly tightened and then backed off until the wheel cylinger can slide, but is well supported. The nut split pins should be fitted at this stage. Personally, I use Nyloc nuts here, with a smear of Penrite Copper-Eze to ensure that they can be unscrewed easily in the future.
Male and female tapers? A bit sexual - but very true and apt!
Parting shot - the rear gearbox shaft and coupling companion flange must be treated in the same manner as the rear brake drum to axle shaft assemblies!
Have a wonderfu Rally - wish I could be there!
Mike Allfrey.
Javelin rear brakes
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Mike Allfrey
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TedAllen
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Hi Paul,
With regard to Mike's comment about a white marker pen, I don't know if you saw my post of a few months ago which mentioned Tippex as a good highlighter for this sort of thing. A bottle in the toolbox is invaluable....and it dries very quickly.
The other comment about male and female is, as Mike states, based on sex. Not only does it refer to tapers, etc, but you will find the terms used for brake pipe unions, spade and bullet connectors and lots of other applications in the motor trade for describing parts where one bit goes inside another.
Ted
With regard to Mike's comment about a white marker pen, I don't know if you saw my post of a few months ago which mentioned Tippex as a good highlighter for this sort of thing. A bottle in the toolbox is invaluable....and it dries very quickly.
The other comment about male and female is, as Mike states, based on sex. Not only does it refer to tapers, etc, but you will find the terms used for brake pipe unions, spade and bullet connectors and lots of other applications in the motor trade for describing parts where one bit goes inside another.
Ted
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Mike Allfrey
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Dear Pat,
I have yet to see a torque value written for a taper joint on a Jowett. As you say, it is best to tighten the nut with the wheel in place. Over the years one gets a feel for when such a nut is tight enough. My experience has been that after the initial tightening, bedding in and re-tightening, once the taper has bedded and the nut is then re-tightened to about the same tightness as before the bedding in knock, that should be sufficient - and, if the split pin hole needs alignment, further tightening should resolve this.
Using that method over the past 44 years has resulted in drums staying tight on the shaft, and being reasonably tight to remove with a suitable puller. It is important that a threaded puller has as much thread purchase as possible.
A couple of other points:
The split pin should be a snug fit in the axle sahaft, and it should be installed with the long leg towards the outer end of the axle shaft. The longer leg should then be pulled away about 45 degrees and both legs should be trimmed with side cutters flush with the flat of the nut. A split pin installed in such a manner will hold, no matter what, and is easy to remove. The split pin should NOT be bent right back on itself and hammered into place against the axle end and the flat of the nut. This is extremely unsightly and makes subsequent removal very difficult.
It should be noted that the only reason a drive key is used at the rear brake drum, is to prevent the shaft from spinning inside the bore of the brake drum - should the securing nut come loose. A good matching taper fit will drive a Jowett with ease, minus its key. We can not afford to have shafts and drums damaged due to spinning loose - hence the key.
I have written up my Full Hydraulic Brake System Technical Notes and will be sending them to Keith Clements. Can someone please comment on them?
Thankyou,
Mike Allfrey.
I have yet to see a torque value written for a taper joint on a Jowett. As you say, it is best to tighten the nut with the wheel in place. Over the years one gets a feel for when such a nut is tight enough. My experience has been that after the initial tightening, bedding in and re-tightening, once the taper has bedded and the nut is then re-tightened to about the same tightness as before the bedding in knock, that should be sufficient - and, if the split pin hole needs alignment, further tightening should resolve this.
Using that method over the past 44 years has resulted in drums staying tight on the shaft, and being reasonably tight to remove with a suitable puller. It is important that a threaded puller has as much thread purchase as possible.
A couple of other points:
The split pin should be a snug fit in the axle sahaft, and it should be installed with the long leg towards the outer end of the axle shaft. The longer leg should then be pulled away about 45 degrees and both legs should be trimmed with side cutters flush with the flat of the nut. A split pin installed in such a manner will hold, no matter what, and is easy to remove. The split pin should NOT be bent right back on itself and hammered into place against the axle end and the flat of the nut. This is extremely unsightly and makes subsequent removal very difficult.
