Jupiter alloy radiators redux

[Srenner]

After about a decade, I'm poised to order a second run of Jupiter aluminum radiators. These are made in the USA by a top manufacturer and look very much like the original Jupiter stock radiator. They use a modern radiator cap and are plumbed for using a heater. Current price to me is US$760 each, plus shipping from Arizona to my shop in California. If I can get a few more units added to the order, the price MIGHT come down a little more. They have offered the above price based on my current order of three units, as a single radiator is US$960.

The price to anyone interested is my cost, plus the shipping cost to your location. Last time I was able to clad them in thin plywood/cardboard and send them through the mail to the UK and NZ. I seem to recall that it cost about US$60-$70, but need to check based on your location.

Please let me know as quickly as possible!
Cheers,
Scott

[Forumadmin]

I have used one of these from Scott on the Jup for many years including the 1998 Marathon in the Sahara desert. They give a lot more cooling than the standard and are much lighter. In addition, being aluminium which is the same material as most of the rest of the system, there is less corrosion in the water system.

[Andrew Henshall]

Scott, any chance you can post photos of your Jupiter alloy radiator?

I assume that they are a direct replacement; same overall package dimensions as the original, same mounting system, same inlet/outlet diameters, etc?

Does the alloy radiator have a two or three row core?

What warranty does the manufacturer provide for a radiator shipped via yourself to an owner based overseas?

I am definitely interested in ordering one depending on the cost for shipping & insurance to me in Australia.

Regards,

Andrew

[Srenner]

Radiators are meant to be a drop in replacement. Mounting brackets should line up just as original. Takes a modern 4lb cap. Requires addition of a nipple to work with a heater and the outlet is where the original is located. Has a screw in nipple supplied for the overflow at the neck, so a drain tube needs to be added.

Alloy rad 1.JPG

Alloy rad 2.JPG

Alloy Rad 3.JPG

[Srenner]

Alloy rad 4.JPG

Alloy rad 7.JPG

Alloy Rad 13.JPG

[David Kemp]

I am interested to, would need to know it is better than a standard jupiter radiator.
In Australia if a product is exported there is no sales tax, any chance of seeing if your supplier can do the same?
Also many people have suggested finding the biggest radiator I can slot into the position t
rather than use Jowett design. Any comment on this?

[Srenner]

Far superior to a 1950's radiator. Same construction as NASCAR, Drag Racing and other top shelf racing applications. Right off the bat, alloy cools 30% better for the same surface area. Radiators are estimated for the horsepower rating, so one this size can handle about 160hp. That's with a "correct" water pump system, which the Jowett lacks. I have never had an overheat racing, even in hot weather, although I do have an electric fan behind the rad (no stock fan) I can switch on to pull air when the day is hot. Not once has it boiled, steamed or failed. I do not run a closed system, so it will push out water and not pull it back. In a street car, adding an overflow tank allows the rad to pull the water back, same as a modern car.

You can get a thicker core, but given the chassis width and gearbox shift mechanism, you can not go wider or lower. There is about 1.5 inches or so above the rad in the stock position, but not worth the effort in my book. Proper shrouding helps shunt the air into rad by not allowing it to pass beside or over the rad.

Please note that the header tank is smaller than stock and does not extend forward as the original does. This means getting slightly longer upper hoses.

As for taxes, there is no applicable tax for me as not purchased in California. So no taxes apply from my end, but duties and taxes might apply to you at the border in Oz. No idea on that.

[Andrew Henshall]

Hi Scott,

I'm still very interested. Re freight costs: firstly from AZ to CA. I guess the shipping cost per radiator will depend on the number you end up ordering as you will probably ship them all in one shipment from AZ to CA correct?

Re cost for freight & insurance for one radiator to Australia, are you willing to get a quote from your end; rather than me trying to arrange it from here? I have had a few small items shipped from the USA previously, and many items (including several large items) from the UK, and usually use air freight (more reliable than sea freight). The three stainless steel Jupiter exhaust systems I purchased from the UK this year came by sea of course. Do you have a preferred carrier for international air freight?

