I have oil collecting on top of the engine and have sucessfully stopped the leak from the oil pressure gauge take off by replacing that short copper piece with nylon right up to the drivers side where it connects to the solid pipe to the gauge.
This is not the full cure and the oil seems to weep somewhere from the top join or a bolt. Hard to tell as it is under the oil filter. Do not think it is the filter or gasket at back of timing cover. I am going to remove the screw on oil filter that will allow me to remove a a bolt in the vicinity of he leak and smoother it in gasket maker and replace it. If it is not the bolt but the actual joint itself does anyone have any ideas on an external cure for a weep in this top crankcase joint?
Oil on top of engine
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Alan Stanley
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:25 am
- Your interest in the forum: Nice Javelin, Concours Jupiter, half share in Jowett 10 slowly being restored. Third share in Bradford six light under restoration
- Given Name: Alan
- Location: Aucjkland, New Zealand
- Contact:
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Alan Stanley
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:25 am
- Your interest in the forum: Nice Javelin, Concours Jupiter, half share in Jowett 10 slowly being restored. Third share in Bradford six light under restoration
- Given Name: Alan
- Location: Aucjkland, New Zealand
- Contact:
Thanks Rob I have read the stuff below about "Oil leaks from rear timing cover", but mine is not this "famous" leak. There is mention of oil comingup through the crankcase joint but no suggested remedy, all the advice is about the rear timing cover gasket.
So I am still seeking replies.
So I am still seeking replies.
Last edited by Alan Stanley on Sat Mar 24, 2007 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Leo Bolter
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:32 am
- Your interest in the forum: Proud owner of:
1 x 1951 Jowett Jupiter
1 x 1952 LE Velocette
1 x 1952 Jowett Bradford
2 x 1982 Princess 2 litre - Location: R. D. 2, Palmerston North, 4472, New Zealand.
Alan.
I have also done essentially the same "trick" to fix a oil leak at the top crankcase joint as Pat describes above, with spectacular success.
The only differences are that I made sure the area was cleaned to be free of dirt (which I'm sure Pat would have taken for read, in the above) before I applied a partial vacuum to the crankcase by using an old refrigerator compressor attached to the crankcase ventilation valve, having previously blocked off the pushrod vents. Then the the cleaning solvent (CRC Contact Cleaner) was applied several times to clear any oil between the joint faces.
After it was thought the solvent would have had time to have evaporated completely, a squirt of the appropriated Loctite Primer/accelerator was given to the outside of the problem area and the very fluid "Wickin" (Grade 290? . . . it was a long time ago!) type Locktite product was applied. I remember the fluid being sucked into the joint amazingly quickly . . . .
At that point the vacuum was disconnected and time as given for the product to cure. The procedure was repeated until the wicking in under partial vacuum no longer occurred.
Locktite Gasket Maker is essential under the heads of the bolts and nuts also.
Result: no oil leak!
Cranking the engine by hand to ascertain the camshaft wasn't stuck is a brilliant suggestion, Pat . . . . I didn't think of that!
Alan, Give me a phone call if there's anything that needs further discussion . . . .
Leo
I have also done essentially the same "trick" to fix a oil leak at the top crankcase joint as Pat describes above, with spectacular success.
The only differences are that I made sure the area was cleaned to be free of dirt (which I'm sure Pat would have taken for read, in the above) before I applied a partial vacuum to the crankcase by using an old refrigerator compressor attached to the crankcase ventilation valve, having previously blocked off the pushrod vents. Then the the cleaning solvent (CRC Contact Cleaner) was applied several times to clear any oil between the joint faces.
After it was thought the solvent would have had time to have evaporated completely, a squirt of the appropriated Loctite Primer/accelerator was given to the outside of the problem area and the very fluid "Wickin" (Grade 290? . . . it was a long time ago!) type Locktite product was applied. I remember the fluid being sucked into the joint amazingly quickly . . . .
At that point the vacuum was disconnected and time as given for the product to cure. The procedure was repeated until the wicking in under partial vacuum no longer occurred.
Locktite Gasket Maker is essential under the heads of the bolts and nuts also.
Result: no oil leak!
Cranking the engine by hand to ascertain the camshaft wasn't stuck is a brilliant suggestion, Pat . . . . I didn't think of that!
Alan, Give me a phone call if there's anything that needs further discussion . . . .
Leo
R. Leo Bolter,
Palmerston North,
New Zealand.
JCC of NZ - Member No 0741.
JOAC - Member No 0161
Car: Jupiter (E1-SA-513-R)
Skype name = jupiter1951
Messenger name = r.l.bolter"at"massey.ac.nz
Palmerston North,
New Zealand.
JCC of NZ - Member No 0741.
JOAC - Member No 0161
Car: Jupiter (E1-SA-513-R)
Skype name = jupiter1951
Messenger name = r.l.bolter"at"massey.ac.nz