It should be noted that the only reason a drive key is used at the rear brake drum, is to prevent the shaft from spinning inside the bore of the brake drum - should the securing nut come loose. A good matching taper fit will drive a Jowett with ease, minus its key. We can not afford to have shafts and drums damaged due to spinning loose - hence the key.
I have written up my Full Hydraulic Brake System Technical Notes and will be sending them to Keith Clements. Can someone please comment on them?
Thankyou,
Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
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Mike Allfrey
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Dear Pat,
Your concerns about dust/grit and water entry into the rear brake are laudable. But there are some concerns that arise when locking the wheel cylinder in one position.
We have to appreciate that Girling designed the brakes to enable them to self-centre within the brake drum as wear took place. If the wheel cylinder is fitted in a clean condition and with a smear of Castrol PH Zinc Oxide grease on both sides of the back plate, then, provided the parts are in good condition and the wheel cylinder securing nuts are adjusted so that a firm push will move it in its slot, dust entry should not be a problem. I always use new 1/4" UNF Nyloc nuts on all wheel cylinders. I tighten them fully and then, progressively, back them off till the cylinder needs a firm push to slide it. I do not use the "back off half a turn" method - never have, never will!
I feel that, considering the Thackeray (Thackray - which is it?) washers and slotted nuts plus the cover plate were all extra cost items, then there was an excellent reason for providing the self centring facility. Jowet, and probably Girling, were very cost conscious in those times and, thus the facility would most definitely have been warranted.
One also has to wonder about the consequences of changed brake set-up in the event of an accident?
One point about the Nyloc nuts - the locking medium also acts as a seal to prevent water ingress.
Best wishes,
Mike Allfrey.
Your concerns about dust/grit and water entry into the rear brake are laudable. But there are some concerns that arise when locking the wheel cylinder in one position.
We have to appreciate that Girling designed the brakes to enable them to self-centre within the brake drum as wear took place. If the wheel cylinder is fitted in a clean condition and with a smear of Castrol PH Zinc Oxide grease on both sides of the back plate, then, provided the parts are in good condition and the wheel cylinder securing nuts are adjusted so that a firm push will move it in its slot, dust entry should not be a problem. I always use new 1/4" UNF Nyloc nuts on all wheel cylinders. I tighten them fully and then, progressively, back them off till the cylinder needs a firm push to slide it. I do not use the "back off half a turn" method - never have, never will!
I feel that, considering the Thackeray (Thackray - which is it?) washers and slotted nuts plus the cover plate were all extra cost items, then there was an excellent reason for providing the self centring facility. Jowet, and probably Girling, were very cost conscious in those times and, thus the facility would most definitely have been warranted.
One also has to wonder about the consequences of changed brake set-up in the event of an accident?
One point about the Nyloc nuts - the locking medium also acts as a seal to prevent water ingress.
Best wishes,
Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
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Mike Allfrey
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Dear Pat,
150 lb.ft - I would have to play with my torque wrench first.
Re the piston seizure in cylinder body. In both my Jupiter and Javelin, all four pistons have seized. I have adopted the practice of not leaving the handbrake applied (for months). I park on level floor, in first gear and a block behind the wheel.
However, my Javelin now has stainless sleeves all round and this works well. I now class that improvement as a matter of course. In the Jupiter, while the car's rebuild was in progress, I found a pair of new rear wheel cylinders and left them alone - being new. Since 1998, all four rear pistons have seized and, next time it is the stainless steel sleeve treatment for these two cylinders.
I think it is more important to check the vertical position of the brake shoes, as outlined in Leo Bolter's article in Journeys By Jupiter recently. The late John Taylor made the same modification back in the early 1970s and it is still working well with club member Richard Homersham now using John's beloved Javelin. We did the rear brakes a couple of years ago and made a visual check of this other 'tappet adjustment'.
Thanks for the 'Thackray' bit. I am sure that I have read somewhere in Jowett literature the spelling 'Thackeray'. I have always been impressed with the spelling and words used in the publications issued by Jowett Cars Limited - they must have had a good proof-reader!
Regards,
Mike Allfrey.
150 lb.ft - I would have to play with my torque wrench first.