Regards,

Andrew

[Srenner]

The last order was done in 2008, so the pricing on everything has gone up a bit from what I remembered. I need to learn not to prejudice things with old information!

Here's the breakdown: Radiator US$760, ship to me $47 per radiator in its own box (my calc says $32; so getting billed for the box and isolating foam); after narrowing and shortening the shipping box, a radiator can be sent to OZ via USPS mail service 3 to 5 day delivery for $175. Any insurance for loss or damage is extra. Duties and taxes at the receiving end are the buyers responsibility. I have to enter a purchase price on the US Postal Custom form and that paperwork will accompany the shipment. Any claims for damage will reference the value on the paperwork. I advise listing the full value.

These are made by Ron Davis Radiators in Glendale, AZ. They have a website and a stellar reputation. I need to ask if they can drop ship internationally. They use UPS here in the US and my account with UPS shows about $400 if I ship that way. Another alternative is to use a consolidator, but I do not have one at present.

Please let me know if this works. I have two confirmed and one waffling and the price is based on an order of 3 minimum.
Cheers

[Frank Woolley]

Scott
I am interested in one of these aluminum radiators.
You mention using a electric fan, was this in addition to the standard fan or not.
Regards - frank Woolley - UK

[Keith Clements]

Hi Frank. I found the mechanical fan was not required on most occasions. But I did carry one in the spare wheel just in case. I could fit with rad in place with a notch cut out of the tapered nut.

Now I have a variable pitch mechanical fan. If you run without mechanical you will need an alternator when doing a lot of stop and start driving in traffic in hot weather.

With 30% more cooling from the aly rad, even if there is moderate forward motion in below 30 c air temp you should not need the electric fan working, assuming you have proper baffles around the rad to force the air through. Add a decent oil cooler that does not heat the air up before it goes through the water rad and you can even withstand higher temps, hence my oil cooler above the gearbox.

[Frank Woolley]

Thanks Keith for the information regarding fitting of an electric fan.
Scott
I wish to order one of your Aluminum Radiators. Please advise order requirements.

[Srenner]

Hello Frank:

Great, I think you will find the alloy rad works rather well. I read Mr. Clements recommends an electric fan and while I do have one on my Jupiter, I do not always have it switched on. My thinking is that the alloy rad and the original fan would still be more cooling than the factory arrangement. Also, I do not run an alternator; I have a stock dynamo with an electric fan and one Type 26 12v battery rated at 520 cold cranking amps ( this is a very good fit in one of the battery bins). That said, I rarely drive any distance at night with the lights and fan running, so while my long term experience has been positive, it is not conclusive. When in doubt, a belt and braces will certainly keep one's trousers up!

Okay, I need to get one last response confirmed and we're ready to go. As for payment, In the past we have usually done wire transfers or I coerced Mr. Clements into holding onto payments in sterling.There is a service that would let me take credit cards,but I need to study that one to see if it will work.

We are still a number of days away from ordering, but I will post here when it's time to pull the trigger.

Cheers
Scott

Just re-read this and I think I'll take the car out and watch the amp gauge with everything on. Last night drive was a 13 mile spin with a lady in the car and I have to admit I wasn't watching the gauges.

[Keith Clements]

The amps taken by the electric fan, lights and more importantly the windscreen wiper add up to a lot more than the dynamo can push out unless you have LED lights, a low wattage fan and a really good (modified) wiper system. You will find the wiper grinds to a halt first. However, it is unlikely you will need all three for prolonged periods except on a night rally or thunderstorm or fog in the summer. With the ally rad it is even more unlikely. The other issue with the dynamo is that it does need revs to produce the watts, so any slow driving in traffic exacerbates the situation.

[Forumadmin]

One small issue I had with the rad was the need to have an adaptor for the temperature bulb.