Re the piston seizure in cylinder body. In both my Jupiter and Javelin, all four pistons have seized. I have adopted the practice of not leaving the handbrake applied (for months). I park on level floor, in first gear and a block behind the wheel.
However, my Javelin now has stainless sleeves all round and this works well. I now class that improvement as a matter of course. In the Jupiter, while the car's rebuild was in progress, I found a pair of new rear wheel cylinders and left them alone - being new. Since 1998, all four rear pistons have seized and, next time it is the stainless steel sleeve treatment for these two cylinders.
I think it is more important to check the vertical position of the brake shoes, as outlined in Leo Bolter's article in Journeys By Jupiter recently. The late John Taylor made the same modification back in the early 1970s and it is still working well with club member Richard Homersham now using John's beloved Javelin. We did the rear brakes a couple of years ago and made a visual check of this other 'tappet adjustment'.
Thanks for the 'Thackray' bit. I am sure that I have read somewhere in Jowett literature the spelling 'Thackeray'. I have always been impressed with the spelling and words used in the publications issued by Jowett Cars Limited - they must have had a good proof-reader!
Regards,
Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
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paul wilks
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- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
Thanks everyone. Here I am again to drive you all mad!
I have received my new rear shoes and am expecting any time new rear wheel cylinders and new springs. Before I go any further can I confirm a number of things please which are causing me real anxiety?
Unlike the front shoes, the rear springs go from one shoe to the other. As far as I remember they go behing each shoe. Do you all agree?
As far as I understand I have to smear the inside of the adjusters and their pistons with white brake grease (Castrol PH)
I have to smear a thin coating of PH grease on the back of the rear wheel cylinders where they slide on the backplate
There seems some debate about whether or not to apply grease to the axle shaft and key where the hub slides on. So I am still not sure whether or not to apply grease! And if 'yes' what sort of grease? PH?
I am concerned re tightening the hub nut as hard as it will go and then clouting it a bit harder. Isn't there a danger of damaging the thread?
Sorry to be such a pain but I want to get it right.
Paul
I have received my new rear shoes and am expecting any time new rear wheel cylinders and new springs. Before I go any further can I confirm a number of things please which are causing me real anxiety?
Unlike the front shoes, the rear springs go from one shoe to the other. As far as I remember they go behing each shoe. Do you all agree?
As far as I understand I have to smear the inside of the adjusters and their pistons with white brake grease (Castrol PH)
I have to smear a thin coating of PH grease on the back of the rear wheel cylinders where they slide on the backplate
There seems some debate about whether or not to apply grease to the axle shaft and key where the hub slides on. So I am still not sure whether or not to apply grease! And if 'yes' what sort of grease? PH?
I am concerned re tightening the hub nut as hard as it will go and then clouting it a bit harder. Isn't there a danger of damaging the thread?
Sorry to be such a pain but I want to get it right.
Paul
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Mike Allfrey
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Dear Paul,
Fair Dinkum! What to do?
First up, you use a smear of Castrol PH Zinc Oxide (White) grease at the following places:
At the hand brake components on the wheel cylinders,
At the support pressings for the brake shoe webs,
At the toes and heels of the brake shoes,
At the tappets and threaded cone adjuster of the brake adjuster assembly,
At the face of the wheel cylinder where it contacts the brake back plate,
At the face of the dust shield where it contacts the back plate.
You do apply Penrite Copper Eze to the following:
To the threads of the setscrews securing the brake adjuster assemblies,
To the threads of the wheel cylinder mounting studs,
To the threads of the brake bleed screw nipple,
To the screw thread of the hand brake clevis pin.
YOU DO NOT APPLY ANY GREASE AT ALL TO THE AXLE SHAFT TAPER, DRIVE KEY OR BRAKE DRUM BORE!!!!
REPEAT - YOU DO NOT APPLY ANY GREASE AT ALL TO THE AXLE SHAFT TAPER, DRIVE KEY OR BRAKE DRUM BORE!!!!
YOU DO APPLY SOME CASTROL PH ZINC OXIDE GREASE TO THE THREAD IN THE AXLE SHAFT NUT, AND TO THE FACE OF THE NUT THAT CONTACTS THE HEAVY DUTY FLAT WASHER.
I DON'T KNOW YOUR PHYSICAL STRENGTH CAPABILITIES, BUT YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT DAMN TIGHT.
THEN, YOU USE A HOLLOW DRIFT (PIPE WILL DO) THAT FITS OVER THE POINTS OF THE NUT HEXAGON AND SEATS ON THE HEAVY DUTY FLAT WASHER.
NEXT, WITH A GOOD QUALITY LUMP HAMMER, YOU STRIKE THE END OF THE TUBE A SHARP BLOW. IF YOU FEAR HITTING YOUR HAND HOLDING THE DRIFT - HOLD THE HAMMER WITH BOTH HANDS!
FAIR DINKUM!
RE-TIGHTEN THE AXLE SHAFT NUT AND WHEN IT IS TIGHT, TIGHTEN FURTHER TILL A SLOT IN THE NUT ALIGNS WITHE THE SPLIT PIN HOLE IN THE AXLE SHAFT.
USE A SNUG FITTING SPLIT PIN - HARD TO FIND THESE DAYS BECAUSE THE CHINESE HAVE NOT YET LEARNT HOW TO MAKE SPLIT PINS FOR PROPER MOTOR CARS.
INSTALL THE SPLIT PIN WITH THE LONGEST LEG TOWARDS YOU. PULL IT OUT 30 TO 45 DEGREES. LEAVE THE SHORT LEG STRAIGHT. WITH A PAIR OF SIDE CUTTERS TRIM THE LEGS SO THAT BOTH LEGS ARE FLUSH WITH THE FLAT OF THE AXLE SHAFT NUT.
PLEASE NOTE THAT, IF I COME OVER FOR A NATIONAL JOWETT RALLY, REMOVE THE REAR HUB CAPS AND FIND SPLIT PIN LEGS THAT HAVE BEEN HAMMERED OVER THE AXLE SHAFT END AND BENT AROUND THE FACE OF THE NUT, I WILL ASK THE CONCOURS ORGANIZER TO DISQUALIFY THE CAR!
IF YOU FOLLOW THIS ADVICE - THE WHOLE JOB WILL BE A BOTTLER!
PRINT OFF THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND TAKE THEM OUT TO THE GARAGE WITH YOU. DO A SECOND COIPY FOR YOUR FILE,
I sincerely hope I have been of some help on the rear brake saga. I am now off to lunch, on a perfect clear blue sky day at a nice little winery 250 kilometres north east of Melbourne to enjoy a top quality glass of good Aussie plonk. Yes, we travel such distances for a good red at lunch time. I would normally take the Jupiter, but this time I have to collect 200 metres of Javelin De Luxe windscreen rubber for the Spares Officer. Thus the new Rover will get an airing and the Jupiter's envy will grow.
Good lock with the stopping bit,
Mike Allfrey
Fair Dinkum! What to do?
First up, you use a smear of Castrol PH Zinc Oxide (White) grease at the following places:
At the hand brake components on the wheel cylinders,
At the support pressings for the brake shoe webs,
At the toes and heels of the brake shoes,
At the tappets and threaded cone adjuster of the brake adjuster assembly,
At the face of the wheel cylinder where it contacts the brake back plate,
At the face of the dust shield where it contacts the back plate.
You do apply Penrite Copper Eze to the following:
To the threads of the setscrews securing the brake adjuster assemblies,
To the threads of the wheel cylinder mounting studs,
To the threads of the brake bleed screw nipple,
To the screw thread of the hand brake clevis pin.
YOU DO NOT APPLY ANY GREASE AT ALL TO THE AXLE SHAFT TAPER, DRIVE KEY OR BRAKE DRUM BORE!!!!
REPEAT - YOU DO NOT APPLY ANY GREASE AT ALL TO THE AXLE SHAFT TAPER, DRIVE KEY OR BRAKE DRUM BORE!!!!
YOU DO APPLY SOME CASTROL PH ZINC OXIDE GREASE TO THE THREAD IN THE AXLE SHAFT NUT, AND TO THE FACE OF THE NUT THAT CONTACTS THE HEAVY DUTY FLAT WASHER.
I DON'T KNOW YOUR PHYSICAL STRENGTH CAPABILITIES, BUT YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT DAMN TIGHT.
THEN, YOU USE A HOLLOW DRIFT (PIPE WILL DO) THAT FITS OVER THE POINTS OF THE NUT HEXAGON AND SEATS ON THE HEAVY DUTY FLAT WASHER.
NEXT, WITH A GOOD QUALITY LUMP HAMMER, YOU STRIKE THE END OF THE TUBE A SHARP BLOW. IF YOU FEAR HITTING YOUR HAND HOLDING THE DRIFT - HOLD THE HAMMER WITH BOTH HANDS!
FAIR DINKUM!
RE-TIGHTEN THE AXLE SHAFT NUT AND WHEN IT IS TIGHT, TIGHTEN FURTHER TILL A SLOT IN THE NUT ALIGNS WITHE THE SPLIT PIN HOLE IN THE AXLE SHAFT.
USE A SNUG FITTING SPLIT PIN - HARD TO FIND THESE DAYS BECAUSE THE CHINESE HAVE NOT YET LEARNT HOW TO MAKE SPLIT PINS FOR PROPER MOTOR CARS.
INSTALL THE SPLIT PIN WITH THE LONGEST LEG TOWARDS YOU. PULL IT OUT 30 TO 45 DEGREES. LEAVE THE SHORT LEG STRAIGHT. WITH A PAIR OF SIDE CUTTERS TRIM THE LEGS SO THAT BOTH LEGS ARE FLUSH WITH THE FLAT OF THE AXLE SHAFT NUT.
PLEASE NOTE THAT, IF I COME OVER FOR A NATIONAL JOWETT RALLY, REMOVE THE REAR HUB CAPS AND FIND SPLIT PIN LEGS THAT HAVE BEEN HAMMERED OVER THE AXLE SHAFT END AND BENT AROUND THE FACE OF THE NUT, I WILL ASK THE CONCOURS ORGANIZER TO DISQUALIFY THE CAR!
IF YOU FOLLOW THIS ADVICE - THE WHOLE JOB WILL BE A BOTTLER!
PRINT OFF THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND TAKE THEM OUT TO THE GARAGE WITH YOU. DO A SECOND COIPY FOR YOUR FILE,
I sincerely hope I have been of some help on the rear brake saga. I am now off to lunch, on a perfect clear blue sky day at a nice little winery 250 kilometres north east of Melbourne to enjoy a top quality glass of good Aussie plonk. Yes, we travel such distances for a good red at lunch time. I would normally take the Jupiter, but this time I have to collect 200 metres of Javelin De Luxe windscreen rubber for the Spares Officer. Thus the new Rover will get an airing and the Jupiter's envy will grow.
Good lock with the stopping bit,
Mike Allfrey
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
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1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
Wow Mike!
These instructions are GREAT!! I will follow them very carefully.
All the best
Paul
These instructions are GREAT!! I will follow them very carefully.
All the best
Paul
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paul wilks
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1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
My wheel cylinders arrived this morning from Jowett Spares. I only ordered them on Monday evening! This service is amazing. Thanks chaps! 
Just one thing that wasn't answered from my earlier email (sorry Mike!) - my question about those rear shoe springs.
Unlike the front shoes, the rear springs go from one shoe to the other. As far as I remember they go behing each shoe.
Do you all agree please?
Thanks
Paul
Just one thing that wasn't answered from my earlier email (sorry Mike!) - my question about those rear shoe springs.
Unlike the front shoes, the rear springs go from one shoe to the other. As far as I remember they go behing each shoe.
Do you all agree please?
Thanks
Paul
-
paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
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1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
Thanks Pat it's appreciated. At my rate of progress it will be a miracle but at least I'm getting a lot of advice and long distance support from JCC members (from all over the world!) Thing is, I could probably push it to Walton Gardens. It's just up the road!
See you there, with or without the Javelin!
Paul
See you there, with or without the Javelin!
Paul
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Forumadmin
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Tip; When fitting the shoes first mark each shoe with Tippex whether offside or nearside and whether top or bottom. Also mark the spring hole Yellow or Green. This makes it easier when replacing.
Also when fitting put the springs in first; with shoes on the ground then lift the shoes and fit the bottom one into its adjuster and cylinder slots and the top one into its adjuster. Then lever the top one over into its cylinder slot. Having had to do this many times with limited time on rallies, this I found the easiest way and less strain on the springs. Using pliers on springs weakens them.
Also when fitting put the springs in first; with shoes on the ground then lift the shoes and fit the bottom one into its adjuster and cylinder slots and the top one into its adjuster. Then lever the top one over into its cylinder slot. Having had to do this many times with limited time on rallies, this I found the easiest way and less strain on the springs. Using pliers on springs weakens them.
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Mike Allfrey
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Dear Paul,
Do as Keith says and do it with dry hands - no oil or grease on them!
Another tip, I made up a forked hook with a tee handle to straddle the shoe web and hook under the shoe metal that supports the brake lining material. This ensures that screw drivers and such can be kept for doing what they are supposed to do - screw in and unscrew screws! It also gives far better control over just how much the spring is stretched.
It also keeps fingers from being snapped at.
Go to it!
Mike Allfrey.
Do as Keith says and do it with dry hands - no oil or grease on them!
Another tip, I made up a forked hook with a tee handle to straddle the shoe web and hook under the shoe metal that supports the brake lining material. This ensures that screw drivers and such can be kept for doing what they are supposed to do - screw in and unscrew screws! It also gives far better control over just how much the spring is stretched.
It also keeps fingers from being snapped at.
Go to it!
Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
-
Mike Allfrey
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- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:14 am
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- Given Name: Michael
- Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA.
G'dday From The Sunny South,
At least it was a fabulous sunny day in Melbourne. Meanwhile there has been good rain (Yippee!) in the west of Victoria!
Today I have posted a CD with latest Technical notes that cover Full Hydraulic Brakes, per air mail to Keith Clements for posting.
In there you will find drawings of how the brake shoes and springs fit.
Trust the job is going well for you.
Incidentally folks, the red Vauxhall 30/98 behind my Jupiter in the picture is the one that appears in the Penrite advertisements in The Automobile magazine. In that ad, it is owner George Hetrel who is pulling over the cover. George is a great participant in our events and lives around the corner.
We all use Penrite oils.
Mike Allfrey.
At least it was a fabulous sunny day in Melbourne. Meanwhile there has been good rain (Yippee!) in the west of Victoria!
Today I have posted a CD with latest Technical notes that cover Full Hydraulic Brakes, per air mail to Keith Clements for posting.
In there you will find drawings of how the brake shoes and springs fit.
Trust the job is going well for you.
Incidentally folks, the red Vauxhall 30/98 behind my Jupiter in the picture is the one that appears in the Penrite advertisements in The Automobile magazine. In that ad, it is owner George Hetrel who is pulling over the cover. George is a great participant in our events and lives around the corner.
We all use Penrite oils.
Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
-
paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
Many thanks to all of you especially Mike, Pat and Keith for all your help in this 'project'
I have now thoroughly cleaned and fitted to my new wheel cylinders the handbrake mechanism and lubricated with PH grease. I have obtained Nyloc nuts to fit the cylinders to the backplate (as recommended by Mike) and I have also thoroughly cleaned the adjusters and have new brake shoes ready to fit. I am only waiting for new springs and then I'll get on with fitting to the car!
I would certainly hope that my brakes should be spot on after all this!
Many thanks
Paul
I have now thoroughly cleaned and fitted to my new wheel cylinders the handbrake mechanism and lubricated with PH grease. I have obtained Nyloc nuts to fit the cylinders to the backplate (as recommended by Mike) and I have also thoroughly cleaned the adjusters and have new brake shoes ready to fit. I am only waiting for new springs and then I'll get on with fitting to the car!
I would certainly hope that my brakes should be spot on after all this!
Many thanks
Paul
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
javelin rear brakes
Me again, sorry Mike.
You talked about using a hollow drift or piece of pipe. Have you the inner and outer diameter of the pipe you use please?
Thanks for your patience
Paul
You talked about using a hollow drift or piece of pipe. Have you the inner and outer diameter of the pipe you use please?
Thanks for your patience
Paul